andy york

Hi Bjorn, You are correct. There really aren't that many pieces to fall out. Its probably a coin toss as to which is easier. BUT. I can probably rebuild the motor without taking it out of the frame, But I'm NOT. Just hate to see ya open it up to the environment thats all. specially if we can do it without taking the cover off. Even if I pulled the tranny I would not pull that cover off unless there is another issue.

Don't take the Cover off ! You will shat all over yourself when everything falls out. I going to pull the swingarm, remove all driveshaft componets, remove the protective cage, and see if I can install my new seal. Maybe have to remove the right side porkchop. Its either that or I will pull the complete tranny off. I'll let ya know later this week

mine has a little dampness too. guess I will tackle that this weekend. maybe I'll find some voltage down there while I'm at it ... lol

Try locating your "flasher".Should be a 2 connector flash unit as found on an automobile.Right side panel area ...maybe. couple bucks at your local auto parts dealer

Thanks for the reference there Docc. Mine may have been a touch low to start with.... Monday afternoon 5:15 pm-12.61v Monday evening 7:55 pm-12.52v Tuesday 8:30 am-12.30v Wednesday 8:30 am-12.13v 2:00 pm-12.13v Bike did start at this voltage Thursday (today) 9:00 am-12.05v bike started So there is a Small draw from somewhere I just don't have what it takes to measure it I will investigate the hookup "live feed relay "

Rick's regulator #10-00.My battery ground goes to the tranny. per Docc's pic. The Reg has a "Boss" cast into the back side That can be tapped,and I did, and ran a ground to the Timing chest cover. I think all in all I in good shape except for the milliamp draw that may be happening. she's sitting in the garage with a meter hooked up and I will be checking and recording voltage for the next couple of days. will see what happens

It is a "Rick's" regulator from rick's motorsports electrics

I went to the local duc dealer since my mind was telling me that some of the 1990's ducs had 2 wire systems like ours. I was correct. I bought an aftermarket one( I think I mentioned it ....I'll have to look in another post.) It puts a good 14.1-14.2 volts at 3-3.5k rpm so I'm happy. I took all the positive leads off the battery and went through each one. No light at all. I'm guessing 40-50 mA would not glow much of anything. The regulator runs straight to the battery. It is fused. I will keep digging. Trevini or Kiwi Roy will have to walk me through "live feed relay through the ignition switch". thanks

Thanks. I will get on this when I get home. Funny when you hear it again you think oh yea thats right! knew I had seen it before...

Ok. The saga continues. New regulator putting out good voltage at rpm (14.1) so went for a ride last week. 4 or 5 hour ride,couple hundred miles, starts when I need it,etc.... This morning I get up to ride out to the old farts club and no juice. dead. headlight won't even glow. What in the world could be draining the battery? (new battery) Seems like there was something about this somewhere but I can't find it. Couldn't find the hot and ground flapping in the wind spewing 12 volts either lol

Sorry for the bad fortunes but I do find that to be very odd. The spine frame motors seem to be fairly bullet proof, other than the somewhat finicky fuel injection. I do hope you keep us posted as to the out come, regardless of fixing or selling it. I don't know what was involved with the camshaft but with the lack of more bike history, it sounds like it may not have been cleaned well enough on the inside when that happened. good luck hoping for the best

OK The moral of this story is ............... Bad voltage Regulator. Thats the 3rd one so I guess I'm averaging about 34,000 miles per regulator. This one is a Rick's motorsports Regulator. DISCLAIMER : This is NOT a bolt on replacement for Moto Guzzi. They do not list a Moto Guzzi but they do have a Ducati single phase regulator for a 998 or 748. The case is a little narrower, and doesn't mount up like stock, but I made a bracket. It has a neat little boss that has already been drilled for a ground wire. And the black and white wires are backwards for our application. Hopefully a test ride this week and I'll be good to go ....for another 34,000 mile lol Thanks Roy

Hi Roy, Reg model #10-00. Its a single phase reg that appears to be wired like our ducati energia regs ie. 2-yellow, double red wire in one connector, a black and a white wire. When I first had it hooked up it was just hanging and not grounded and was putting out about 12.3-12.5 volts. I thought if nothing else it would at least allow me to ride a little each day. Then as I was moving it,still connected, it slipped and touched the header and arced. Thats where I'm at right now .....going to call Ricks in the morning Thanks for chiming in on this

sounds to me like they sent you the wrong rigs. There is a formula for ring end gap, I don't recall exactly but something along the lines of .003-.004 for every 1" of bore. Need to get those folfs on the horn and tell them what happened. 92mm is 3.622" Surprisingly, I probably would have a broken ring now ....don't see how you got it on

