luhbo

I was quite seriously searching for a good exmple. But I neither found a bad one. They seem to be quite rare. Hubert

Life can be simple, and to have fun with it it should be kept so, indeed! Let me trow in just two other questions: - why do engineers at BMW, VW, Mercedes or if you want GM, Rover, Guzzi, Weber-Marelli, Bosch and so on, why do they not just buy a cheap dyno, a cheap Tunelink and related stuff? Why do they not just make a quick WOT run and then after that enjoy their easy life with all that much money they get for having fun the whole half day? - what do you think is the reason for inventions like those most of the Jap bikes now have implemented in their exhaust systems? I'm talking of these exhaust-throttle systems, however they call them. It's basically the same, a throttle flap or blade, controlled by the ECU. If WOT would be the only important thing, then why not WOExhaust as well? Max power probably will be found somewhere at WOT, but surely not over the whole RPM range we use our bikes at. I really cannot imagine that tuning the entire range of Max. Load points to Max. Power can be achieved with a quick dyno run for 150 to 300 USD. Alone the price is ridiculous. These prices can be found in the ECU thread and are not of my origine. How long will it take to mount the bike on the dyno and to unmount it when ready? Are there any costs while the dyno stands still, letting the engine cool down? The max.load points probably vary from some 20% throttle at low RPMs to WOT at higher RPMs. If you have found and tuned them you should of course smoothen out the rest of the map above and below this string of max.load points as well. That's basically how I think mapping and tuning should be done, regardless what tools you use, O2 probe or EGA, dyno or break, TuneEdit or PCIII. This is work, probably hours of work. What do think this should cost? 150 or 300 USD? More? Maybe much more? You have the saying "You'll get what you pay for!" And those who yet don't have enough could mind about things like spark advance, ECUs in acceleration mode while sweeping on the dyno, ECUs in normal mode when more or less static on the road and so forth. I mean, have fun with your bike and stuff, but don't loose track. To supply a USB interface and software for everyone is not neccesarily the solution for all your problems with your toys. Hubert

That's not really true, if not just wrong. First, WOT is not more but WOT, throttle fully open. Load instead is a result of the effectiveness of delivery at a certain RPM (if I translate it correct). In other words: the output depends on how much input you have, and this input, the amount of burnt Air/Fuel mixture, is not necessarily proportional to the opening angle of the duct blades. Second, you're rather seldom on a straight, unobstructed line. The rest of the time the bike is accelerating (to focus only on the interesting part), and best accelerating on the road IMHO can be achieved only with the proper throttle opening, unless you are on the track and rev it only between 6000 and the limiter. Pictures that show WOT curves from 1500 to 8500 RPM with underlaying AFR curve are more or less senseless. Hubert

And for europeans it would be quite cheap also! I'd grab it and sell mine. I paid 5200,- Euros for my green 99/2000 with 45000 km on its back. Hubert

Yes, it's him. His feedback is not too bad, indeed. Anyway, e.g. Termignonis with ECU, new, for 300,- Euros. How does he make ends meet? In his last eMail he said he wants cash. I think cash is cash, not a synonym for money in general, isn't it? But what sort of articels have to be paid with cash or should not go through customs? He obviously runs a shop or something like that, why does he have so much problems with mailing his stuff to other european countries? Well, it's up to him. Thanks for all your advice. I'd like to jump in on Slugs friendly offer, but as he's Seattle based that's no option, sadly. Hubert

I recently bought a pair of Marzocchi fork legs on ebay, the nitride coated Tenni version. Now the seller has problems with sending them to Germany. Don't wanna start a discussion about Europe or the Royal Mail now, as I have sent and received enough goods from your island to know that it works Today my sons bow came, all the way down from Scotland with no problems! This fellow won't even accept my VISA card details, don't ask me why. He's just unnable. Now someone of you could be helpful in two ways 1. maybe some UK member here wants to trade his Quat-D exhaust for this Tenni fork or 2. some UK member would be so gracious to receive the money from me, then pay and receive the fork from the seller and finally send along the fork to my address in Germany. So, if someone feels the urgent need to volunteer for this annoying procedure then his PM to me would be most appreciated. Thank you very much Hubert

Interesting point, although it should be common with all hydraulic dampers here. They need to be under pressure to be able to work horizontaly, don't they? BTW, the Tonti frames always had their wheels misaligned, some up to 2cm and more. Shifted parallely or offset. Most people that wanted to use a bigger tyre just added another spacer to make room for it, without any issues. Does anyone already have an answer at hand, why some tyres tend to wear out only on one side? Hubert

Can you open it and remove the catalyzer?

