Paul Minnaert

So today I made my reardrive bearing nut thingy. The restof the work will follow soon.

Al that's the same thing as in the reardrive, you can easy take that off to the shop, I think it's metric: M10

I didn't take it apart, but you can take the hood off, and clamp a hose on it. Only the part to clamp on is not to long. I plan to make a new thingy from aluminium can''t be that hard.

The rear damper can be ordered with number mg127 at any ohlins dealer. You then get a spring preload dail with it, that you else have to buy seperate. The forks id more complicated. Ohlins doesn't sell the forks for the v11 to anyone but MG. 2 ways to go here, Or you buy another ohlins item, and adjust the bike that it fits, which requires thechnical skills and tools. Or you track down forks as mounted in the corsa/scura/cafe sport. Couple of people here have forks this way, from italy. If all can be done with 2000$ , I don't know, Al can tell you.

Al, the picture is interesting, until I see the dimensions, 6 inch long and 4.25 inch wide, how is that going to fit in your headlight?

Yes pete that's it. I hate to take the bike apart for that. So I was wondering what should keep the axle on it's place, and can be wrong?

front wheel bearings are 52x 25x 15 mm = 6205 52x 20x 15 mm = 6304 make shure you check the spacer lenght when you have things apart. Mostly they are not correct in lenght, and thats why the bearings fail. Front and rear. Maybe the spacers are correct, but the wheels aren't all the same:-) I once measured two v11 wheels I had here, the space from brakedisk disk was 2 mm different. For the rearwheel, when you take the cush drive out it's plain simple. Also there check spacer lenght.

Thanks for doing the work on this Pete, You gave me hope that I might adjust the bearing without disasembling the box. I have to make a tool like you did. On the other side waits the next chalenge, the outgoing axle from the gearbox has axial play:-(

Hi Pete, looks good until now. I can't wait until you get the rest out.

Pete, I allready made a drawing from such a tool, basicaly its a tube that you set in a milling machine and presto. And now when I think of it, take a pipe that fits just inside the nut. Then weld some small bolts( or metal pieces) on the outside that fit in the holes of the retaining nut. Way faster then waiting on anyone, see the drawing here.

HAve it up and down shifting, if it's one way, I sugest you adjust the lever a bit. There was someone who had some loose bolts at the shifterlever.

every Guzzi caries history with it. The two big ones are from the time the sport 1100i and daytonas rs were blessed with that oilpan. They had 2 oillines to the spline, instead of the one you have. So they had only the small hole left. But you are free to unplug the one you like

Al, the newer bikes are lenghted direct behind the steering head.

I never painted a tank beore too, but I think it a steep price. I don't know how much the damage is, these plastic tanks have a thick undercoat, when that comes loose, you have much more work.

But Al, if I go in the mph site , I see very detailed pictures of the risers. So Mike if you are afraid someone copies them, your pictures make it easy. I won't copy them, I never copy things if they exist. I more have the problem that what I want never exists, then I make it myself. But these are clever risers, there should be a market, especialy in the usa what seems more a touring market to me.

or drilling two tiny holes on the right place? or the cables that were stuck under the tank?

With such a deal, the pirelli guys don't get much of a tyre, if you consider exchange rate. Or are these usa pirelli's ? We pay 190 euro for rear and 140 euro for a front diablo in 120/180 wide. And that's a discount price.

Al, can't have enough pictures:-). but I found another option: MR motorradtechnik It is very well made, cost 219 euro. And adjustable. 55mm rising

Steve, I've got now new upgraded brembo brakes, sould brake much more. But that's my problem, I shouldn't brake so much. Just full speed in the corners.

I had no cupping on the bt010 until going to a track day, see the result. But apart from that I'm very happy with the bt010, then always give a feel of grip. Worst cupping I had was with michelins tx11 or something. Most cupping comes from braking hard.

It's only a supplement, not more than on that webpage. Mine is a copied version. And it's only the standard öhlins setup.

al, the scura booklet says: forks, rebound( screw in the bottom) 13 clicks from fully closed compression, (screws in center of the top) 13 clicks from fully closed, spring preload(nuts on top) 13 turns. from open. coincidence it's all 13? lucky number:-) shock: rebound, 14 clicks from closed compression 12 from closed preload 15mm.

Al, what spring number do you have? I noticed that a v11 ohlinsshock I had in my hands, was a 85kg sping on, yours too? BTW, I think 85kg is to heavey

there is an extensive tread about that called "hollow front axle" In short almost nothing!,If you have the forks we have. If you buy aftermarket for soem other bike, you will have to get new or modified triple clamps. What makes it more expensive.

bike upright in left hand, put the ting under it with right. Or while it's on the sidestand, put the left thing on the right place, slowly move the bike to upright position, and position the right one too. But without prctice, I found it easy.