andy york

Bringing this back to the front again.... Was it determined that a HE sensor would or would not work? That seems like a much better alternative. in the mean time, I will be down at the local H-D dealer to see about a TPS.

Pete the recall I remember was for the "moveable sleeve" in the six speeder. on the 2002 Lemans parts diagram picture C-13 #'s 2 & 8. #2 is Part# 04214900.....#8 is Part # 04213900 I believe these are the sleeves that the shift forks fit in and actually shift the gears. I don't think "gears" were involved

LOL. I wasn't aware that mine worked.In a previous regulator install, the directions said the charge light would be in operative. beats me....but its on now. Need to find a Shinnding reg or whatever its called. Like to try something different.

Stator checks out OK. upward and onward

thank you kind sir

Hi again could some refresh my memory as to the ac voltage on the 2 yellow wires from the stator. trying to determine why my charge light is on thanks Andy

Thanks Marty !!

Went back to square one ...started the process over again. Everything worked out good. Got the TB's balanced, have an idle screw that actually does something, seems to run good. At the moment, no more weeping from the shaft seals, which was the main intent to begin with. Now, I need a name for the black plastic "thingy" that snaps onto the ball on the right TB. Screws onto the balance rod.I would like to replace it with something of metal. Both the plastic ones I have are cracked, brittle, and quite frankly, Sloppy. Hiem joint comes to mind but I can't seem to find anything that doesn't have a hole for a bolt or stud. Need something that fits an 8mm ball.

1 step forward - 2 steps back

I'm around

yep

well thats just dandy...I seem to have misplaced my TB plate degree meter. Now I wonder where that thing went? I just can't seem to get where I want to be....which is having the left TB idle screw actually control the idle. I can get the TB's balanced at about 1200 rpm but the idle screw is still backed out all the way and not doing anything. I can increases idle speed, just not decrease it. If it were a 2x4 it would have hit me in the head by now

I seem to be in the ball park now ....but its bout 400' to home plate and I'm on the warning track. anyway, I seem to have it balanced and it will start. Both idle screws are out all the way and not doing anything at present. So, In my mind that just leaves getting the connecting rod adjusted properly. I think it will go something like this ... disconnect right TB and lengthen the end 1 turn .. reconnect- start- rebalance TB and runs and repeat till I get it right. I don't know why starting with both TB's closed and the connecting rod attached( with no charge to the TB's) did not seem to work. Oh ....and my air bleeds have always been about 3/4 to 1 full turn open. I will have to recheck that as well Now back to the garage

yep. Thats what I was trying to accomplish. Injectors rebuilt and flow tested.new shaft seals to stop the spooge from leaking out. just trying to get everything working again

SO somebody hands you 2 TB's, a sync rod, and an upper and lower mounting bracket. How would you "set them up" to work correctly? Thats what I call a "bench sync". I feel a moment coming on in the morning

yes....I think I did that ....I will do it again in the morn....maybe Murphy will be gone by then. But even before you get to setting the TPS, you need to have a "bench sync " as I call it. Used to bench sync carbs before mounting them up...just to get in the ballpark

I found Murphy hanging out behind the garage. My thought process goes like this..... set both TB's fully closed, idle screws backed out all the way. Both TB's should be fully closed. Next ...mount to top and bottom rails to form a complete unit...as in ready to mount on the cylinders. Once mounted on cylinders, take a couple of dial indicators and put against the throttle plate's (the side that opens to the rear) Once we have a measurement we will try and install the sync rod as I call it. I want to have the rod installed with no change in the throttle plates...right ? Then working with the left TB idle adjustment screw, try and get some idle out of it. Just trying to get it to run so I can do the basic TB sync. I just can't seem to get there. My carb styx say I am balanced but it idles like an old cold Mack truck...up and down....rump ....rump....rump...rump well. tomorrow is a new day and I will be back at it Andy

Uh....pardon me sir ...I believe they are all 54 mm....they may be shorter but clamping area is 54 mm. bout to go back to the sweet box and see how my new seals and injectors work.Probably won't .... cause of something stupid or Murphy is standing out behind my garage

2004 should not be very prone to vapor lock. I do believe you have the in tank filter and pump.Earlier models had the pump and filter mounted on the spine under the tank....definitely vapor lock candidate. If the starter switch ever doesn't "work", try to jump the starter. It will spark, but if the starter engages, it eliminates a few things. If the pump is not priming ...as said...look at the relays...you can also find the fuel pump connector some where under there and give it 12volts. Should be fairly simple...Check all your grounds too!!! magic smoke seems to disappear on these bikes

umm.....thats why you put pod filters on ... no side covers

umm.....thats why you put pod filters on ... no side covers

Mr Waddington must have had a sister that married a Murphy.

I took a leap of faith. After reading about this, I searched in vain for an injector cleaning service locally. I found them on the web, read what was said on there web pageant sent them my injectors. I don't have them back yet so this is still a work in progress. It my be a few more weeks before I can finish this project because of life. andy