Get well soon and good luck for the surgery. You can need it probably. Hubert

To recommend a hammer is probably not that what really brings you a step forward, eh? That's too bad, I was just getting interested in this exhaust. Thank you for the hint. Hubert

Hey, you're kiddin', aren't you? You get this whole lot more or less for free or at least very much cheaper. Go and buy a promer at ebay, ready with software and adaptor and grab the freeware of Wayne Orwig or MPH. What more do you need? Everything else like an O2 probe and such things you have to buy anyway if you want to do more than just fumble around a bit. BTW, get in contact with World-of-Guzzi.de, there is one guy giving away these WM16 eproms for free or at least for some nice souvenir from Greece in your case. As I understood you know some German words, so why not. But, this Rapid Bike looks like a very powerful PC alternative, no DirectLink but instead advance control.

I doubt this. On carbs you still have Bernoulli working and helping but, he died long before EFI was invented Hubert

Yes, it works this way, with the mystic box. I once gave a valid WM15 eeprom to a colleague to see what is inside. He put it in his magig box, and after that it was as virginal as it was once sold. Totally empty. That's what I call magic. For the 16M there are other applications also, e.g. Wayne Orwig's ECUEdit. A quick search will bring it up. Hubert

The washers don't look right. The pot has its back hanging, this looks not as I'd like it to look. Do you think you could bend the front inlet tubes a bit, so that the back could come up to where it should be? The contour should follow the tire as well. Hubert

So it looks, indeed. Switch the red with the black one and check wether it works. If it works better but still not perfect, switch red with yellow. Do you have a multimeter at hand? If not you'd definitely buy one. It's probably not your last electric action once you've got the taste of it. BTW, if you start thinking about things like "why do I have a yellow cable there, the book says grey here" then you've already got track of the bigger mysticisms of italian bikes hubert

The My15M would give you also the option to install extra transistors for operating the extra coils on their own. At least you had someone at hand you could ask how to implement this. Maybe a My15m with D/P Piggy Back PCB Hubert

What do you want to say? Would it be cheaper to buy these new heads or not? Do you know anything about compression ratios? The specs at least are different. Hubert

Does it crank with the ECU unplugged? It's probably not the worst option Hubert

You have any pix so I can warn these fellows around my son?

Oh shit, if I'd known it earlyer I'd probably had visited the shop. We've been near Jedburgh 'Farm Stay UK!' for two weeks this summer (no v11, only a brandnew Ford elsewhat) and Galashiels was not that far away. I think we've been there 3 or four times anyway, but such things normaly are hard to find in any guide. It's been a great time in the Borders. Lovely weather, the nicest people, really holidays. My elder son is in archery, so he wanted to go there and visit Border Bows. Is anybody knowing Sid from B/B? Hubert

Oh, that's not the problem. I'm always careful, at least I try to do my best. But we're not perfect, not at all! We're made some ten thousand years ago or even more. We're still those troglodytes, not capable to operate properly the machines we're able to create if we take our time. This is fact. It gives me no safety if I look at horrible pix. Next time when I should remember a bit of the fear they make me now I will eventually look at the legs of the girls standing there and remember other things. But I'm happy that you understand fully now. It really began coming at me. Thanks for the good wishes, same to you

Martin, what was the name of this driver? Hubert

Hi Ratchet, it's just science. Medicine, Psychology, Behavioral Research, such things. You can read about all this in "Bernd Spiegel: Die obere Hälfte des Motorrads; Motorbuch Verlag". I can really recommend it. As the diphtongs imply, it's german, and available also only in german, sorry. To make a long book short: How often have you been riding for miles and can afterwards not remember what you have seen and done? I mean really remember, make a list and swear on this list. Or do you push your bike around corners where you can not see how the street goes on? No, you do not, you think you reduce the speed enough and then go on. What will happen if there's a dead cat laying in the middle of your way? Shit will happen. So you're not driving really safe, you just do something what you think is safe! Others think different. You'r human, others as well. Who acts silly, the one braking his neck on a bloody dead and stinky corps of a lousy cat behind a hidden corner or the one blown off the street at 178 plus? I'm not sure and so I should be better careful with judging (now and here I am, in real life not always ) This is the mechanism I was talking about in the previous posting. There is one very good example for what the cerebrum/cerebellum do in the mentioned book: next time if you suffer from a bad hickups, just watch what your body exactly does and then try to provoke the next hickup. Most people (one should be carefull with 'you' ) will find, that exactly in this moment the hickups has gone. It seems strange, but that's what science is sometimes. Hubert Safety First! Do not forget this...

I don't know how exactly the US versions run, but the european Guzzis perform very well. Maybe not out of the box, but carefully adjusted exactly how the book says it they are running very well! In most cases they suffer from two things: first owners who know everything better and adjust here and there or just have two left hands, and second shops that know everything better and adjust here and there or have stuff with two left hands. If you look e.g. how some cut down the airboxes, remove snorkels, add silly tubes normaly meant for connecting their loo and so on, no wonder that in most cases the bikes run like crap. Leave the bike as it comes, adjust it carefully, means literally tune it perfectly, and then enjoy it. That's exactly what is done with 99% of the Jap bikes. If your Guzzi seems to be f## up it is probably fu## up. This is my experience and believe. No need to switch! Hubert