Paul Minnaert

to make this historical correct: the loopframes had an alternator on the engine. That frame was even higher then the tontiframe. The alternator is the same on all guzzi's as far as I know. During the years, the regulator has become more sofisticated. With a better output at low revs. The alternator gives a healty 350 W at 5000 r.p.m/min. So subtract the pump, electronics and the rest is for lighting. But not if you never come aboove 4000rpm.

I suppose finally the environment brigade has found France. That makes that they can't let the residue in the ground anymore.

Easyest way to get one is to get it direct from TLM, the ship worldwide, and accept credit cards. The normal version( glassfiber top, carbon bottom) is in stock there. From the complete carbon version, I have one made, and the problem with that is the price, I'm still discussing that with TLM, because we don't want to price it so high that noone buys one, but production costs are much higher than the first version. One comment I got from an owner: >WOW I love my seat you are an artist. It is at the painters!!!!!!!!!!!!!

You can fill them up again, as they are almost empty now. That's the easy( cheap) way. The longer and more diameter helps damping, so lets out less high tones. What is sounding very good are Bos mufflers, deas mototec sells then for the v11. You can look for muflers that have an insertable db eater, lets you adjust the sound level. Or http://www.laserexhausts.com, they have a duotech, thet has 2 levels, legal and open, depandinng on the insert that's in it. http://www.daes-mototec.de/ http://www.bos-exhausts.com

Mateu, don't confuse the lenght of the shock for the daytona and the rest! Because the different airbox on the newer bikes(all after the daytona). They had less space for the shock mounting. So my bike has original 315 lenght, going to 330 is much, the bike lifts its back twice the shock lenght addition. So 330 on my bike will raise the back 3cm. That is much to much for yours. Best thing is to get an ohlins with an L in the type, that has lenght adjustability. I do have an ohlins here, only the sping and internals have to be adjusted to my bike. If you are going to do the cp racing thing, then wait with the back, you can't seperate these things. I would look for an shock that has the original lenght, and can be extended with lenght adjustment. Most knowledge in this has Dynotec in germany. They know how much is wise to raise the back. The lenght isn't the only thing a shock should have, the 888 is a shock made for a link mechanism, completly different internal. There is an lenght adjustable Ohlins on ebay now: http://cgi.ebay.nl/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewIt...7904459320&rd=1 At the moment I have the bak 10mm higehr then original. And from that, dynotec said, that I shouln't do more because of the u-joints. But my rear is completly different then anything else, because of the long swingarm ( 460mm) ( 400mm original), and my pivot for the swingarm is a bit lower. How do I contact stille italiano? I go to sleep now. bye

I had seen that once, a mix of classic style and modern, strange with original silencers. The balance to much to the back. Not my style italano:-). What do they ask for a tank? I want a new tank, only shorthend from the back. But same shape. My subframe:

Ok, now the picture is clear. The Ohlins uses 25 mm axle, I think with a 47mm bearing. I don't know what is in the wp forks. But bearings are not a problem. A bearing shop has the right size in stock, nothing special. I have seen the cp racing story. 5 cm is a lot. I was told by dynotec that that only can be done without alternator, that's where you have the problem, when making it shorter. Dynotec makes it 25mm shorther, thats including the one degree steeper steering head. I have ghezzi& brian eccentric steering head bearings, they are one degree steeper, that makes the wheelbase 10mm shorther. Then I have also a 30mm offset triple clamp. That made some difference, but now with the light front wheel, steering has become lighter than ever. So with 10 + 15mm = 25mm the wheelbase is a bit shorter. I gained 10mm at the back with the swingarm. So that should be 35mm shorther. I'm more satisfied with the bike then ever. Part of that is also the öhlins forks. Much better than the WP. At speed changing direction is much easyer, so much that I still have to get used to it. I'm going to do a small series of tailsections as on my bike, with the subframe. Something for you? If you come back in july we can meet at the trofeo rosso in france.

that's 54 correct. You know almost nothing from your old setup fits? So I hope you have all other bits too.

Well as you could have read out of the other tread, maybe you need the swingarm pivot bolts, depending what you have now. Measure and you will know

I have used western union for a transfer to the usa, I go to the postoffice, pay the ammount, and after that, the recipient can pick up the money at an western union agent. The free was some 10% for the amount I payed. Paypal works, but both sides need to have an account, which takes time to open, and I think it's expensive.

your wife knows this?

I think it's the same lenght. And you can add the sping preload adjuster for +/- 210 euros.

almost shure youre going to brring the bike in. see this tread: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.phpshowtopic=1611

I just replaced the battery on the daytona, that is a 9Ah yuasha ytx9-bs A size smaller than the v11 thing, but this one lived 9, yes nine years. It wasn't dead but was getting weak. It's a gel type. They were used in yamaha 600cc 4cyl, what they call hare a "diversion" here, but is known with another name in other country's

For the ones who like the daes offering, just mail them, I'm shure they speak english. I got my http://www.mr-motorradtechnik.de/Lenker/lenker.html handlebars, super made, and can be adjusted in any angle. They are not so expensive as the deas handlebars.

Al, hyperpro is a dutch product. For a small country we have a lot of suspension companys. First there was WP, then hyperpro and technoflex came. All make nice high end products you can trust. The hyperpro and technoflex founders first worked at Wp, but had other ideas how to make the best thing, so started for themselves. http://www.wpsuspension.com/ http://www.technoflex-suspension.com/ http://www.hyperpro.com/

That reminds me of trying to find a comfortable seating position for my wife on the daytona. I found that going forward is a good thing, she doesn't have to bend her knees as much. So you move the footrests forward. As a try, I just used a metal bar between the points on the picture. Was quite good.

Al, if you use the sport 1100i/daytona rs hangers, you have the footrests. I don't say it's a bolt on conversion, but it can be done.

And then they say that a v11 isn't reliable

no Al, the daytona and sport carb have a 40mm wider frame. So their plates are straight, instead of the sporti and v11 ones that bend in, 20 mm aside.

for the samdich hole, you need to make 2 spacers from 20mm thick to put between frame and plates. The frame from the older bikesis 20mm wider.

Al, That's when I sell a bike, when it needs new fluids. The switch is for heated grips from "Daytona" It needs no angeling, you don't look as often on it as the speedo. And it's nice in the sightline.

between tank and steeringhead

well, I do have the kit, the sensor comes in the bolt between the cylinders were the oil lines go to the heads, so you measure the temp from the ooil going to the heads. You don't need the dash for a v11, so you order these parts: 200-116516649901 Öltemperaturanzeigeinstrument VEGLIA € 60.10 037093180 Öltemperaturgeber VEGLIA € 12.80 200-0303 Hohlschraube (Adapter) M8 zu Öltemperaturgeber, für 1100 Sport (2-Ventiler) € 19.70 On my v11 scura these parts were mounted too.

they are from http://www.mr-motorradtechnik.de/ I posted them before. Cost was 171 euro excluding tax and shipping. They are very nice finished. The guy is going to make shift and brake levers for me too, I got the rests allready, as you can see in the picture.