andy york

OK give me another spot to test this from. Mine is 2002 model, manual fuel petcock. I bypassed the side stand and clutch switiches years ago. fuel pump is in the tail. Maybe this has to to do with the starter button sometimes not working. sometimes the button will not work but I can jumpstart the solenoid with a screwdriver lol gotta love it

Cold means ambient temp. Old Porsche's require Cold engine to adjust valves. Rocker arm adjustment VW bugs are to be done cold also.

seems like every time I have electrical issues, it means the voltage regulator is about to shat all over itself

blimey I guess it is a whole Saturday and a couple of 6 packs to wire less to all the relays. So I wired up a little test LED but i surely don't know an easy way to stab in to a relay circuit. any tricks those in the know would like to share. I think I want to start with the ECU relay. It does not Spit and sputter as running out of fuel will do. Last time I checked the ignition key wiring it was A ok. Main 30 fuse does not appear to be heating up . could be she doesn't want a mount in this kinda heat !!!! been wringing wet all day !!

no news yet I'll get back to it soon later

what do you imagine is getting hot enough to shut the engine down ? this happened 3 times on a 20 mile ride yesterday evening. 1 - was not even 1 mile from the house. quick hiccup - recovered on its own 2 - Hit the freeway , rolling along , its like someone hits the kill switch. no quick recovery . get to the side and pop the seat. cycle the key - relays working but seems hot - fuel pump working put seat on and it fires right up 3 - in town and some traffic - like the kill switch again- pull in a parking lot -pop the seat- reals clicking but it does feel hot - fuel pump working (not hot ) - put seat on and it fires up. 4 - 2 hours later its dark and I'm headed home - it coughed 1 time but made it home with no more problems. don't really think the fuel pump is the issue since it is under the seat. It feels electrical to me. I must admit I did not change all my relays in over a year( lol) supposedly a relay either works or it doesn't , but I think they can become weak and have intermittent problems. Off to the garage to see if I can find my other New relays

Sorry you are in such a dilema. I have over 100,000 miles on the stock clutch. Unless there is something mechanical wrong in the clutch package it shouldn't be an issue. And I don't ride like an old man either LOL !!! It really sounds like an issue with the hydraulics. Could be a seal in there. wouldn't take much for the system to "feel" ok, but sitting at a red light with the clutch pulled in could "leak down " the system till you take off. then you have given the master cylinder some fresh fluid with shifting gears to the next red light. rinse and repeat. Does ti work OK on extended rides and just going up and down with normal riding ? andy

I would check the parts diagrams carefully. It could be that you will need to change out the splined hub on the input shaft. There were two different ones- short and long -. I want to say the single plate has the short one - the twin plate has the long one. I could be wrong lol many bikes and old age sometimes don't do memory well -). While you are checking dimensions, also check clutch push rod length. I feel certain the cup plate that fits in the middle to engage/disengage the clutch is common. I think it is imperative to have some kind of centering tool. I have never had a clutch go back on by eyeballing. To add to the eyeball complication- you are trying to tighten bolts that only reach their hole by a thread and are in the vertical position unless you push the engine over on the nose somehow. Its not a complicated task to do but it is very hard to explain with words. I will see if I can find a picture. Surely there is a bloke over there that has a tool for the job you could use.

Now I just need ya to whip out one of those nice headers for me lol

congrats on a job well done. I reckon it all made sense once you got in there with it.

One more note....I you put a spanner on the nut on the back side of the pork chop and try to loosen first from there. Other wise you will probably round out the cap head on the front side.

Pretty straight forward. Made an awl from old screwdriver and pushed it in there. Laid a thin 1" wide piece of steel under the fulcrim point of the awl so I would not damage the case. popped right out. Shaft was in great shape. put new seal in and put it all back together. no leak now /

Me Thinks the reaction rod's main purpose is to keep the orientation of the bevel box in relation to suspension travel. I don't think they want any change in the angle of the drive shaft going into the box other than at the u-joint. The old BMW's and Guzzi"s tend to rise in the rear on acceleration, then when you got to the corner and slammed the throttle shut you ran out of ground clearance. And I'm sure also that it is a lot more involved than above lol

I vote for electrical issue. 1 question. does it happen when the motor is hot and cold or both ? I would start with the cheapest and easiest and move down the list. plugs,plug caps,plug wires and then coils. Coils usually have a pretty good service life. They rarely go bad. But they CAN. had one that started breaking down when it was above 90 degrees outside and had been riding for extended time. Buggar to find. pull over and checking things out always gave the thing enough time to cool off and work properly. it actually felt like a fueling issue. keep us posted

one more. Bjorn, If you would like all the pics, shoot me a pm and I'll email them to ya

sorry I'm stupid and I find this to be a pain in the ass to add pics to.

more

Well I got the rear seal changed out. pretty straight forward. I will try and post some pics. bout 3 hours and done.

gearbox is popular these days. I cleaned mine up the other day and just ran a bead of sealer all the way round. Then fingered it to smear around and cover all of the shaft. Taking the side plate off is kinda useless if you can seal it from the outside, but to each his own. Some of the gear selectors were indexed some not. Some pairs have more teeth than other pairs. like Docc says, If you pull the cover,make sure your in neutral Now off to the output shaft seal

2.8l who said that

as footnote on fluid, i run mine at like 2.5L. I think the book calls for 2.8L. Or with the bike level I can just see a gap in the window. Instead of being completely covered. I sometimes move at a pretty good clip and if I'm a few CC's short it doesn't blow out the overflow. Most "normal" riding may not require these actions

I don't know. That plate is off a spare tranny I have. I would be careful "prying" on it. the bonding/gasket seal will need to be "broken", then things should give way quickly. Almost like giving content pressure,then more, then more. If you "wack" it with a hammer you might snap a piece off and that would suck. good luck

here

Just FYI, this is what you will find if you pull the cover . Just make sure your mating surfaces are absolutely spotless upon reassembly. Please use a torque wrench also. lol . Some Italian castings aren't as good as others,, and if you pull the threads on one of the bolts .... Well I'm glad your close to Teo lol I'm sure you will be fine. Just take your time and do it like you know its supposed to be done.

Well, everyone will have to wait a little longer. I may have determined that it is not leaking. It appears that I may have a little blowby from the tranny vent. I will take a few longer day trips and see what happens. My question back to you Bjorn is " If you could not pull the cover, how would you get it out"? anyway thats what old busted screwdrivers are for. Heat, grind, bend till you get it in the shape you need for the project at hand. And be very carefull prying it out----don't want to scratch or gouge the shaft . It is dooable tho