andy york

I do not think that this is the problem with "tuning " the TB sync. I also put new shaft seals in both TB's. There was an old thread on wild goose about this. Plus I was tired of the spooge on my floor that looking like leaky carbs . I got the seals from Cycle works ? in CA. Same seals as a Duc uses. These seals are the good ones they are a bit pricey but I did not want to spend the time trying to track down something locally. If you are going to be removing any screws make sure you use a good tool. The mounting screws are 3mm hex.Make sure you get it seated all the way. The TB plates are torx bit #20 I think. I did not have a problem with them.I did have some problems with the 3mm hex. WARNING!!!! If you pull the TB plates out, make some scribe marks so you will know how to re-install them. You can spend HOURS trying to get the plates back in correctly ....and you still may not be correct. andy

I sent a pair of injectors to "InjectorsRX".When I get them back, I will send them the other 2 I have.

If you pull the flywheel off, make sure you note the orientation. There are timing makes stamped on the flywheel that you may one day want to locate. It is very helpful when you locate the marks they are in the correct position andy

i did not even attempt it. I just took a throttle body off one side then slide the other out w/ the upper and lower mountings still on. 2 hex head upper and 2 hex lower. Probably easier to pull the left side off. right side has the fast idle contraption on the bottom mount. I took it off of mine but some might prefer to keep it. As far as mounting Breva TB's......don't know. My first concern would be the spigot size that mounts to the head. many other concerns after that... not even considering what flow and mapping problems it might bring

And why not ?

well ....I don't really know. I usually reset the trip meter every time I fill up. This time I used some non-e gas I had at homeland did not fill up all the way. I reckon I forgot a few trips. As I recall, first glow was usually around 160 miles. 36 to 40 mpg is average for me. I think 32 is the worst and 45 is about the best

here take it

yes there are rubbers in the rear drive on late model spiney's. I believe the early 1100 sport and sporti and Daytona maybe did not andy

I don't think there is a real definitive answer. Docc probably is close back when he "figured it ". Tank swell, your sending unit, being the biggest variables I see. Then there is the acceleration / braking factor...I recall braking could bring the light on and accelerating could turn it off - for awhile. Been awhile since i have seen "the light" since it appears my bulb is blown. I reckon thats not all thats blown with me

thanks Chuck

or you can do this again.

Anyone have ideas on how to check fuel level sender and idiot light? Was wondering if you could apply some small voltage to the pins on the connector and make the lamp glow ? The idea sounds easier than stripping the fairing off to gain access to the instruments.....maybe not ? Or Ohm Meter the pins on the connector going into the harness.. after sitting under the overpass for awhile...I remembered Docc's bit about trapped fuel. Leaned it over to the left as far as I could hold it....after I recovered she fired up long enough to get off the slab and into the fuel station

Here...

you can search around here for fixes. Several different ways to go about it. Something about a dime being the perfect fit. I cleaned mine up, made sure it was dry and the glued the dime in there with gasket sealant .....same thing you used on the cover after your spring upgrade andy

This is the only emoji you need well maybe this one

I don't have an answer for who sells them other than from them or over the net. Way back when ... I had everything in my rear drive micro blued and polished. My ring gear had some abnormal wear on the teeth...as in it appeared like a bad hardening of the steel. I had them do it all ...bearings and gears. They were up in Minn or Wis at the time. Appears they have moved to N.C. or maybe someone bought them out. That was about 4 computers ago. Don't know if I have any of the correspondence from then. I must admit, the spin down test is truly remarkable. And I'm still running that rear drive at 125,000 miles.

Even taking the pan off, its easy enough to miss the filter gasket stuck in place.It has happened to me twice. After the second time it has become part of the oil change routine. Old filter off...w/ gasket- no -reach up and pull old gasket off....continue w/ oil change ... I do put a bit of oil in the new filter though....i forget which wife told me that

If its any consolation, I have 125,000 on my LeMans. Original timing chain,tensioner,oil pump, etc...etc...etc... and it still has the 2800-3000 rpm hiccup !!! I think I will keep her

I wish some of these would show up about 2000 miles closer to me

And to what do you torque your nut to?

Been a long time since I've heard the term "micro blued". Seems like that gentleman was from Wisconsin or Minn. I had some stuff done way back with the invention of dirt. Glad to hear its still around. andy

nut side

I think we need a poll topic.... What do you torque your front and rear spindles to ?

inner spacer 12.33 mm outer needle race 18mm looks newish clueless on mileage rear wheel bearings feel good think i'll put on a new tire and ride andy