luhbo

No no no no, personally I'm dreaming from different things. That's not my site. It's an interesting one anyway. Hubert

Look here, how the proper use of grinding tools can help your ego! http://www.taunus-biker.de/~mdvp/Mille/Rubbel.jpg Hubert

Hi Juha, I was thinking about buying a new narrow band sensor and mount it instead of the one I have now. This probably has more then 100,000 km, I have removed the tip-cover and welded the whole thing on a drilled M12 bolt. These parts were all that I had at hand when I decided that that was the sunday to bring it to an end. Then I looked around and found that new sensors are not cheap at all! Ebay sells them for approx. 50,- Euros, shops not below 100,-. Still using such a probe means "living on the edge". Look alone at the effects different temperatures have, especially at the wanted 0.8 volts. I now bought a kit from tech-edge, that comes complete with controler, cable, Bosch LSU4, display and logging software for about 250,- Euros when I remember right. It is on its way now since more than 2 weeks, the money is paid even longer. The main reason to buy it besides the better accuracy was the option to use it also on other, Dell'Orto bikes. I will tell you when this stuff finally has arrived... Hubert

I'm afraid that there is not much we can expect from closed loop (for series-bikes)! Besides, what about all those bikes with o2-sensor and catalysator (every? new Guzzi). Closed loop straight from the OEMs is important only under environmental aspects, means if you have to go at lambda=1. But if you want to get the most out of your engine there is no need of an catalysator, so why closed-loop from the factory, and for a high performance sports bike? I do not think that BMW and MZ have variable O2 or AFR targets stored in their ecus. If so they are just cheating the governmental offices responsible for the traffic. Hubert

Hello I am the one in Germany that has a My15M kit assembled and running it under everyday conditions (commuting 70km oneway). So far it was fun under all aspects. I ordered a complete kit with Optimizer and backlit-panel. The kit arrived after just some days, no customs problems or anything like this. Assembly was straight forward, though I had to look at the instructions quite seriously. There are ofcourse no soldering instructions or pictures of how the parts should look. After some delay while I was trying to get a 15M for the connector at a reasonable price I could finally go on the bike and give things a try. I had to use the map of Cliff's Sport 1100 what worked fine. The only problem was a fault in the wiring diagramm of the V11. Guzzi changed the wiring of the TPS, but not the diagramm. Compare the one from 2000 with that of the new ones with Lambda-probe. On the road there was no remarkable difference! This was surprising, I thought I should notice something more spectacular, the more as before I had an optimized eprom (what btw. had struck the Guzzi down once) and now it was running with a stock map from a different bike. (I know people who say finetuning the TPS and a carefully done synchronisation give a similar effect with the stock ECU) The next step was the installation of a well used narrow-band O2 sensor, purchased at my local wrecker. This brought the My15M to life. Running it closed loop showed up that the engine was running somehow way too rich. This was true, because the autotune capability of my15m gave a map that was leaner, but without negatively affecting the driveability. It lost some punch, true, but that's only natural when you have lambda=1 as target for the entire map. On the other hand the fuel consumption went down from 6.5 to 5.7 litres/100km as we calculate it here. Important for you may be that the whole affair of adjusting the map could be done in only some days. I was not on the highway and did not do any special tuning rides, just sat down and rode off. What I will try next is a true wideband sensor. I hope this will give more accuarate results. Also it will enable me to find a fuel map with 0.8 as lambda target. With the help of excel and a lambda=1 map I will then be able to figure out a map that has 0.8 for full load and 1 or even 1.2 for other cells, thus improving further power output and economy. Let me mention, that running with leaner maps it makes a huge difference what spark-advance I have. Runnig leaner the engine needs definitively more and this does affect the driveability. That's my experience. What is weaker than before is the coldstart, but this may not be so much a problem for you, because coldstart for me meant cranking at -2°C. It always did start anyway, but I always needed 3 or 4 attempts. Give it a try, I have a lot of fun with it! Hubert

Hi to all, since 2 month or so I have a My15M in my V11 and so far it is working quite well. The last 4 weeks I had also a narrow-band lambda sensor installed and was on the road with it for aprox. 1000 km (commuting 70km one direction). I can proof what Juha wrote before. Even with a cheap narrowband sensor it's quite easy and fast to get a very usable and effective map. The My15M or My16M software has the capability to autotune the map, normaly you do this exactly on those roads where you usually use your bike. So what can one want more? Nevertheless I am also going to install a wideband sensor (WBO2.com), because they should respond very much quicker and should of course show exactly where beyond lambda=1 I am. Also I am afraid that those narrowband sensors are not really capable to deal with high loads. Cruising around mine works perfectly, "tutta la birra" it is reacting as if the engine runs way too rich! What am I planning? I think I have two possibilities. One would be to work out a lambda=1 map first, then modify this with excel or whatever to have certain cells lambda=0.8 or 1.1 or so and use this map then "open loop". The other one basically would be the same, starting already open loop and logging the entire map (going through the map horizontally and up and down). The result then could also be corrected via some spreadsheet. I think the above is only possible if you have your actuall map at hand, means that you know how much your ecu injects at e.g. 5000-50% thottle. I have this possibility using the My15M ecu. With a power commander and the original WM unit I could do nothing like that. In these terms a power commander is just another black box you have to carry around. Greets, Hubert