andy york

maybe now

Had a small weeping (annoying) rear diff leak. pull it all apart, fixed it. What the pictures show me is that the deterioration has not gotten any worse. Granted, I found this wit about 30k on the bike. Had it all Micropolished, and still going strong.

I think your "concern" is unfounded. I also think A low idle or high idle is totally irrelevant. Mine has been at about 900 rpm for close to 100k of the 120 k on the bike. I will say that I avoid traffic and stop and go travel at all costs ( ). For me, riding is moving and making the odometer go roundy round.(ahem) not that anyone here would know anything about that.( sorry....only a couple here know me and will understand that) LMAO. Anyway reckon I can move on to other things till the slave cylinder gets here. And Docc....you may need to visit with your new found computer skills I will start a new topic for the next pictures andy

Maybe just a very small amount of wear on the input shaft spline. .010 maybe. Other wise everything appears good.

oops

3 for 3

2 for 2 ?

maybe ?

Hi With the engine running pull the clutch in. Does it get quite? diminish ? Then release the clutch ....marbles back ? all is ok would be my guess. 120k on mine and I still have material left on the discs... there are 2 of them. Unless it was really abused. As for shifting, keep the fluid changed and use a good grade of whatever snake oil you prefer. I use Sheaffers synthetic myself. I'm sure others will chime in on the snake oil. There is a lot of stuff riding around on a splined hub that rattles like crazy sometimes keep us updated andy

thats correct... none at all ....no bumps,ridges,gouges,unevenness....just dirty. Oh no dampness...no oil can't post pictures never have been able to

Well. Measured the clutch discs....7.45 mm - both of them. I don't know what starting thickness is but I am impressed. I thought surely with 120k it was really close to being used up. Material to the rivet is about 2.5 mm. I figure at least another season on these discs. Flywheel looks good... no wear on the teeth....everything straight and flat.... no discoloration... Guess I will get a new slave cylinder and button it back up. I would be curious to try a lighted flywheel and ring gear from Guzzi power. Don't think I need to spend that kinda coin though. Now for a good cleaning

Well, you will just have to come over and look at it its not out yet i'll let ya know

The clutch is not slipping ....Yet. I know how things in my world usually run .....fix this problem-head out on a trip in a month-clutch starts slipping- have to go back in again. So I will attempt to ward off fate and just do it now. I will be very happy to have 120k out of the OE equipment. The biggest plus ..it will keep me in the garage and out of the house for awhile andy

had not planned on it. I went in through the backside. Tranny still bolted up....although I am seriously thinking on putting a new clutch and assorted hardware in. those clutch disc's have got to be getting thin.... Hmmm.....guess this small headache just turned into some major updating Thanks for the offer. it looks like a new unit is 60-70 bucks, so I will probably just bite the bullet. looks like I'm gonna drop some serious coin for the clutch... lol Oh well Fun isn't cheap andy

OK let me know interesting ... my slave piston is a composite material ....non metallic thanks andy

wish it where that easy. already disassembled- won't hold pressure-pushing a little fluid past the seals. kinda of a odd little fellow...has a round o-ring and a flat/square shaped o-ring similar to a brake caliper.. ah hah maybe I'll measure some brake pistons in the morn lol

hope everyone got a little ride in today. I would have cept when I went to leave ...no clutch. anyone found replacement seals for the Grimco slave cylinder on the back of the tranny? First glance at MG cycle doesn't show anything. I reckon 120k on original is not to bad Oh well .... still digging andy

there should never be a "no-start" in middle TN LAMO andy

I like the 180 on the LeMans....course, I like the 3.50 x 18 on my V7 sport ... to bad I can't use all the tire on either one of them andy

No need to go with cast iron. They just rust real easy. I went with the new Brembo " T-Rotors". Pricey ...but...I to like to brake hard. My only problem with used rotors ....how too be sure they are not bent.... doesn't take much runout to loose braking power. andy

schaeffer oils 167 full synthetic

I have nothing to give to this topic ....other than my laughter. " Shady Valley"..... I know it well only person i know that received a citation at the top of the mountain and the bottom of the mountain ME !!!

Hi Chuck, Please put me on the standby list also... thanks andy

Sounds like a plan to me. This is just me, but I would put in new seals( input and output), maybe there is an o-ring behind the input shaft hub, the star washer that goes on before the nut. Hate to go through all this and find out you nicked a seal. i will send input hub wrench, couple of sockets for hub nut. i have the tools to hold the case in vise and the intermediate plate in a vise also. will try and email some pics to ya. I don't seem to be smart enough to resize my pictures to fit here

So ... let me get caught up A: tranny is out and the back cover is off B: Then the intermediate plate w/shafts was pulled out Unless you just want to disassemble the shafts there is really no reason to. Clean everything well, look at the inside of the case for cracks or a source for the leak. could be that it just plain ol lost its seal. A fastener could have been a little loose. anyway I use yamabond most of the time. you may want something that will set a little slower for the tranny cause its not gonna go back together lickity split. . just be sure and let the stuff cure for a day or overnight before you add lube. I can write a small dissertation on these things. So, rather than babble on, I will wait for more specific questions. I also have one apart in the shop if I need to get touchy feely with the thing. got your note and will touch base before shipping