Bruce Reader

I dont have any data at hand at the moment but the last map i had done (not pc III) i was told that it needed a lot more fuel (i think across a majority of the map-i dont know). This was post replacement with the brass holder. This was also after head shave, possible different cam (breva rather than v11 as the part catalogue at one stage listed just 1 V11 cam from guzzi which i've since been told has seperate listing again) and intake work. I had put the fueling need down to a shorter intake time or lift with the breva cam. I know there are a lot of variables in this example. The mechanic has just opened his own service centre post a dealership closing and i will talk with him about some specifics. I assume the original map for this bike was done with the bike as dilivered-gap and plastic holder. I assume the map was tested to run well at idle at hot ambient temp. I assume at high speed at same ambient temps that wind chill will vary the temp reading as opposed to sitting at the lights. I know the plastic doesnt last so is the answer at the software end with a brass sensor ? Does the environment cause for the sensor to be variable other than just resistance. Hence the heat sink and insulation principles talked about already in regard to plastic, air gaps and air flow cooling of the material holding the sensor. Can these bikes have a totally different reaction with a brass temp sensor holder when they are at idle at the lights in southern california and Seattle ? Accumalitive heat soak difference. They are maybe both fine at high speed long runs but they show up at standstill ? Cheers Bruce

Who has had a dynoed map done with the brass temp holder and what differences in temp compensation, fueling etc to the original map ? Does anyne actually have an out of factory map to start a baseline with ? At least Ratchet is collecting some data that may point towards what will be needed to be tinkered with ? Cheers Bruce p.s I havent had a look at thy myecu page yet but maybe they have some answers with different holders etc.

Yes ! Wonderful black plumage. Unfortunately it's dead. Cheers Bruce

Its crap because it fell to bits insitu ! Therefore having one hell of an air gap. As you said once broken its probably of little value.

G'day everyone. Do we have any data on the bikes that originally had the brass temp sensor holders in regard to fuel maps and idiling performanece ? Id like to get the brass temp sensor correct as my plastic one was missing a 10mm shard out of it before i replaced it. Even if the gap is needed the plastic piece is crap. Cheers Bruce

Could be interested. Price ? Ship to Australia? Cheers Bruce

I like the single plate as well. My flywheel started to go balls up at 22000km. The Ram replacement has had 30000km so far with no problems. Hey Pete- Sorry you couldnt get that Scura back home. I recently had a look at the rules in regards to bringing bikes in Australia......- Ridiculous. Cheers Bruce

One thing i have found these bikes like to travel above 4000 rpm on the open road. The city is not their friend. Cheers Bruce p.s my mate on his fairly new KTM Superduke gets about the the same as me-16km/l and another mate on his Triumph st 1050 gets 17-18km/l

Thanks everyone for the replies. No troubles with the front and the clutch now. (i assume the ball bearing is in there). The rear has a dimple as well and i have ground down the speed bleeder to suit but have a sealing problem. Any idea if the rear had the sealing ball bearing as well- or have i switched the original clutch bleeder to the rear ? Cheers Bruce

Ok! I have grinded a small amount from the 8125 for the front and installed- fine so far. Similair with the rear but it still leaks a little (1 drop). As did the original which is flat bottomed with a dimple in the centre. The dimple on the original bleeder for the rear brake looks like it could locate a small ball bearing for sealing. 1. Does any one know if any of the brakes on the bike and the clutch have ball bearings sitting inside the bleeder cavity ? 2.Could the "original" nipple i have from the rear brake be the clutch nipple ? If anyone is about to service these areas can they check for me inside the bleeder nipple cavity and check the shape of the original base end of the nipples and if any have ball bearings inside. Someone i think once mentioned a ball bearing in the clutch or rear brake. Cheers Bruce

G'day everybody ! Just want some clarification on speed bleeders for my Luci. I have a set of 8125 and 8125l in front of me and my original bleed nipple from the front caliper. Now i remember fitting a 1010s for the clutch after carefully grinding down the conical end. Still working well. It appears that the front nipple also needs some grinding down when compared to the original. Is this what other people did for the 8125l to work ? I have fitted the 8125l without modification and tightened as much as i dare and they still leak 1 small drop over time through the nipple. Also with or without the end modification it appears as the 8125 is a closer fit than the 8125l which has a lot of excess thread above the caliper. Do the front/rear calipers and clutch all have a small ball bearing inside that the original blunt/concave end mates with ? Appreciate your time. Cheers Bruce

Should be a washer that sits around the outer edge of the bearing in your photo. Pack it with grease and stick the washer on with some more- keep the pressure hose away from it. I regrease it all every time the wheel is off. My 2nd bearing has lasted 3 times the first so far. Cheers Bruce p.s- Wise to get the bearing and sleeve from a bearing dealer as the parts from Guzzi were robbery.

