luhbo

Yes, don't fry your expensive Hawker. Maybe the red light indicates just a faulty regulator. Then it's not necessarily a non charging issue as it was with the older Bosch alternators up to the LMIII or so.

I think it was the one. I remember it was something easy.

Try the plug wrench

From my experience I can say that it makes not very much difference whether you have a leak there or not. But I notice that the engine is running way too rich. Maybe because it does hardly run at all actually. Nonetheless I'd check the head temperature sensor next, if you haven't done it alreadyet. The manifolds should be grey or even white on the first 3 or 4 inches. It's a nice photo for Tinitus as it proofs that most V11 are built somewhat differently to what the books say. The Greenies at least:)

The RM is 2°Series, they came without these parts. I don't know the early 'crown' versions of '99/2000, maybe they needed them. Don't bother, you would have noticed that something's missing. The manifold's also different to that pictured here.

Nice pictures there, nonetheless. The KR I acquired in Italy last year sports a solution quite similar to the one shown in the picture above. Italian style, though, but still functionable Anyway, I never heard of spring braking inside a KR gearbox, no tales, no stories.

You could listen carefully, now that you think it might be the gasket. That would be check enough. And then replace them anyway. They're cheap and easy to get by. Blowby at this point is a very strange, irregular and high pitched twitter.

Check the exhaust manifold gasket. Ed.: ...although the VIMEO video from last year sounds different. Anyway, mine sounds best when I have my ears plugged, means I could hear all I want in such videos. It's a rattly lump this engine The RM Candy Red is quite nice by the way

Room 29, Cocker/'Gonzales'. Buy the album. Great as background for all kind of maintenance work.

You'll hear from me

I ordered one, too, I should confess. Not that I found the standard setup to be insufficient for night rides, what annoys me is vasting the high output bulbs to 100% daylight commuting. That and curiosity, of course. I used the link you posted, it's still on its way. Re-reading my last posting I guess a decent PWM modulator and some expensive 'Drill the Dark Nightbreaker' bulb would be the way to go, but then there's still this curiosity thing while the PWM thing still is not.

Can you go a bit more into detail about the virginity you mentioned in the head line? Years ago we had an interesting thread about women and the sexiness of Guzzi and vice versa. It was the ideal 'it's all said, yet not by all' topic. Alas, somehow it's been one of the shorter threads only

Compared to a 55W H4 a LED unit keeps the lamp stone cold. Otherwise you wouldn't swap to it. While we are at it: The LED light might seem brighter, but as a matter of fact the overall efficiency of a well matched H4 bulb/reflector system is always much better. LEDs need well adapted lens and mirror systems to show their true potential. An aftermarket H4 LED 'up'-grade in a standard H4 setup is good only for annoying the oncoming traffic. It's a physics/optical problem. These reflectors need the lightsource spot on in the focus point, as small as possible. LEDs are exactly not the ideal match for such requirements.

You'll burn your fingers. That's all. BTW, what part do use now? FIAT aftermarket for instance?

Tinus, do you have access to a strobe lamp? It would let you check the ignition (the spark triggers the strobe). 2. You should also carefully listen to the fuelpump. Does it run longer then the engine? It means, after the engine stops, can you hear the pump running for another second or so? 3. Does the bike start with the throttle wide open (TPS related question)? It should start at least. When the ecu looses the phase signal it usually stops firing coils and injectors. I saw this starting with backfiring and all that. The battery voltage does not shut down the ecu. I had mine running fine at 17 or 18 V, only the newly bought Hawker got a bit hot and sweating

In the V. This was the first year, and vapor lock was rampant with them. Yeah, something like that went through my mind You really don't know what you've missed so far 'till someone comes up with the right story. Wish I could have been there, watching them poking ice cubes under the tanks ... But honestly, what noobs were resposible for this presentation? There's a hose on the right side, open the clamp, let the fumes out and the show go one. It may be a bit messy sometimes, but hey, it's a motorcycle, it can smell a bit.

I don't think that a TPS is in any way heat sensitive. There's no electronics inside. Besides that, what would it be that could heat it up that much?

Nice story Where did they lay it on? Can't avoid Baywatch pictures coming at me.. Anyway, hot day now, I'm off for soaring.

The smaller one will probably show only one lip. The second lip is called 'dust lip', at least in German, so there's a good chance that the smaller one will work, too. Be careful: 53mm is a rather big diameter, so calculate the resulting rim speed at 8000 rpm and check, whether your choice is able to cope with this. Besides that, a leaking seal is not a common problem, in most cases the oil comes from a leaking cam cover. Unless you see a real mess below the bike it's probably not the ring.

Tinus, you say you're in the Netherlands. That's at sea level. You won't see any vapour lock as long as ambient temperature is below 35°C, even then only under really bad conditions like Stop&Go in town or so. You can recognise it at a squeaking or just strangely high reving fuel pump. Keeping the petcock open and cycling the pump several times with the kill switch usually solves this problem (which you don't have anyway). For me your story sounds like a dying phase sensor. Unfortunately you cannot realy check them. In case you want to try a new one look for similar car parts from Fiat e.a. Usually they are all the same, just the cabel length differs. The blown manifold: next time your engine acts weird you better keep the throttle a tad open, using the "choke lever" for instance. That helps taming the Bang.

It's always new and interesting how and where the threads go around here I never thought I'd stumble over wool wax in a bike forum, over Little Feet neither however ... The wax I use is sold under "Fluid Film NAS", to mention just one type. Great stuff, but as usual it's the added value that makes such a product interesting, in this case it's the smell - makes you easily addicted. Using it on electrical contacts is something I yet have to try. Maybe this is a family thing. My father used a furniture polish called "Wunderglanz" on all his bikes, they always smelled like 'Amareto' that way - despite the fact that he was far away from buying any italian product in his bike days

Battery flat I'd say. The tach stops below 10V. Obviously the charging system's not working. Could be a broken wire inside the alternator (one of the two thick yellow ones), could be the regulator. Or it could be the previously touched wiring (starter knob etc.). Unfortunately, though, it's quite often the regulator. Hubert

I like the pix, how the story goes, and the wee lad Keep it moving. Hubert

Funny, how much such a small correction can improve read- and understandability BTW: Are you sure about the "laminar air flow"? That's quite a deep can of worms you've opened with this statement ... Hubert

It would be most helpful if Meinolf would repeat his statement in plain German. Snorkels are better, ok, but what about the figures?