luhbo

The Non-R plugs are easy to get. So why do you not change the plugs? Too easy or what? I too wouldn't want two resistors. But instead of trying to get answers by applying Ohm's law to such a highly capacitiv, sorry - must be inductive, and highly dynamic problem I'd suggest to compare Osci pics of the resulting sparks. I havent seen this equipment since years, but normally any good car shop still should have it.

Wayne Orwig had a nice collection of schematics for electronical gadgets on his now sadly defunct website. I picked myself one for a voltage indication bi-colour LED, going from red over orange to green. Assuming the regulator is a quite digital unit, say it either works or not, the light should be red engine off and light orange/green engine running. Bright green indicates above 15V, cooking the battery, staying red indicates no charge, draining the battery. Nice gadget and enhancement to my speedo scale

Probably the most underestimated model ever. I'd say 99% of them got crippled to LMs or naked Cafe Racers, at least in Germany.

If we would pay halve as much attention and religious efforts to suspension topics as we do to whether the battery must see 13.5 or 14.3 (and all in-between)this would be another place here

Go fast - turn left. No new idea ...

Once there was a discussion to the same topic with Dr.Jekyll and Mr.Hyde, aka DLaing/?? (forgot his name, anyone can help out?). An option was to somehow add a small tube to the pressure valve for bringing the backflow to the other side of the saddle. All nice and easy, just the "somehow" wasn't too clear. On the other hand I'd be afraid that such a solution would turn the usual rather empty tank downhill cutoff into into a final 'from here on we walk' full stop.

The gasket of the main bearing sees the full oilpressure, so work carefully when you decide to pull the shield.

I'd just carefully dot-weld it back. On the other hand it would be nice to know where the crack goes, whether it compromises the shaft itself.

The internet reports successfull greasing experiencies, personally I never had that much luck (or not the right tools). What I do once a year is remove the swingarm, optionally with/also the shaft. You then cannot only reach the nippels, you can also clean up afterwards.

Worn guides but good seats? New valves and old seats? Doing only one seldom makes sense. If this type of work is due I'd always visit a professional engine shop, never ever a Guzzi dealer with rattly equipment, dull tools and whatever more those also continuosly going out of business sheds can offer. Professional equipment costs big money - but gives equaly big results.

Look on the head for exact specs. The bolts are 12.x plus Loctite Medium. Also look up how to torque them - I think it was 40Nm or so, but I'm guessing here. I reused mine btw. Properly torqued they aren't stretched. Don't mind the colour of your plates, for me they're looking good. Loose friction plates are garbage. You may weld a lever to one of them and use it for blocking the input wheel.

Your bike's condition should match your's only. You really need all parts new?

Harpers' - is that a british design?

Always fancied the -O- words, so Jack-O-Mans is what I would call it.

If it's a RC then GuzziDiag offers an option to uncheck the Lambda input IIRC. That's one for the experts like Meinolf e.g. You should also be able to reset the Lambda correction tables. I remember the 15M-RC as the crispier version than the older 15M. But that's rather a personal matter. What I had then was a Breva box, firmware basically untouched, only the fuel and spark maps were overwritten with V11 values. Lambda detection was hot, of course, made no problems either.

Docc, you can read me? Don't go this route. The standard V11 clutch assembly is already on the (lower) edge mass-wise. If you want to put some more dynamics into your ride then better invest in lighter wheels. These infact are too massy. Engine braking will not be reduced, it will be increased. Pulse loads on the drive train won't be reduced, they'll be increased. Clutch problems wont be reduced - think you get the picture from here on. Idle won't be improved. Spare situation won't be improved.... Instead, IAEF, I'd investigate possibilities to switch to heavier LMIII assemblies for instance. Guzziology quotes a fast bike that uses an old Eldo clutch, that's maybe twice the weight of a V11 one. He seemed quite happy with it. Or you just stick the parts together and have fun with your V11 as it is. Don't know why this option usually is so grossly underestimated.

I didn't think of the back and forth DOF. But is this axis a problem? The engine pulses in another plane, and the wear we see on the splines surely comes from the radial rattle. Back and forth would be axial. Anyhow, I see a good chance that holding in the clutch at stops in 1st gear or at other occasions isn't really that bad, maybe more weal than woe even. Really bad for the clutch and the splines is probably being hard on the throttle at lower revs, let's say below 3 or maybe 4k. And then, Docc's V11 has seen some miles, why should the parts look as new? The usual life span of a motorcycle is below 50.000, everything above is a bonus for the owner and lost profit for the manufacturer. See it this way.

Make them black or night grey and apply rim stickers in G/W/R (Tri Colore). http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/MTYwMFgxMjAw/z/RmQAAOSw3KFWeY9I/$_1.JPG

I had a 15RC running without probe for a couple of thousands without any problem (that was pre GuzziDiag times). So for a short test you can plug in whatever comes handy.

I'm not buying that. There's no play between the clutch plates and intermediate plate when the clutch is released.Have you ever seen any wear between clutch- and intermediate plates? Make a sketch of the torque path through the clutch, from the crankshaft to the gearbox input shaft. Mark where the play is and compare this with the pix posted. Also worth a thought: people hold in the clutch because they keep in the first gear. So obviously the entire lower half of the drivetrain stands still. From rear wheel to the clutch disks. No movement, no wear.

Makes me jealous!

All parts that can be moved or shifted relativ to each other must have some play between them. That's why and where they rattle. The torque goes over the teeth, not over the springs.

They rattle anyway, just with the whole lump of gearbox etc. behind them. And always into the same groove. Pull in and they get lighter and hammer on different points. Make a sketch. BTW, you remember the days, when every honnest Guzzi rider had to bore the end drive cushions, or better even get rid of half of them? Or when motor braking was deadly sinn No 1? Or when it was a definite must to add a diode to the Reg harness, otherwise you'd definitely end with a dead battery (just as a side note)? The cushions, IIRC their hardness was the problem. They didn't kill directly the battery but sooner or later for sure the rest of the bike. I think someone even started a 'Comfy Cushions' sourcing campaign. Others made a sketch of it,too. Some years earlier, way ahead of their times obviously

Why is it so bad for the clutch if you hold it in at stops? At least for the input gear this should make life much easier. For the friction plates it should make no difference. Even the pressure plate as well as the other one, which I right now can't name in you lingo, would normaly have some benefit from being able to rattle independly from each other and free from the masses of f-disks and gearbox parts. The only part having hard times would be the small axial needle bearing, but that is what it's made for. Last, but not least, when you hold in the clutch, all the usual hammering comes to a halt. This could be a good sign,too, I think.