andy york

Ya'll should let somebody know when u's passion through. We know where to take ya for eats. Maybe a few backroads too !!!

By golly, you have an idea there. Although the clutch line is already braided steel, it does not have a banjo at the slave cylinder end. Just need to get a new hose made up with the right banjos on both ends. thanks andy

Hi I could be wrong ... the Ohlins forks have the hollow axle that also has a nut to Fasten it. i.e.... ducati The Marzoc"s have an axle that feeds from left to right and screws into the right fork lower. That part # should be GU 01614190 I am unaware of a 3rd option sorry ... can't put my hands on my old one andy

OK New clutch plates and springs arrived. Old clutch plates measured 7.45mm and 7.43mm old springs ....28 mm free length New clutch plates measure 8.13mm and 8.14mm new springs ...29 mm free length appears to be two different styles of springs new spring on the left in picture anyway on to the clutch slave.Brand new from Moto Guzzi. It Leaks Somehow it is machined different where the hydraulic hose screws in. Its like I can't get it tight enough....anyway ....Scud sent an extra he had and it works fine.(Thanks) Tranny is in...just need to fettle with some stuff tomorrow as I reassemble. andy

All thoughts, insights, speculation, or ridicule welcome. What could be going on inside the tranny to produce those symptoms? No ridicule. It is very hard to put into words what is going on. There is a lot of slop/freeplay in the transmission.Under full load its pushing the gear stacks farther away for the next gear shift. A slight off throttle will "relax" the the gear stack and make it easier to engage the next gear. Do you have Chucks plate on the shift mechanism ? I would have thought that this would give more leverage for the shift lever and eliminate this problem. ​I don't really know if you can shim these boxes like the old 5 speeds. Maybe Pete will chime in here. andy

Oil pressure sending unit-wire still attached?

pull it back apart and make sure only one gasket is on the oil filter or check the old filter and see if it has a gasket on it. if its not on the filter and not in the drain pan .....well andy

Wow.... I hate to hear that. I'm on the road for about 10 more days. When I get home I'm going to check the spring pressure on all the ones I have ....against a new set i ordered. I also ordered a set of stock plates..(.just for measuring purposes) lol. Gut feeling here....I just don't think you loose that much spring pressure...or I don't....cause I am generally always moving . My LeMans is definitely not a city bike. Sweetie says the slave cylinder is on the kitchen table....so I will be ready for some "garage" time when I get home. I have done the job both ways ...crabbing the back and pulling the motor. Its a wash to me ..although if the clutch slave had not been bad, I would have pulled the motor for the clutch ....then again, if it were not for the slave I would not be doing any of this later andy

Thats why we have this forum. Having an old age moment and forgot all about Harpers. Yes...they have one on the shelf and it is now mine Thanks guys

Everything seems to have been covered .....but..... has it back fired? Make sure both intake rubbers are mounted securely on the throttle bodies and that they in turn are fully seated on the intake manifold. andy

and #2 and i also don't know why the site turns everything 90* anyway there is a shim first (on reassembly) then the bearing assembly then the castled nut ...of which the seal goes inside and the 0-ring goes in the groove on the OD of the castle nut then the spacer and finally the 36 mm nut I fit the seal to the inside of the castle nut and the o-ring into the groove. generously coating each with a film of grease. then install the castle nut. then lube the spacer up and gently push it home.... it has to go through the seal....so be careful. then install the 36 mm nut and torque to 180 -200 Nm

So here are some pics of the assembly

OK Gents ... Guzzi O.E. clutch slave cylinders are NLA. as per Daniel at Moto International. so ...in order to "fix it" I will have to pound the pavement and see if I can find some seals. Scud ... how much do you want for your old one? Lemme know andy

I'm running the latest greatest Michelin Pilot Road. When it comes to rubber on the ground, I don't skimp. I want the latest greatest technology holding my big ass on the road. i can manage to 10k or a bit more out of a rear but it depends on what I am doing. For me that is about the limit. If you are loaded down with gear for a long tour it will be less. I use two hard bags, a tank bag, and a center bag behind me. Tools, wet gear, etc....you will be surprised how much all that crap weighs. Its been a few years, but I have also had to pick up new shoes on the road. I was traveling in the boonies and had to buy one. A Moto what? they had one and I said I would help get the wheel off. All is well that ends well. In todays society of lawyers and Liability, might need to do a little more planning. I have also been told that "we can sell ya the tire but we can't put it on. And you can't do it in the parking lot. we can only work on the brands we sell." I've run Bridgestone,Metzler,Michelin,Pirelli ....I like the Bridgestones and Michelins. And yes, Our street tire options are better than the Goodyears they ran on TZ750's. andy

anyone ever find new u-joints for our spine frame 6-speeders? I know ...if it ain't broke ..... to much time on my hands waiting for clutch slave.... andy

I' will try and get some pictures up within a day

Watched first video I got nothing second video ...everything appears normal to me ....always going to have a bit of play with gears,shafts, and meshing together. even straight cut gears have a little bit of "play" in the box. The unfortunate way to check the gears is to disassemble the box so you can check the splines on the shafts and gears. andy

Sorry I just read your post again. clean the inside threads where the ring nut is. clean real good. possibly also blow out with air. You should be able to take a pin punch and tap the ring nut loose. might take a few hard hits to get it moving then it should come off with your fingers. Then the big nut comes off with the above procedure. andy

Hi Roberto, No special tools required. Just a socket to fit the nut and a long cheater bar. If yours is anything like mine, I have to loosen the nut while the diff is still mounted on the bike. I have never gotten mine loose with air gun. It just batters the gears against each other. I will have to look up the torque spec,but as I recall it is very high when compared to most things on the bike........this is my unfortunate disassembly process... 1 - remove rear wheel 2 - remove rear diff and disassemble rear portion of driveshaft and remove completely 3 - reinstall rear diff and rear wheel 4 - socket on nut w/long persuader bar ratchet handle( i use an old fork tube) bike needs to be on ground and maybe a 2nd person to apply rear brake while you try and loosen nut. 5 - disassemble again-fix leak-reassemble in reverse order best of luck. It really is not hard to do but sometimes you think you need godzilla to that nut loose andy

Well ....um... Thank you ? Don't know if I'm all that but I definitely don't fit into the poser category. maybe I will have "something" running by the morn and maybe see ya in the "fork" andy

I did ...bout 10 years ago there still there and seem to be OK andy

And I really was not trying to be cynical about it. I will be the first in line to say something doesn't look right or should not be done. I will say that 14 years ago I did not have an extra grand laying around to buy a new ring and pinion set. I also never thought of breaking a tooth off. andy

That about sums it up ....cept Flywheel bolted to crank...teeth around the inside perimeter push rod cup goes in center of flywheel spring plate...10 springs around the circumference / horizontal to the "vertical mounting "spring plate " springs have to fit in "holes" on the flywheel and spring plate teeth on the outer circumference clutch disc 1...teeth on the inner circle to mesh with input shaft hub intermediate plate .... teeth on the perimeter clutch disc 2 ....same as 1 Ring gear for starter...bolts to flywheel / also used as pressure plate ? so there are just 3 pieces that have the ability to rattle. andy

I honestly think it left the factory that way.I may have been a little vague. I first noticed this,oh ,say, 2003... when I had my first weeping of the rear drive. Upon disassembly,that is what I discovered. And that was probably 80 to 90 k ago. no metal or swarf in lube....ever. I did reset the gear depth a bit back then. Not trying to push my luck, I just always find it amazing how "bad" something can be mechanically and still function andy

have to look close to see it. been that way for about 90k. never find any material in the oil when I change it. I'll keep on riding . andy