luhbo

You have your front rather low. So next time you might consider to remove the sidestand before you lean over to the max. To get your knee down without silly contorsions you have to shorten the tank 5cm and raise seat and pegs also 5cm, means take a different bike. Hubert PS: I'm also a big fan of Mike Hailwood

Ego te absolvo! Live on and be happy

Jaap, come on. They should know what they're doing. Personally I find it rather poor minded to make and sell a copy of someone else's design, this way telling everyone that phantasy or elegance are terms I'm unfortunately not familiar with. A good reputation doesn't mean that enough blokes out there with 'good reputation' are making real money with GuzziDiag, selling stolen software and stolen maps. And why did it take two whole pages before the name of the 'windy guys' were mentioned the first time? Hubert

As long as sparks were battered out mechanically the 8° retarding were quite common IIRC. Once he has the software he can build and compare different maps. That's just a toy, and playing around with it is part of the game. About the maps: did you ask Paul for instance? Hubert

So, instead, what would work then? Hubert

Sorry for the fuss. Having seen yours I now think that mine came from Rossopuro (sold by Stein-Dinse)

Exactly. That's what I meant. Anyway, if yours' are vented, then what was I talking about? I'm quite sure the golden ones I once had where Rizomas, too, but unvented. That's why I sold them. They were cheaply made (not sold), just a flat pot, no further internal structure, but with a nice yellow golden finish. IIrc mine came without plastic inserts. It's good that yours' are working. Hubert

The Rizoma tanks are unvented. IMO that's a show stopper. The pipes' coating does look great, indeed.

In my opinion weight on the front wheel is one thing (and I think the V11 is blessed with enough weight on the front), the other thing, the other factor, is the geometry. Lowering the front pushes its characteristics more versus agility. If I had such a wobbly problem with my short KR I'd definitely go the other direction: pushing out the legs and adding some sag (reducing the preload) on the front and especially on the rear. Onroad, perhaps not on-race-track, a good sag of about 1/4 to 1/3 of the overall travel makes a nice life insurance. In case one runs into problems with this setting, over bumps or on the brake, then I think it's time to look for stiffer springs and not to increase the preload (or decrease the air gap). And hey, "all V11 without fairing have a tendency to wobble": that's a little overboard, regardless how often the internet copies their quotes. Besides that, the Scura has a fairing, so what if next time the specialists show up with exactly the opposite Fatwa Hubert

Could it be that you're working (or thinking) in the wrong direction? Do I understand you right when I read this so that you lowered the front for getting a more stable bike? Besides that, being wobbly above 120 km/h sounds like a bigger problem, loose sub frame, empty or stuck shocks, dead wheel bearings, something like that, not like a few millimeters missing or too much of sag. Hubert

Who makes them? They're the same Aprilia parts as in the first post?

Positively

Fuses are installed as fire insurance, to protect the harness, not the other electrical devices attached to the harness. An internal fuse cannot do this. Hubert

Thanks for the nice and detailed write up. Let me add that it's better to fill up only one side with the recommended volume, the other side then should be filled up to the same level as the first one. The resulting ammount of oil might be different, but this way the more important resulting air volume will be the same in both legs. Hubert

You can. The engine will start and idle. Everything above idle will be quite a bit lean of course. Keep this ecu, for once you've got the cable and software you can 'upgrade' it to a genuine V11 ecu. Hubert

Temporarily it works also without them. If you don't believe it, or if in your case the internals of yours are different to mine, screw it off and remove the small o-ring on the plunger. Hubert

I wouldn't "T" it. These nippels have different functions, one drains the water coming from rain or bike washing, the other one leeds air back to the tank. I wouldn't mix them. for 3: you can plug the fittings. for 2: over here the fittings are not connected. Anyway, some have them tee'd and connected to the pressure valve on the right side of the tank. Opinions about this vary widely. Naturally, one could say

Thanks for the informative write-up, I ike what I see. You should consider putting some bigger washers below the nuts, furtheron swap the nuts to selflocking ones in order to remove the stress from the carbon part. It might get cracks rather easy at this unsprung location. Hubert

Only the cam area is no lost art Anyway, it's coming out on the front side - once you've removed the big and, in case of the crank shaft, slotted nuts that hold the sprockets. You'll need proper tools and a long lever. Hubert - what is the damage now? Cam and followers?

That's a lost art what you're looking for. A CAD part or drawing might come up, maybe, but these usually are nothing worth to get framed and hanged. Hubert

I still could cry that I had to let go by Ponti's silver fish. That really sucked! Hubert

Thanks for the pictures, Scud. The idea how to install the bracket is a nice one. Hubert

Scud, does the fender cover the shock eye?

One of the ends comes loose and then folds up the aluminium tube.