I pulled the 30 amp main fuse to to hook up "ricks" brand reg. good ground . etc.....Blows the 30amp fuse when I reinstall fuse. Guess I'll have to what for tomorrow till I can call Ricks. Must be wired differently..... I think we need a frowny face with tears runnibg down its cheeks...-(

ya ya ground strap was cleaned and reattached new reg actually has a boss to tap and put a good ground on it but I don't believe I should see sparks fly when trying to hook up the reg. If you get bored...............

hey monkey, thats the one I thought I would try next. as an side note ,I did not have the reg grounded, it was just plugged and hanging.Then this morning I moved it and touch some metal and got an arc. Now I'm really wodering whats going on lol

Being At wits end here, I had a brain storm. I recall that some of the late 90's-early 2000 Duc's had a 2 wire charging system. Off to the local Duc store bout 5 min from me. (never been there , don't like the guy ) After all the BS of whats it go on-we can't do that it won't work- I finally ask him to get the damn thing and let me see it. Low and behold its a Ricks 2-wire voltage regulator. bought-home-pluged in. Appears the problem was the regulator. I guess once it heated up enough ( which did'nt take long) something stops doing its job and there is a spike in current which blows the fuse and seconds later the headlamp. I think this regulator is set to low cause I'm only showing 12.4v to the battery, but its rock steady. No flucuation at all. And no blown fuses or headlamps. Still need to find a proper regulator that gets me up to the 13.5-13.7 range but I sure wish it didn't have to be a ducati mechnia. I'd pay top dollar to have an adjustable heavy duty unit cause what we have is crap

Well then it will be 2 boy scouts with meters against the calvery lol The stator appears to be performing correctly AC volts are within spec Found a "Rick's" voltage regulator at the Duc dealer( long story) and my new tach arrived. I don't think I'll plug it in yet . Also pick up a nifty little short circuit tester. Plug it in instead of a fuse It starts buzzing and then trips ....after it cools down it resets itself and start the process over again

OK back to square one. Thought I had it solved with the wire Not being attached. It was attached so now I'm still blowing 15 amp fuse. I will assume that Kiwi Roy will tell me a low and high for AC volts from the alternator,measuring between the two yellow leads. Since I don't want to plug my new tach in I'm guessing that at about 2500 to 3000 rpm I'm getting 50v AC....If I rip it on up to about 5500 to 6000 rpm I get about 75 -80 v AC My next step is to plug in my spare voltage regulator and measure at the battery. I'm not convinced I don't have a "bad " new battery. Its a Hawker. I've had great success with them but this one just doesn't seem right. I have another larger one. When put on the battery tender after about 15 min the light turns green (meaning fully charged). On the "new"battery even after 24 hours it won't go green. anyway Guess i might have to fly Kiwi Roy in lol unless Docc gets here first

Hi Gavo, Do NOT try and remove this while on the bike. You have disassembled it this far so go ahead and pull the gear box off. If you pull this off on the bike you may never get it aligned back to put the cover back on. Crab the frame up,pull the starter and remove the 6 or so bolts/nuts hold the tranny to the engine. Once you have the box out it will be much easier to accomplish this task. It will also give you the oppurtunity to reseal the box if it turns out not be a loose couple of bolts . keep us posted

I reckon a little clear "liqer" could be used ( or abused) I'll be in the man cave this week putting my serviced suspension back on. FYI anyone in these parts needs suspension work try David at FastbikeIndustries dot com Great guy, has worked for 5 or 6 of the top teams in AMA road racing. His specialty is Ohlins but he works on any of them ( that can be serviced. some can't) Back to the smoke issue….. I put a new battery in and proceeded to have "over charging issues. I'm pretty sure i left off the hot wire coming from the voltage reg which should have been on the P terminal I know it fried the tach, just wondering what else. Maybe even messed up the new battery. anyway …..more to follow

sounds very interesting. Would like to have something like that myself but it sounds like there's magic smoke involved and i'm allergic to it. lol

very nice indeed. least there's no magic smoke involved lol

Thats some funny stuff John lol . I find it interesting that the Italians were left out of that scenario…must have been an oversight. We need to incorporate Valeo,Veglia, and ducati into to that somehow. As an aside to that …I was looking at a Ferrari 308 and I swear its has the same tach as a early 80's Moto Guzzi