luhbo

Well, this is the subforum for 'Everything Non-Guzzi and Redneck Trash-Talk', albeit it could as well be filed under '24/7', this being a topic definitely affecting everydays' life in my opinion. Law enforcement agencies actively and/or passively (time will tell), through their agents and officers, are killing citizens, and others look actively away, being afraid of whether their GPS system will be charged right in time before they start for a fun tour. Or they look actively away saying that they never have done such things during their 35 years in service. Latest update over here: coroners report that this man died not only because a police officer was kneeling on his neck for minutes but also because two other men, also wearing the badge as you call it, were sitting on his back during the same time. Three men on one body. I don't think that's something that could be flushed. Flush it and it's out of sight, in reality that's the point where the unappetising part of the procedure begins.

What sort of democracy can it be where it's official police procedure, taught at police schools, to kneele on a man's neck? On a man's neck who's hands are already tied up on his back and who's laying face down on the floor? And what sort of democracy can it be where the jurisdiction needs more then a week, if they ever will some day at all, to even react when people get killed by something like that? A policeman kills a citizen while three of his colleagues hold back the crowd so that the officer can eventually finish his job? And this for over 8 minutes? Enough time to smoke three cigarettes? I don't get it.

All I ever read is "perfect bike, but the poor power". Well, proven 78 is more than my 'real' 850ies ever could deliver. How the times are changing ...

Actually I find him quite watchable, now that he has come down, and calmed down, that far.

Had the same after some time in rainy weather. It's always nice to read about people making miles although it rains

Ist doesn't matter, sure, but here you pay 10 per wheel plus 3 for dumping the old tyre. I don't know any of you folks, but I remember well Todd's silly, angry and incompetent rants against Tuneboy and MyEcu. That was a long time ago, tho

Looked it up. Man, now I need one. Aren't they cute? All that chrome and brass and those levers and and and ...

No, better check the oil upright. Too much oil is no problem as long as you don't rev the bike in Super Sports mode and as long as the rest of the engine, rings and pistons, are ok. And they are ok on a V11. The breather exhales into the airbox, plenty of room there. You probably made another fault I'd say.

Yep. I feel safer when I ride as if I were invisible. Or as Docc correctly wrote: they pull out in front of 'full bright' fire trucks anyway. Besides that this attitude makes me feel as if I could safely ride on in my dark riding gear: waxed muck over black Dainese leathers

Would be a pity if the whole thread would crash at this point In fact blinding or over-modulated lights are rather dangerous for the source itself. Brains tend to lock in in this case. Either they shut off completely or they focus their aggressiveness on that prick. @po18guy: did you wonder why they call it 'Infitary'? This word reminds me of something ...

It is, yes. But I swapped the heads at around 150.000. The guides were worn out, also the camshaft and, most of all, the tappets. I don't think it made much difference performance wise, I'm maybe not that sensitive, but it developed substantial noise above 7500. The first time it's rather frightening when you suddenly rev into a massive valve clatter. Surprisingly it didn't do any damage to the valves or the pistons, although it very much sounded so.

5 angle cut, with a different seat angle, indeed is good practice. A friend once called his tool for this his "tuning steel" That was 40 years ago. Maybe today I just lack a bit the fire of those days. On the positive side: today I always find a ready assembled and ready to run motorcycle when I open the garage door. When I talked about different cams as doable and interesting experiments then there should be enough time for such easy head modding as you described it. Let's see, I have a spare engine left from my previous V11, maybe I'll put part of my interest in this direction next year. Tuning then is something different as Hot-Rodding.

In reply to Pressureangle: In your post I'm missing the terms 'laminar flow' and 'turbulent flow', and I'm missing an explanation for the difference between them and also an explanation of how they affect the possible charge or 'grade of delivery' in a given port geometry with sharp bends underway and then a straight connection between in and out. According to my humble understanding of fluid/aero dynamics the Guzzi heads, 2-valve especially, with their sharply bent inlet ports and relatively huge valves are designed pretty close to what is possible. The overall shape still might look the same as in 1966, but actually the V11 and even more the later and last 2Vs were absolutely top notch. These engines are nearly on the same level as Ducati's Desmo 2Vs which can benefit from much easier geometrical constraints and, on top of that, a much quicker valve train. So, personally I wouldn't expect too much for my Guzzi money if put into porting work. I'd rather experiment with cams and airbox mods, the more as here the mods always can be undone.

Sounds as if it is an English bike ... Wait, my LMIII has that, too. I never really noticed it until now. Maybe that was a part of riding in analog times. Ride, burn fuel, have fun. Don't talk about it to the internet. Battery empty -> recharge. Shocks wobbly -> ignore. Yet, somehow I can't remember flat batteries or wobbly shocks or other annoying things. A tank was 20 litres was 20 Marks. Now it's 15 litres and 50 Marks. But I have a special forum for every single bike I own. Substantial progress was really slow the last 30, 40 years, wasn't it?

I guess peaks wouldn't do much harm. Besides that 30A x 14V make for over 400W, well beyond what the alternator can deliver, not to mention the losses in the regulator and wiring etc. In my opinion it's only a matter of cheap non-automotive fuse holder contacts.

could be also some sort of quick bodging to position the shaft lenghtwise. You checked the shimming of the shafts?

still better than butcher it.

That hurts, man ..

Usually it's a small rectangular slot near the center contact, but I've also seen switches without one.

He're some pics from my 2017 experiment. This thingy cost me about 8 Euros, so there wasn't much to be expected resp. lost. The pattern was useless, the voltage regulator got burning hot, a complete failure I'd say. BTW: following this thread I learned I could have tried to adjust or improve the pattern somehow. The pictures below were taken with the bulb as it came from CN. Nonetheless, I still wouldn't expect very much besides "blinding" or burning me I do like their motto, though: "Open your eyes to accept the light!" - Guzzi Moto, they meant you

That's the front side only, by night and by day. On the rear side, daytimes, you can't see the flashing LED indicators between the brake lights. VW Rabbit is a typical and infamous example. Don't know how they managed it to get these miserable things officially road worthy ...

That's the standard procedure also for dead oil pressure switches. Same system, same problems. I'm using Uhu-Plus for this, a standard 2K Epoxy glue. Part of the problem are the small venting holes in combination with power cleaners like S100 or the like.

We definitely do so. Definitely interested. Definitely not wanting to piss off anyone Really, in fact I'm a bit tired of reading or writing about different Hawker types for instance, I rather fancy a topic like this one

While I follow your guys' experiments with great interest I follow them also with equally great scepticism. Cooling is a big issue because the issue starts directly below the light emitting stuff itself. A fan one inch behind the HOT spots cannot help if this primary bonding is somewhat suboptimal. So, being keen myself on finding a good LED replacement for my H4 bulbs I'm afraid that this won't happen. Mainly because of two reasons: it's more than tricky to pack several relatively big and hot LEDs on a spot small enough to match the reflector's geometry, second an H4 headlamp is a closed system, screen and mirror build a rather sealed unit, what makes proper cooling even harder. So my strategy would be: either keep it cheap and make compromises or spend bigger money and buy a reliable, lasting professional replacement headlight. But then it's 600 bucks and more, I guess.