Bruce Reader

Hi all, More info here Pete http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...ohlins&st=0 Cheers Bruce p.s Pete i have the Ventura rack on my Scura that i can whip off for your trip- to fit you have to cut 2 small pieces out of the rear underneath- easily done but you will need a hacksaw blade or similair to get going. I have a decent bag to suit that you can use.

I'd buy one if the price was right Cheers Bruce

Thanks everyone for the info. Is there a method when attaching the forks to make sure the front is true- or by installing the front wheel and axle make it foolproof ?? Any ideas on a starting point in regards to dropping the forks with the ohlins for quicker steering ? Are the Ohlins forks the same length as other v11's ? Some people have commented on the Scura being higher at the rear ? Are the ohlins rear shock longer overall than the standard suspension. Is the rear shock servicable by the backyard mechanic ? I have a mark on the forward end of my drive shaft that appears like the rear has topped out allowing a rare contact of driveshaft and swingarm. Any ideas ? Cheers Bruce P.S. Appreciate your time- your expertise/knowledge has enhanced my 5 year (now to be lifelong) love of this marque.

G'day all. I remember a thread on this forum where threadlocker was used both to lock bolts and to protect threads. Just a quick request regarding the use of threadlocking agents. How much ? Cover all the thread ? How much do you use ? I ask this as i am in the process of resealing my gearbox (thanks again Pete for the peg sockets) and want to stop any losening of bolts but also protect the threads from corrosion that i have seen on the bolts that i have removed. Rgards Bruce

Thanks for the replies guys. I so far have had more appropiate springs installed for my weight- 1.05kg front and 1.1 in rear. I was wondering if a consensus was reached on the correct amount of fluid replacement for the forks ? I seem to remember a conflict between manuals as to fluid amounts/ air spring characteristics etc. cheers Bruce

G'day everyone, I think some transmissions may have a the right boss size but have a problem with the pawl arm spring interfering with the return lever spring underneath it. The end locating tab of the pawl arm spring was catching on the straight part of the return spring underneath it. Some may not have this problem as the tab may be shorter, or the return spring underneath is installed flipped over which lowers the arm away from the tab of the pawl arm spring. My return spring has a bright wear mark on it where the pawl arm spring tab has been catching as i change gears. This may also add to resistance and increase chance of false neutrals downshifting that i have when moving along at a quick pace from corner to corner. the wear mark/resistance is on downshifts only and this for me is the direction i have had false neutrals in. The catching of the spring may relate to the different failures- large boss with coil bind breaking earlier while a catching spring wearing and snapping at the end later. This inteference of the spring can be easing fixed by shortening the tab or by flipping the lever return spring over. i decided to shorten the tab in case i didnt appreciate some reason for the original orientation of the return spring underneath. Regards Bruce ps. My boss is 15mm

As the title suggests, i'm looking for a good method to mount the forks while making sure everything is well aligned. Apart from measuring each fork from a fixed point does anyone use any other added technique ? Regards Bruce ps. anyone have any instructions on how they service the ohlins fork? Oil type/amount, other things i can do while they are on the bench

Good luck leafman60- mine started to destroy itself at 22000km. Just checked my transmission boss and spring- 15mm (hopefully no worries). Found a spot where the two springs can catch -maybe contributing to missed shifts. Back to the flywheel- i noticed a louder clacking noise with some screeching sounds on take off just before mine became a problem. Thankfully at stop/start city traffic speeds. I had a RAM unit installed now for 15000km with no problems- it was quiet for the first couple of hundred kms and is now back to the same sound as the previous RAM/MG unit. Cheers, Bruce

*sorry the bike was on a lift under the engine* I had no troubles removing mine while resealing the transmission. i had the bike on a swingarm stand (bike upright). Carefull and good luck ! regards Bruce

Just found this. May be of interest to some. Regards Bruce http://www.recalls.gov.au/view_recall_deta...l_ID_Auto=14781

G'day everyone, Just discovered something interesting that may answer some of the issues with the old tranny spring breakage and downshifting issues. I have the pre selector plate off at the moment to check boss size etc (15mm-no worries) but i have had issues with downshifting at times regardless of adjustment etc. With the two cogs removed while moving the selector arm (sorry if terms ar incorrect) i noticed that in the upshift movement nil resistance (other than the springs) but 3/4 through the down shift movement a resistance (notch). The pawl arm spring end (where it breaks) was interfering with the return spring as it passed over the top. This could explain why some 15 mm bossed bikes break springs as the end tab is catching on the other spring underneath it (it has a nice bright wear mark on it). This momentary increased resistance could also cause the false neutral between gears as it may increase the likelyhood of the locating cam on the other cog to stop half way through its movement. i found you can fix this by either flipping the spring underneath 180 degrees or make sure the pawl arm spring tab does not protrude beyong the thickness of the pawl arm. Regards Bruce

G'day everyone. For Info on Rolf's tools (so to speak). Try http://www.guzzitech.dk/english/index.htm go to special tools for info. This is the same site of the Guzzi watch project. Cheers Bruce sorry go to the site then technical, then special tools.

