Paul Minnaert

No al, this is WP race forks. The color might be the same.

You must have a shortage in the lighting circuit. I suppose the control lights in the dash don't work anymore? But can also be the turn indicators. see on this site the scematics V11 Sport Wiring Diagram

No I didn't lower the back, but I have one degree steeper stearingheadbearings, and 30mm triple clamps to 40mm from the V11. I have the steering damper loose! Does this look like the back is lowered?

the v11 le mans forks are 760mm ducati does 730 mostly. I've been looking at a duc dealer, but all monsters he had, were not with the 54mm up and down mount. All with at the top a smaller mount than bottom. I have 730mm now, where my original guzzi(marzochi) was 760. So it's more on the nose, groundclearance is no issue, unless you do offroad riding.

Al, what do you want, if you have throuble with suspension, let your current forks modify by a specialist. Of if you want to have the 43 because you have the last thing, then better buy ohlins. I looked up the v11 forks price, that's 1500 euro ex vat. For that money you also can have ohlins, think about that. I can't resist so I'm going the ohlins way. If you are interested, I can make you an offer for new ohlins forks.

price in italie is around 600 euro. If your dealer doubles that, you can fly to italie to get one cheaper:-)

One other reason for choosing the sohc construction, is the build height of the heads. BMW uses the same construction in the 4V heads on the boxers. Just today I tried the V11 tank on a centauro, the tank should be mounted 3 cm higher, because of the heads, I knew inteam did this, see previous posts. So I rang them, they did the same with the 4v in the v11, I never noticed. Maybe warming up the tank to make an extra dent in will also do, but I don't know PE ( poly ethyleen) enough.

Well Al, you say it yourself: a well tuned 2V can have as much power as a standard daytona. A standard daytona with only other silencers has around 90HP at the wheel. A C-kit cam gives 10Hp extra. The daytona RS has that as standard. Different levels of tuning are posible, Dynotec tuning brings 136 Hp at the crank at the blue daytona on my site. Dynotec's racing engine is 156HP! At that level not much is from the factory anymore. And as I have seen, the cosworth crank wasn't up to that much power and broke. Big bore? default 92mmX 78mm course. can go to 100mm x 78 gives 1250cc, or with a 82 stroke to 1388cc And the looks? I couldn't find the picture from the V11 with 4V engine it was nice. I love the raw alu look of a guzzi, that's why I don't like black engines, they hide the engine. The bigger the engine the better. See this page: 4V in le mans

Well if you don't go all the way, this is a pretty straight bolt on, But eaysier to swop the engine.

Yes ,then I have to awser. The easyest way is to get a used daytona engine, I know one for sale for I think 2000 $. Including injection. inteam in germany has put a centauro engine in a v11, looks great real cilinders in a V11!. I looked for a picture on there site, but that was gone. It still means fiddeling, basicaly the engine fits, only the front engine hangups on the frame need modification, because the belts are needing some place. Clutch engine just fits. You are right that the origin for the daytona engine is from a 2V. What changed is the position of the cilinder bolts( more distance, so now a 100mm bore is easy), in the prototype engine they welded material onto it. So heads from a daytona will never fit on a 2v. Then the belts need some drive, they changed a lot of parts to get that going. If youre not an enginebuilder with a lot of thime, buy a daytona engine for your baby. Some people have the time and skills, see this page: http://www.classickawasakiclub.com/

I just got my self desiged mufler from the workshop. The look is great. Sound is a bit loud, esspecialy because you are nearer to the place where sound comes out. I will make more pictures when I have a digicam again. But for now look and soundfile on my homepage under v12 Homepage link in the signature

I ride now without, and feel no difference. What they can do, is change the frequence where the bars wib, and that can be better, But depends on the weight, the handlebar strenght and lenght, and the frequency(revs) that need to be filtered out. So it depends on a lot of variables if it works for you. They will lower the frequency where you have the problem.

For the BT020 lovers, there is a new better bt020nt version. I have the bt 010 now, can't say how long they last, don't care either:-). Doing track days to, where they get the melted look.

OR the tank is moving because of the weight from the gas, or I would check the bolts that mount the front engine subframe to the frame, These bolts tend to come loose, I lost one once, and a friend too. I do mount them with a little loctite. When you take the tank off you can see all. Or 3rd option, There is something realy wrong with the frame and then you need to contact your dealer. It is a new bike, so there can be some production fault.

You shouldn't worry about pump pressure, It will suck the fuel out of the tank if the tank is laying on the ground , I did that, with extended fuel lines, handy when you want the bike to run with the tank off. The pump does: Delivery: 26.5 gal/hour at 44 psi with 12V power supply. The pump draws about 4.5 amps. so where you place it, doesn't matter, the push is great enough. And it pushes most of the gas back in the tank, through a valve, adjusted at 36psi If you want to see how it works, do a google search for efiman.pdf

Yes, but the same thing is now on the back cover, on my daytona '94 it is. And if it's not now, why shouldn't I make it on the 6 speed box?

Broken spring, can be reached from behind then starterengine. Search a bit in the forum and you will find it. It is a warranty issue.

Yes that may work, but if it don't, you maybe have to wait months for a spare part from guzzi . And I think it's a bit short to let the hose stay on it. But you got the idea.

Al, the swingarm thing is the way to do it, could take a piece of carbon for it, looks trick. The gearboxvent thing, I have such a thing now to, is badly constructed. After a track day on Assen, I have seen some oil around it. So I'm planning to take the vent off and attach a piece of rubber to it, just like all 5 speed boxes have. It leaves the pressure out, but nothing in. And for the underseat thing, Jaap should post a picture how his bike is there.

my stock daytona with k&n pods, stock muflers and other crossover did 86hp at the wheel, with open muflers that would have been 90hp.

WP is owned by KTM Paioli is owned by Kayaba

In my 4v are ngk R series used, they have a double electrode. I don't know if it works better, it's more if you believe in it. Maybe for very high reving engines it makes a difference.

What you must do, is use the plastic cone that's going into the airbox, and mount the pod on that. Mounting the pod directly onto the Tbody won't do it. I have my pods on the plastic cone. So the length is the same. For me, the pods were estethical, and pracitical, as I have no place left for the box. I hope the police won't get me for to much sound, but things are getting worse here in europe, especialy parts of germany and switserland, where the swiss thake the whole bike, and then see for yourself that you get it back from the police But I think I have to experience it myself, before I take action. At the moment I have a silencer under the gearbox made!

You know the v11 2000 manual online? http://www.angelfire.com/weird2/v11 I know there a different parts used, but this one is free. Do you need replacement parts allready? Your dealer should be able to help with the partnumbers.