andy york

why is it so hard for me to find the dates for XX ? Oh ...I forgot its my birthright

I sure wish I had been around when you were "rippin it". are those BPR6's? I must say those are a couple of the worst looking plugs I have seen in what I thought was a good running engine. Even when I miss my "normal" plug change, they never looked that bad. I also run a heat range colder. After I was stuck in downtown traffic in 95 deg heat, I decided I would gladly take the ticket for riding the shoulder. fast walking pace...just to keep a little air flowing over the heads. I reckon you are the new mileage champ. I haven't been on mine in awhile.

Kinda looks like the left throttle body may have burped itself off the intake rubber. just trying the simple things first.

Looking for a set of clip-on bar risers for V11 LeMans...need up and back. gettin old aint for pussies Andy

If it's still for sale ....I'll take it. pm me the particulars Andy York

you might try hydraulics. Use your grease gun on the zero fitting and see if you can get it to move. If so , just remember to clean out some of the grease so you put it back together

'For suspension assurances, it was worth it to me to let a pro do it.' Agreed. Somewhere in my toolbox is my certificate from Ohlins claiming I am qualified to work on Ohlins forks and shocks. I did the week long Training in Hendersonville at the "factory"( usa headquarters). Yes you can try it yourself but without special tools there is a really good chance of f****** it up. I to choose to take it to someone that does this day in and day out.

Is this the Fast bike located in Henderson NC ? If the same guys are still working it they were top notch. the guy that started it worked for road race teams since he was a teenager.Maybe 1 or 2 of the guys came from Ohlins located in the same town. Now would be the time because once late spring gets here they will more than likely be going to the races. They had to turn me down last year because of there race schedule. They recommended GMD Computrac in Fairmont GA. I was pleased with the result even though it was a tad expensive. I took the forks and the shock to them. New seals- oil- bushings- and something broken on the rear shock adjuster.

If in fact it is the rear bearing on the Output shaft( the one the driveshaft connects to), that bearing Guzzi part #92201141 ( might be an old number ) - it is a 40 x 68 x 15 ball bearing. Any good bearing house should be able to get them. easy access to parts diagrams on Harpers web site Now that I think about it I might have one in my favorite draw. I will have to go look

Big bearings are not listed on that parts page. Only bearings on there are the ones that go on each shaft that the gears themselves actually rotate on.

Is that the Input shaft ? Agreed that is an odd failure. As the experts have said, clean clean clean, make sure there is no loose bits in there, new bearing , reassemble and ride. Andy

But it has stopped weeping . . . (for now) . . . I have one if you need it

Sorry ....I don't have much of a ride report yet. Only about 75 miles right after completion to meet Docc for lunch. since then its been like 100 degrees down here for way to long. -Noise/gear whine...I can't hear that much on the road. full face helmet and ear plugs. -standing beside the bike idling... um ...I know what I'm listening for and can barely hear the gears against the rattling clutch and the Ti-cans. - the hic-cup... seems better but I can still detect a little something ...not as bad as a hic-cup ... I've always thought my bike ran rather well and would hold its own against most any other stock Guzzi. that's all for now Andy

WOW !!! and that's why I do it !

have you tried the duck dealer? mid 90's 900 SS comes to mind with 40mm marz.

you need something with 52 mm od my old forks are 40mm might need to go to the hardware store and measure some PVC pipe

Seeing as how you have a LeMans it could be a little more involved than any of the other V11 models. Have you ever had the fairing off ? Thats the easy part ....10 bolts and its off. I was going to write this up but decided against it. It can be a bit intimidating. If you are going to be crawling around on the floor, your gonna hate this job. If you have a lift you will just learn some new words.. I think the front triangle frame needs to come out because of the horn and voltage reg mountings might block access to the top of the cover. make sure you have a very good set of Allen sockets and make sure you have a good bite when loosening the fasteners. when you get closer to doing the job let us know. I have done this quite a few times

That caliper has been seriously overheated. If you can't find new or NOS you might try the Ebay. I believe some of the Ducati's of our vintage used the same caliper. No telling how much upcharge for that name but you still might find a new one at a Duc dealer.

Update....engine runs good stationary. 150 psi comp on both cylinders. It will be a bit before a ride report. fork seals have gone father south than me. shock seals seem to have gone on a trip with the forks. Clutch slave won't hold pressure. Guess I have neglected the old girl. She needs a couple of Spa days and should be good to go

engine in frame. I did pull the front wheel to get the front triangle sub-frame out. I don't mind the extra work if it gives me a nice panoramic view of what I'm doing. It also allows me to get in there and clean. I am wondering what to do about the empty holes where the OE chain tensioner bolted on. Facing the motor, the bolt on the left I am thinking about leaving out. the bolt on the right actually goes through the front main bearing. I think I will put a short bolt so I can torque it back same as the other main bearing bolts. engine rotates freely over and over.

no sludge in my motor not having a new set of sprockets to compare, I could see some wear....nothing worthy of you-tube. I'm very pleased with the look of everything after 130,000 miles

I haven't rotated it over yet....these engines turn easy with no plugs in. TDC ....S in the flywheel hole...dots line up ....dinner .. then I will go rotate it a couple times. this is some really nice kit. I had no appreciable wear on the cam thrust bearing....the old one measured 7mm thick and the new one was 7mm thick. lock washer behind oil pump nut was broken in two.?

This seems mo better

Well well well Houston I have a conundrum. Crank and cam gears aligned upon disassembly. This is where I'm at cam sprocket is on the dowel pin...crank sprocket is on the woodruff keyway. what to do....

Mine where in the mail today. Very nicely done! although I almost had to get the chainsaw out to open box. just kidding ....and a big thanks to Joe