Ballacraine

I did mine following Paul's plan of attack. It worked well. One wrinkle to bear in mind if you are fitting a twin plate unit is that the clutch centre needs to be from a V11 twin plate 6 Speeder.... A clutch centre from 5 speed units will not fit as are a different diameter shaft. Nige.

Hhhmmm, Not really.... All I can suggest is have a look on their website & see what is still available... www.steam-packet.com If you are thinking TT I would say chances are slim to non-existant now. There is always the Southern100 in July and the Manx GP in August though. Nige.

Sounds like a fair solution. Hope your repair work is progressing OK, Andy. Nige.

HHHmmmm, Not for me....... It looks a like the break dancing Citroen from the 'Alive with Technology' ads. It would be waaayyyy too tall for me anyway.... I like the wheels though Nige.

Aye, I would agree with you on the S3 bit...I had one through the eighties and early nineties. I missed it so much I painted my V11 with the chevrons. Nige.

I think this answers all those questions! http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/BREMBO-RADIAL-RACING...1QQcmdZViewItem Nige.

Thanks very much, Folks! Just ordered 2 quarts. Nige

This definitely sounds a good move......... One query though............... Is it a good idea for low mileage transmissions / bevel boxes? Should they be run in (broken in) first? If so what mileage would be appropriate? Nige.

Aye, that is often the way of things. Seriously though, after serving time on a T500 Suzuki, I vowed I would never have an under braked motorcycle again.............. If you never had the pleasure, I can tell you retardation had to be commenced as an obstacle hove into view appearing on the horizon!! Not so much a brake light at the back...More of 'I am trying to stop...Honest!' lamp! Besides I wanted to put the Scura front master cylinder on the Spag. Wes. for the dual disc upgrade! Nige.

Here is what I did. http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...ic=7806&hl= Nige

1100rpm It was lower but was hunting so I took it up from c. 900rpm. It sounds happier now! Nige.

I will look forward to that, Andy Drop me a PM or e-mither before you come over then. Nige.

TBH There is little difference, I can't remember the exact figures, although I did weigh them. For a race bike there may be some benefit...For a road bike not. I must admit I like the action of the original single plate Scura clutch and was loath to consider changing it. I felt it was a time bomb waiting, so I made the effort to change it and was glad I did. Road going, seat of pants comparison before and after? Before: Original was very sharp on drive uptake.....Not a problem, but worth knowing about before the first launch! Loved the revvy (for a large V twin shaftie) nature it gave the engine. The clatter in neutral was disconcerting, even knowing that it was transmission backlash due to hunting at tickover rather than clutch chatter as such, and the shock loading would not have helped the cause of the alloy flywheel. After installing 10 Spring V10 Clutch assembly: Tickover smoother (slightly heavier flywheel helps) Take up not quite as sharp. Almost as rev happy as original unit. Which surprised me some. Verdict. Much prefer the V10 unit now installed. Nige.

Well, I have to admit I upgraded to a radial master cylinder. I will try and give a word picture of the benefit...... The piston actuation on a 'normal' front master cylinder has a rotary action. It pivots and the end of the lever actuataes the piston 90 degrees from the direction of pull. A radial Master cylinder has a threaded plunger which is on the other side (right) of the lever pivot. When the lever is pulled the piston is displaced in the same plane as the lever movement. Perversely, it gives a linear action compared to the 'normal' radial pivoting action of the lever operation. I hope that makes some seinse. I have to admit, it has improved feel and power on the Scura. Nige.

Hhmmm Well looking at that, I'm guessing you have rounded the hex flats of the allen head rather than actually stripped any thread? If this is the case I would CAREFULLY try and drift it out. (sic) Never use an extractor (easy out? ) They are the work of Satan. ( They are very hard and brittle...If they do not work, which happens quite often they will shear off, and you have a much worse situation). If you have not done this before, you need a punch and hammer. Make a fairly deep indentation on the periphery of the remaining head. Using this as a location drift it anti-clockwise. It should free off quite quickly. If this fails I would drill the head off and attack the remainder of the bolt when you can get at it better. Then you are probably looking at penetrating oil and molegrips. HTH Nige

Interesting..... You are using this without additional moly additive then? How about the gearbox? TIA Nige.

Very poor design IMO. It would probably be fine in a race bike that gets torn down regularly, but it really is not suited to a road bike application. Too fragile. I think there are a variety of contributory factors, most of which have been put forward on a lot of threads on this subject. I don't want to try to re-iterate all of them here as I am bound to miss a few out The ones that spring to my mind just now are: The bolts may not have been correctly torqued at the initial assembly stage. ( Incorrectly calibrated torque wrenches or Luigi coming back after dinner with vino! ) The cross sectional area around the boss is not generous. Aluminium may not be the best material to make a flywheel out of anyway? (Discuss! ) The alloy may be subject to creepage, allowing the bolts to work loose. Contributory factor? Tickover set too low, leading to hunting. This not only adds to the single dry plate clatter, it may help shake those bolts loose? Once the bolts are loosened off some, the rattle gets worse leading to fracture as the alloy flywheel crashes against the bolts?? Mine had a low tickover when I bought it.......I adjusted it. When I dismantled to replace the clutch the bolts were not as tight as I was expecting and penetrant crack detection of the flywheel after strip down showed the start of cracks around the bolt holes. This was at less than 7,000miles. Nige. The one you mention could well be one too.

One of the Scorpion Works Ti cans I got off ebay had fairly bad grazing from a falling over in the paddock whoopsie. I did exactly what Ratchet has posted earlier in this thread. I just buffed both cans on a buffing wheel with differing grades of rouge. You'd never know! Nige.

Engine off the front is the way to go. Nige. Sometimes the reference to 'Clutch' is an abbreviation for 'Clutch Assembly'....I think that may cause some confusion. The flywheel is aluminium and the single plate clutch basket is bolted to it. It is the flywheel that is the Achilles Heel. Nige.

It is not so much that the unit fails. It is the spectacular termination that gives cause for concern. I replaced mine at under 7,000 miles. I had the flywheel crack detected. There were hairline cracks around the bolt holes. It was on the road to failure. It only seems to be the Scura model that is effected. I still reckon it is a 'when' rather than 'if.' Nige.

Another vote for that.... I have a V10 Centauro clutch in mine. I really like it..... I got mine from Pete at Reboot. www.rebootguzzispares.com You will need a clutch centre from a twin plater V11 BTW Nige.

Finally..... Couldn't wait for a sunny day...... So took pics tonight when I got back from work. I'm quite chuffed with the way it turned out. I was aiming for the mid 1970s...Think I overshot some....looks more mid 1950's in style to me. Nige.

So how are you supposed to maintain it during storage? Nige.

Yes, us Scuristi are at least fortunate in that respect! Nige.