Not cheap-- $110au for 1 gallon (3.78 litres) from Burson. Hope its good Regards Bruce

I just picked some up from Bursons. This web site should be able to direct you to a distributer near you Mark. Regards Bruce http://www.redlineoil.com.au/home.asp

Sorry Paul i wasnt able to direct link to the frame within the web site. go to the Hmb website 1. choose "parts" on lhs menu 2. Then "new parts" on main page 3. Then "About offers and rare pieces" on the main page then a page should load with selection of v11 engine parts, ohlin fork, v11 cams and the frame i was talking about. Regards Bruce.

Which frame are they selling here ? 25 or 26- its black not red. Could you just swap these frames over from a 2002 scura ? Regards Bruce http://translate.google.com/translate?u=ht...Flanguage_tools

Hi Pete. hope you and your family are doing okay. Thanks for all your efforts on the plate and taking the time for a beer with Kim and I-(even though i rode in on a 1200gs ) The performance improvement Brad at Moto One had gained on his Sport 1100i was what we were going for with the Scura. Increased comp, better crossover- (like the Scura on the Moto One website) and map to suit. See- www.moto-one.com.au/performance/sport1100.html The cam change was only due to the discovery of my cam being worn/pitted prematurely. My thoughts were that the different (Breva) cam had countered (not allowed) the other improvements. The only particular difference to Brads Sport is the fact we have tried without twin plugging it, as he has since seen his old bike running fine without it. I would not have thought that the twin plugging would be the culprit. this would allow better burn efficiency/timing changes maybe. The other difference was Brads bike had his own exhaust made but noted no particular difference to the bike -(other than free flowing cans Hindles i think. mine has Remus). Regards Bruce ps. Pete i traded the 1200gs on a Ducati S4Rs last month at Moto One.

Thanks for the info. The work being done is pretty much the same as the mechanics previous sport 1100i- (see link http://www.moto-one.com.au/performance/sport1100.html). About a 10hp increase. He was told the Breva cam was the same as the V11 series and it didnt click with me at the time it may be different. Guzziology states on pg 5-25 V11/Sport 1100i intake opens 22 deg btdc Breva 1100 10deg btdc V11/Sport 1100i intake closes 54 deg abdc Breva 1100 38deg abdc V11/Sport 1100i exhaust opens 52 deg bbdc Breva 1100 40deg bbdc V11/Sport 1100i exhaust closes 24 deg atdc Breva 1100 8 deg atdc I'm no mechanic/engineer but this would appear to restrict the motors intake charge ?? therefore less to compress/explode- therefore less power? Any further thoughts ? Regards Bruce

G'day to all in Guzzi land ! I have recently had some head work done to the Scura- Including before and after dyno. Work done inluded, Head shaved, thinner gasket, Stucchi crossover, and replacement of the cam (cam was pitted), and new map. The results so far have been less than remarkable. The cam was replaced with one from the Breva. I am told as it is supposed to be the same. I have a feeling that the cams may be quite a bit different (Euro 1-2 changes?). Could i call on the combined knowledge this board re specs and part numbers of the cams used froom v11 series and the Breva series ? Regards Bruce

Moto One in Melbourne is doing some work to my Scura- new crossover- head shave- new map etc. Brad checked my followers and found the cam has pitted. Replacing with a Breva cam- apparently the same. Shall try to get pictures etc on the board in the next month when the bike is back. Brad will probably post dyno etc to continue previous things he has done with my bike and similair on his site. www.moto-one.com.au Regards Bruce

I had these symptoms once. Tried a lot of things including relays, fuses, starter motor. Eventually double checked the fuses- None of the fuses had blown but one of the blue 15 amp fuses was cracked (the inner metal). You could 'open' the crack in the inner fuse metal by pushing/pulling the two exposed metal parts of the fuse and they would return on releasing. Most of the time the fuse was working. Sometimes it would not- replace the fuses- see if it helps. ps. the fuse had not fused from current problems- it was defective Regards Bruce

count me in for one! Thanks for your time Pete. Bruce

G'day to the Scura faithfull. I have the front and rear suspension of the bike for new springs and revalve. To answer the above The model number on the actual shock unit (Underneath forward eye) is MG1260. A seperate number below it seems to be a batch no- 109807 -Spring is 160mm long- -approx 80mm outside diameter -made with approx 11mm diameter rod (10 mm wih coating ?) -has 5 complete coils at full thickness or 6 complete coils with taper of spring included. I will have the susp shop check record the characteristics of the front springs including part no, length, spring rate etc. I will also attempt to find out the type of valving that came with this model. Regards Bruce -

Thanks KB for the advice. Do you know the fork spring rate-spring dimensions/type that came with the 'Dark' one ? My forks are on highest pre load for my weight 105kg(230 pounds) + gear. I heard the valving shim stack etc is a problem as well-(too harsh-maybe to try to counter the soft spring ?). A higher spring rate front and back are needed. Have people found this alone solves the problem ??? Have you had any problems with your triple clamps. it seems my forks are out 1 to 2mm to each other ? Regards Bruce

I need to replace my fork and rear springs to a higher spring rate (Ohlins on a V11 Scura). I have an idea from other posts regarding what rate etc and i have the workshop manual. Any advice regarding the removal of the suspension- tips tricks and things to look out for ? In the manual it speaks of removing one fork at a time. Any specific issues in removing them together to send to a suspension place-(could i do it myself ? Special tools or knowledge? I'm an average carefull backyard tooler). Any tips with removing the rear? Regards and thanks in advance for your time. Bruce Reader