andy york

or you could go the forged mag ....Marchesini forged wheels. Front should not be a problem. Rear is where your going to have trouble because of the drive set-up.

BST carbon wheels. You will have to have them custom made. They might have something that would work with an MGS-01 type of set-up. something tells me your not using a late model LeMans(2002-2005-6). Best contact them directly. A front and rear rim ......probably gonna be 2-3 times the cost of what you have in the bike. just guessing more power to ya !!!!!

73 V-7 Sport Amazing how tiny it feels compared to anything new Andy

plus one for mounting the battery tray from the underside. mines been like that for .......long time I guess

Cool garage space ! I like the look of all the wood also. Light and plenty of it. whatever your planing double it. I can see an 8' fluorescent mounted against the "front wall" and then 1 on each of the horizontal "rafters" and finally something by the door. I have a 3 car spot and have 10 8'double tubes in it. Neighbors use to rag on me that the sun went down everywhere except my garage

Penske did make a rear shock for the V11. First one I had was wrong...don't remember if it was to short or to long. It would work but it did not work ....one of those weird situations. I sent them my stock shock and they built/fixed the first one. Just saying all this so one will do "do diligence " if one goes for a Penske. Andy

Those forks should bolt up. You will have to change your front wheel bearings to accept that axle. thats the Ducati style hollow axle...same size bearings on both sides. There are no more new rear Ohlins. Docc got the last one of those. There are other rears available that work quite well...but then there not Ohlins. sorry I did not look at your location. if you are an eastern guy, there is a great shop in Henderson NC that does Ohlins. I would have them serviced with fresh oil, new seals, and have them set up for your weight Andy

Some how I have a picture in my head of you going downstairs to fondle on her again. And all she does is roll her blinkers at you all the while thinking "Is he really going to do this again"

When you have a moment Andy, could you please take a more clear close-up photo? It's difficult to see where the zerk is. Thanks. As soon as I can....she is in the back of the garage...hard to get at. I guess I will start posting a disclaimer on my "hacks". I am not responsible for what happens to you. Yes... I put another access point in the u-joint cover...and yes I know what the u-joint cover is for. oh and yes I accept responsibility for my actions. I hope it enables you to grease the u-joint and go 130,000 miles just like me.

here is the cut out I made on my LeMans

If you have not put everything back together you can take that front u-joint cover off and cut a bigger hole in order to get a grease gun on the zerk. If you feel like it. I did not relish the idea of that disassembly every time I put a tire on. (which used to be 3-4 times a year) Should be a thread on it somewhere in here. Andy

I thought someone talked about using a Hall sensor? Chuck maybe ? and to clarify my earlier statement. In the past, many many miles traveled for work or places far from home. During those "events" I was not exactly traveling in the most legal fashion. Now days I don't travel for work on the bike so I have been "taking it easy" which puts me right in the 2.8 to 3 k range of the hiccups.

That would be a negative then. I have 4 or 5 of them floating around in the draw. Some are new...some are used. They all work the same...as in they work, but did not cure the hiccup. I used to just never ride in that rpm range or rode through it so it did not bother me much. Now age has crept into the picture and I guess I'm slowing down....but its right right where I want to be when I'm out riding around the HD part is NLA I think....I could not get one the last time I tried

UM. how did what work out ?

Now that friends and neighbors is what I call PURDY !!!

it may not solve the issue but to me it puts more cred on the fact that the smaller hex nut is for compression. and if that is the case you will have to take off the top cap to adjust your sag. some forks you can "feel" the detents as you turn the rebound screw. I would think that there are no more than 15 on the Marz. There maybe detents on the compression.make a mark with a sharpie, put a box end wrench on the smaller nut and see how many turns. If you ever get to the point of pulling the forks out, upon reassembly, be sure to index the forks to the same orientation so your markings make sense. like put the R on "top"

35 mm of sag is more of a "common" number people try to achieve. It doesn't just happen. It will depend on what springs you have....what fork oil you are running....and fork settings. They are different for everyone. If Docc has his sport set to 35mm of sag and I get on his bike, sag will be about 70mm.Docc is about 170 soaking wet and I am about 230 dry (pounds).Anyone who has ridden my bike says it seems harsh and stiff. Probably is for them but its really good to me. So ....were you able to turn the middle section? if yes, how many turns did it go. And if it was 3-4 turns then that may mean that is your C adjustment. Which also means you might have to take the top cap off to put in a shorter spacer per some commit I made earlier. Maybe Roper will chime in later as to what forks you might have. I'm betting they are Marz just a different model. and we will figure out what to do. if you do pull a top cap off be sure the weight is off the front. thats all I have for now

what does the manual say about the larger center nut ?....maybe that is the compression adjustment.

The top of that fork almost looks like you can adjust preload by turning the bigger middle nut...19 mm in size maybe. The smaller screwdriver blade adjustment is for compression and/or rebound. Those fork top caps a very different from the earlier V11 Marzzochi forks. Looks like the top piece with the C / R adjustment is mounted in another piece that has flats on it like a nut, which may be you preload. I would assume that the largest area with flats that would accept a wrench or socket is the top cap of the fork tube itself. If you have a way of taking weight off the frontend, you might do so and see if you can turn "the middle nut "CC wise which should soften/give more sag.

That was an extremely short answer. What manufacture are your forks? I can't zoom your pic enough to see much other than the fact that they do not look like Marzocchi. Do you have Ohlins forks? more info needed

Unless someone else chimes in about a 2005 model year LeMans, you should have left tube C right tube R. Do you know the history of this bike? Has someone replaced a component because of an accident? Unfortunately to set preload you will have to try different length spacers under the top fork nut. Specifically, you will want a shorter spacer than what is in there now. Andy

I would like to know more about the front brake set up and what was trying to be achieved. Andy

New calipers are cheap enough in my opinion. 100 bucks and you probably could have a new one. Bike sitting for 5 years = bad fluid. starts to solidify in the line...first pump or 2 is ok and then you have forced that nasty stuff into the caliper. Now its stuck in the caliper and can't find its way back in that tiny feed hole. In the mean time the caliper is full and pushing the pads against the rotor. Rotor gets cherry red ..heat transfers to the caliper...melts the seals and distorts the pistons. Pistons are of a non-metallic substance so they can't transfer any heat. Of all the things you could not like about a V11, the rear brake is the most under engineered piece on the bike. I think it really was a "use these , we have a bunch of them". I rarely use the rear brake ....2nd set of pads in 125,000 miles. I mainly use the rear in the rain. I haven't look in a while but do replace the rotor also. if it got cherry red is has been compromised . Andy