andy york

late to the party as usual.... something is definitely amiss if one cylinders adjustments had to be dramatically changed to A: get everything installed again ... B: to get some sort of valve clearance. maybe the flywheel marks are correct but it was not installed proper. Maybe this motor has been "into " before. In my head, even if you were a tooth off on the cam to crank timing, it would not require such a drastic valve lash change. In your last reply the left cylinder is at TDC and the valves are open. To me ....TDC is compression stroke -valves closed. You can zing a motor-bend the valves- and run the motor. It will suck on the bottom and appear ok on the big end. stumble -backfire-cough and puke down low ....but the bend is ever so slight ....and then on the big end seems to run ok ...cause things are happening in there so fast ... its not mine but... I would at least do a TDC check on each cylinder WITHOUT looking at the flywheel. left cylinder TDC valves closed set/ check lash ....right cylinderTDC valves closed set/ check valve lash. lots of knowledge available around here so keep us posted

We missed you and the misses this year. I am sure you will have a much more interesting adventure... see ya soon

only problem was the speedo quit on the way home LMAO

I'm back

Thats one way of putting it. I could have probably found some SUV lift gate strut that would have accomplished the same thing. These things do not meet my definition of cartridge forks....at least not compared to my Ohlins

well i wasn't to worried about where the weight is, since I have plenty of it. I put the tighter coils at the top and moved on. I must admit though, For a "modern bike", it is quite the archaic design. basically a mini shock absorber mounted inside a tube attached to the front wheel. anyway thanks guys andy

Hi rebuilding my 73 V7 sport front end. putting progressive rate springs in ....progressive at the top or bottom? I forget LOL thanks andy

Ditto

you guys need to lean into the corners more

ping me this am - tell me what else you need - send up a flare to guide me there - do i need the bike or the truck ?

looks like you gonna need some more of my tools no hammers allowed

did you sand your assembly marks off ?

well

looks like the one in my picture by the way ....what are ya'll drinkin down there? If ya'll keep this up, I'll be needin some

I must have one from a single plater. sorry

Yes... that is some nasty... but, if the input hub was loose, that was the problem...everything else is secondary. looks to me like you need everything that goes in there.( i would) flywheel - pressure plate- 2 clutch discs - intermediate plate - and an input hub. Let me know what size you have and I will check the other one I have. As far as how the wear on the teeth happens ... only a theory ... the springs only work in a "horizontal" attitude big v-twin with uneven firing pulses transmits torque in a manner 90º to the springs springs working front to back -- clutch plates hitting side to side -- if sitting at a red light with the clutch pulled in...bang bang bang. if you sitting there in neutral, idling, not much going on. so much for the 1100rpm idle. mine has been around 900 rpm since forever. you must be cruising the square on weekends.....LMAO ( its a southern thing ) also I assume you got everything disassembled with out needing the flywheel lock ...if you think it will be an advantage upon reassembly let me know and I will get it to you .

OK its been 6 hours since you got the tools. We need some kind of status or an update. hoping the beer consumption has not exceeded the volume of work LMAO

Thats a nasty looking mess right there. I don't think it is enough to keep the clutch from engaging. It might require some fancy lever action but it should still function. I have the hub wrench if you need it ....among other things

I reckon you love this misery.. Way back when in this thread, I gave you the most valuable information. I have TWO of these things. One is brand new and the other is used. Would you like either one or both? I'm thinking you could at least you could diagnose the problem. if not, I will crawl back under my rock

I think we are good on the measurements i have the 1st "step" at 38 mm 2nd "step" at 40 mm depth measured on the outside 18 mm (from the face where the piston is flush to the flange of the unit) inside depth is 27.5 mm first seal is of an o-ring type inner seal is of the square profile o-ring the actual piston dia is 30mm x 24 mm in length Part #s V11 series - GU 01086330 griso/norge FU 05086330 stelvio 978739 MGX 85220R andy

no spring on any of the other slave cylinders. Quite a few Jap bikes have springs in the slave behind the puck.

both holes on the top are the same - 10mm x 1.0 3 fasteners are on 50mm centers piston is 30 mm andy

spring probably goes behind "puck". I let ya know in the morn about thread size and bolt size ah hell be right back

for some reason I thought I looked at that. Maybe I spoke with someone at MI. don't remember. I have another one if you need it. Actually I have 2 ....Scud sent me a used one - and I think I ordered 2 when I got mine from harpers. it had obviously been sitting on the shelf for years andy