Paul Minnaert

Dave nice pictures, today I got mine, these are aso in a high version available

http://www.daes-mototec.de/ I allways forget a "t" in mototec, look at the right for fahrwerk, und dann Schwingenlagerbolzen.

they both are 17mm in the bearing. outside thread is m20x1 or m22x1. Or you order steanless ones from daes motec, very nice, no rust anymore. They have them in 20x1, so no machining to do.

Al, can you see if fuel presure level is adjusable? from outside or inside?

I think nothing special, standard values are: m6 = 0.8/1.2 kgm m8 = 2.5/3 kgm

head bolts m10 are 4.2/4.5 kgm, and I suppose you mean the 2 m8 nuts, they get 2.2/2.3 kgm You don't have the shop manual? you can download one in italian/french/spanish from the www.moto-guzzi.it site. I can mail it to you but you need a big mailbox

Nice pic's on that site. for the non american sport riders:

What is the problem? I suppose you have a problem you want to solve?

John, maybe the rosso's clutch is a bit different? I think I heard the scura's clutch is improved

there are 800 scura's? I know of tree with problems, is almost 0.5 %, but I'm shure I don't know all problems there are.

just raise the idle level a bit.

Al, if you search the posts from roberto, you see that the dealer has mounted a new gearbox under warranty.

The center was completly seperated and could rotate freely. The center where the bolts and shim are, is a fixed part, were the rest of the disk is vibrating. Your center is loose from the rest? Or partly? Any cracks going to the outside? My clutch had one quarter seperated, that part did the damage to the engine and box.

I would go to the dealer, and apply for warranty, even if it's out. What if it disintegrated, and you had an accident? I had the same, only mine exploded, and blast through gearbox and engine, after a few month I got a new engine and gearbox from the factory. You are lucky that you stopped early enough, few miles more..... Someone in france had the same. I had the broken clutch parts next to a new ram clutch. They look from the same production. I suppose ram made them for guzzi. So what you see, the first to fail is the centre? Because mine had one crack radiating outwards, And that looked like and old crack, so I thought the crack was first and then the centre. I think the machining of the surfaces isn't in paralel. Or badly balanced. Then vibration makes the alu crack.

Ive seen 2 boxes( grey and black) from the inside, both didn't have it. But they are painted before they are machined.

After some month, finaly ready, the mounting thing for the PVM caliper. I'm very happy with the result. More pictures of the mounted thing on my homepage

So, should these be better than Ohlins, or only cheaper? What sort of price are these?

I explained the idea here before, but now I made my own. Very simple, a piece of carbon from 21x31cm. But it can be some other material. Then a hole in it to let the shockabsorber come thrue it, some 8cm from the top. This will keep water out of the gearbox for shure. Only mounting is done with two tyraps, around the diagonal schwingarm tubes.

Albino, The 7hp is true I think, because the system is an absorbtion system, gasses flow much easyer out. It is not legal on the road, because it's making more beautiful noise, but that's up to you. This is the same for a lot of aftermarket systems, like Mistral. Only with the guzzi system, you get a new computer, adjusted to the system, so you don't need an powercommander or chiptuning.

mike, I don't think much stenght is from there. What makes a difference is the front engine mounting. And the behind the gearbox bracing. Both can be added at little cost. Or better entend your swingarm like I did.

Tim, in the how too is a section about adjusting. And if you want to know how it works, take a look here, it's from an older version, but most works the same. guzzi efi manual

maybe the spacers are all the same, but the machining of the wheels isn't all the same. I measured 2 mm difference between 2 v11 front wheels, when measuring disk to disk.

The rest of the story: The big bearing is from INA, so I called the importer from INA, is not sold other than to Guzzi. I went to TLM today. Herman heated the housing with a torch, then the big bearing came out. The small top needle bearing was easy to get out. The problem lies not in the big bearing, but the smalll neede bearing, see attached picture from what should have been a nice shiny surface. Almost half a mm from the outside is gone. Herman told me that that happens more to the v11 reardrive. So he took a new needle bearing, put it in. And than again heating the house was needed to get the big bearing in. The old one, there was nothing wrong with that. So end good all good. The big bearing costs 240 euro, but I didn't need it.

Front is easy too, one side of the wheel, a bush is comming out of the bearing, just hit that one untill the bearing on the other side pops out. then you have one left, that one is easy.

So today I took the reardrive on the bench. No way that the nut would come loose with my tool. It was so tight. Then I took the paint dstripper and heated the house , that was better. Now the nut came off. I first tried the easy way, by tightening the nut strong. But the play still was there. So that was no solution. I called TLM, to hear their experiences. They told me that the small nose bearing mostly is the first to suspect if you have this play. I decided to take the hood off. That's easy. After looking again at Pete's pics I found that my nose needle bearing has an extra thing to keep it on it's place. So there is a difference between early and later v11 rear drives. Mine is from a le mans 2001. If I move the pinion I see there is play in the nose bearing too, so that one has to go too. Now find a way to get the bearing, or leave it to tlm.