Still interested in 1 if you have the time. Cheers Bruce

All the best for your son's and family recovery. Regards Bruce

Brad at Moto One also speaks about some changes to the Ducati 900 mie idle throttle position around 2000 (2.4 to 3.1deg) Perhaps this relates to Euro 1 to 2 or 2 to 3 emissions stuff or something else. Interesting he points out that the throttle angle/tps is increased to something similair to our basic setting on the forum and the Guzzi manual. Some of the high idle issues may relate to my point mentioned above or the right side throttle body shaft air suck. Brad makes a good point in relation to tuning the bike in regards to idle trim, CO output etc. Some of us are doing this blind in regard to idle trim and CO output. My bike developed a stumble at low revs and idle problems after performing well (1 year or so)post tuning at Moto One. I have had fuel and crud build up on the lower shaft nuts on the throttle bodies over time for several years (including 2 events of the return spring not working due to build up-fixed with a solvent spray). When i decided to give tuning a go at home i cleaned the throttle bodies externally -(possibly opening an earlier plugged air leak in the right throttle body) then followed the forum instructions. The bike ran very well - balanced etc- no pinking etc but my idle was 1600 rm with half turn out of air bleed left and right. Note- my rhs tb air bleed was 1/4 out and my left 1/2 turn out before i started. I have also used the other method disregarding closed mv reading (Michas ?) and runs well but a 20% loss in terms of fuel economy- previous 16km/ltr- now 14km/ltr. Air bleed 1 turn out left and Right. I now need to go back and check a few things- a. the rubber shaft seals b. the idle trim setting c.any valve changes- eg wear or out of setting- this cam is my second and note possibly a Breva cam replacement of the original which had wear issues. The bike was running fine with this cam and tuning for some time. Cheers Bruce

G'day everyone. I found this while on the site mentioned below. With people setting up the bike switching on and off to stop bikes overheating between steps- This may help explain differences in initial idle setting and what you find on your first ride down the street. www.moto-one.com.au/performance/ducati2vthrottleb.html 'One very important thing to know about the 1.5M ECU is that it runs rich for the first 3,000 rotations every time you start the engine after turning the key or kill switch off and then on. I just thought (while typing this) that I don’t know what happens if the engine stalls and you restart it – I’ve never tested that. So best to assume it does it every time. And this is not just when it’s cold. Every time! Even when it’s hot. If you start it up and check the idle mixture quickly and it’s 5% CO after idling for 3 or so minutes (3,000 rotations at 1,100 RPM idle is about 3 minutes) the mixture will drop to maybe 1% CO or so and it’ll idle like crap. I usually allow at least 4 to 5 minutes for the mixture to settle after starting the engine. It’s very annoying when you’re in a hurry, as you have to turn the engine off then back on to initiate the setting procedure with the diagnostic tools, but that’s how it is. Cheers Bruce

I have been messing (Tuning throttle bodies etc)on the Scura and have buggered the black plastic connector that attaches to the right side of the connecting rod that synchronises the throttle butterfly valves. Does anyone know where i can get one ? It is not a seperate listed part in the 2002 parts manual. Any help would be appreciated. Cheers Bruce p.s Ditto for the connecting rod. I can have one made if need be. p.p.s I recently found that my steering head bearings were well and truly stuffed-Mostly right side damage. They felt fine untill i removed the wheel and forks off the front then click, click click. Worth checking next time the forks are off !

I will try and check some out. Cheers Bruce

Good Idea. Now we need someone who can design the adaptors and a market large enough not to be to expensive per unit. Cheers Bruce

Thanks mate. Absolutely no hurry. Im busy with suspension and tuning at the moment. Indicators currently working so i can ride. Leds will happen when they happen. Are you happy with the your signals in terms of strong daylight effect on Leds ?

There is a thread on this somewhere. The front signals are wired like a bastard. I have a flasher unit that can compensate for leds or standard globes but this alone will not solve your problems. Cheers Bruce P.S. Hey Greg- any luck with your funky diode circut fix ?

If someone had the skills to design 2 bolt on adaptor plates/mounts im sure there would be a market on this board for a new 4ltr reserve option for the V11. Anyone with the skills/time for this ? Who would be interested in an easy 4 bolt/1 manual petcock/30cm fuel line solution to this problem ?

I have a set of these bearings to reduce the steering head angle. They came with some Italian instructions that i stuck into a web translator. Can someone interpret this for me ? Prima Del Montaggio Forcella Tagliare 2/3mm Fine corsa della base forcella Prima di mont are il cuscinetto inferiore tagliare o smerigliare 2/3 mm le appendici fine corsa sterzo if anyone has installed one of these on a V11 could they tell me if 2-3mm needs to be removed from the underside of the forward surface of the top clamp and 2/3 mm of the rearward upper face of the lower triple clamp ? Cheers Bruce

Couldn't you just put a new manual petcock where the regulator is and put the regulator on the lhs in the fuel light sender spot. Then run a line under the spine from right to left with a t piece fitting ? would this be a problem with an efi pressurised fuel delivery system ? You could do without the warning on the dash as you now have 3 ltrs of 'reserve fuel from the right when you want to open it up. Cheers Bruce

Do you want to sell the fairing ? Might be interested in swapping ? I have the third photo setup. Cheers Bruce