Jump to content

Paul Minnaert

Members
  • Posts

    2,595
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    9

Everything posted by Paul Minnaert

  1. if you have money left after buying a sfida:-) But serious, I don't think a sfida is a beter guzzi than a guzzi. Ok more special& expensive, but that counts for collectors, like japanese. Any 4V big block guzzi is pretty special.
  2. Pete, never heard about this downshifting problem. When you open the door behind starter engine, you get a pretty good look inside. Also the gearchanging thing is in your hands then. inside you have something like this: http://www.fastguzzi.nl/gallery/main.php?g..._serialNumber=2
  3. Seem to be last v11 produced, with new colorscheme, not much more, one of them is for sale here: http://www.mobile.de/SIDrpHxBXJekGu7j3Y7AG...11111181144745& So there are some deliverd. But the stock is a year old now.
  4. these are old Marabese scetches
  5. Dean, I made the blue darker, is it better this way?
  6. Jaap, where do you think the gallery is running on:-) I have unlimited mysql databases.
  7. I have a new webhost, so I have plenty webspace now. So I updated my website with a gallery, where I put all pictures that were on other picturesites. And more. So take a look and let me know if this works from the whole world. And what about speed? http://guzzi.daytona-it.com
  8. 30205 is writen on mine.
  9. well Brian, on page 5 from the lm1 manual: http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/support..._Manual_3.0.pdf 4.1 Mounting the sensor using a Bung or Exhaust Clamp. Using a bung is the preferred method for mounting the O2 sensor for both catalytic and non-catalytic cars. On CATALYTIC CONVERTER equipped vehicles: Bung: Install the oxygen sensor’s bung upstream from the catalytic converter (a bung and plug is included in the LM-1 kit). Any decent muffler or exhaust shop can do this for you. The wide-band oxygen sensor is then installed into the bung to take a reading. (Insert the plug into the bung when not in use). The bung must be installed in the exhaust pipe at the side or on top, NOT on the bottom of the exhaust pipe. Best position is between 10:00 and 2:00 position.……or……… Exhaust Clamp: You may use the optional Exhaust Clamp to mount the O2 sensor to the car’s tail pipe when taking readings from cars with catalytic converters (see below). However, it is recommended instead to use the bung (as - 6 - described above) to give you the most accurate reading. Measuring after the cat will result in leaner-than-reality readings, depending on the efficiency of the cat. Some operators of chassis dynos use this method and roughly “correct” the reading. On NON-CATALYTIC converter vehicles: Exhaust Clamp: With non-cat cars, you can simply take the reading from the car’s tail pipe; however, you MUST use the optional Exhaust Clamp to do so. Do NOT simply insert the O2 sensor into the tail pipe. Doing so may damage the sensor and it will certainly not yield accurate measurements. (The oxygen sensor needs to have its cable exposed to outside air to yield the most accurate results.) ……or……… Bung: You have the option with non-catalytic cars to also use a Bung as described above. Use of a bung is the preferred method for mounting the 02 sensor for both catalytic and non-catalytic cars. On TURBO CHARGED vehicles: Bung: Install the bung downstream from the turbo before the catalytic converter. The high exhaust pressure before the turbo interferes with the lambda measurement and the high exhaust temperatures encountered there can damage the sensor. Do NOT install the Bung below the 3 o'clock or 9 o'clock position. Condensation can form in the exhaust pipe and permanently damage the sensor. 6 o’clock is the absolute worst position to mount the sensor.Wide band oxygen sensors – like the one shipped with the LM-1 – are designed to work with unleaded gasoline. Using them with leaded gasoline will significantly reduce the lifespan of the sensor. The reduction is directly proportional to the metal content of the fuel. In most cases, a wide band sensor will provide accurate measurements somewhere between 50 hours and 500 hours with leaded fuel. WHEN INSTALLED IN THE EXHAUST, THE OXYGEN SENSOR MUST BE CONNECTED AND OPERATING WITH THE LM-1 WHENEVER THE CAR IS RUNNING. AN UN-POWERED OXYGEN SENSOR WILL BE DAMAGED WHEN EXPOSED TO EXHAUST GAS. RULE OF THUMB: POWER UP THE OXYGEN SENSOR IMMEDIATELY AFTER THE ENGINE IS STARTED. (See Section 8.2) - 7 - The maximum temperature of the sensor at the bung (the sensor hexagon) should not exceed 500 oC or 900 oF. If these temperatures are exceeded in your application you should either install a copper heat sink (instructions below) or the Innovate Motorsports Heat-Sink Bung extender (HBX-1). The bung extender is recommended for situations where airflow is restricted or the encountered heat is higher than a heat sink can handle.
  10. the sensor shouldn't be to close to the heads, it can overheat. And then you have to buy a new one:-) I have a Innovate lm1 too, nice thing
  11. breva 1100?
  12. I see they use my pictures.
  13. >What about your shortened tank, is it done yet ? No winter has just started. I don't know yet how it's going to be.
  14. mathieu, and the wheels?
  15. possible yes, but the filter still gets hot. putting the pump more to the front, so it gets more wind, might be better. Al has made an extensive work of this, all documented here http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...75&hl=fuel-pump and look here http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=462
  16. Paul Minnaert

    V11 Quota

    there has been a picture of that in the past, small rsv look.
  17. Who is interested in that? If I want to drive cheap I get my car on GPL. I don't care what the bike drinks, if it is fun.
  18. Isn't it an idea to weld it on one side? so it won't bang the alternator cover. And one side less to have a problem with. I do have a spare set for anyone interested.
  19. That with the le mans fairing was the same thought I had when I saw the picture. When you see it more from front it's even more the same look.
  20. well then I add a magni fairing for the v11 in the USA, at 250 $ http://cgi.ebay.nl/Moto-Guzzi-V11-Magni-Fa...1QQcmdZViewItem
  21. Paul Minnaert

    V11 Quota

    Well see the quota as a sort of bmw r1100 gs. The beemer isn't light either. There is a quota here in NL with v11 engine, it's the engine where I have the gearbox from. The quota breaks are'nt that great, some people have changed them for better things. But it's not a bike you just can buy anything for, to little made.
  22. well Antonio, there are more people who don't think the v11 is the best looking bike:-) the sport carb is build in 94-95, and has 18"rearwheel, conventional forks, no cushdrive in the rearwheel. The later 1100 sport i has 17"rear, Wp updide down forks, cush drive in the rear wheel. The carb was bad adjusted from factory, but at this time, that should be sorted. Technical the sport i is better, but also heavier. Get a good sport i
  23. the ones who made the bike are a guzzi, benelli and harley shop. named "High Tech Garage" http://www.hightechgarage.com The homepage isn't anything but some googling finds more details. Not of the bike:-)
  24. who is bob dylan? should I know him?
  25. Hi Mike, Sorry to hear you went down. I'm to scared for going down, that I'm always slow. I can't tell you about the pelvis, I did have back problems, that took a week before I was on my foot. How did Janice react?
×
×
  • Create New...