luhbo

Check the tappets. As mentioned before somewhere, there is no lubrication failure to be expected 'cause the lobes and followers are splash lubed. Otherwise you'll find major damage on other parts, too. BTW, ccheck the pushrod first. Sometimes you can have lucky days, too, on a Guzzi 2.edit: Baldini was first I see just now ...

Rather the part similar to puppet, hanging to it. Open it quick, maybe you can still safe your new cam, at least it may still be regrindable. Hubert

Beef up your life

Yes. But to get the most out of them you should alter the levers, too. Hubert

Below the word 'Slots' you can see a pair of cogs - in neutral position. That's the correct neutral for all of them. It's as easy as Baldini said. I wouldn't try it in third, too easy to trap into something silly in my eyes. Hubert

The rear pegs are Racing-Only. For comfort you should go the HD route. Hubert

That was my hope, too. Alas, in fact the Europeans will pay more, due to the taxes to be paid inside the EC.

Search ebay for 'ecu' or 'cdi' and marelli or ducati or guzzi or WM15 and the like. You can reflash all of them to the version you need. You can try to resolder the joints on the ecu, but you shouldn't expect to much. These pcbs are rather fine pitched and probably multi layer, too. On one of your pix I've seen that the ecu is already opened. Did you buy it open or did you open it yourself? That's what I meant with 'Good Luck' when I saw this. Hubert

Opened ecu? Good Luck!

I doubt that. An ECU reset needs 2 seconds at least. That's not coughing nor spitting, that's a dead engine. Anyhow, the lamp thing still would make some good exercise. Before you do that make sure that the relais' socket is in good working order. As mentioned before, usually the relais are good, just the sockets are too cheap and don't provide a reliable contact after some time. Once the relais start to flutter because of that you might experience the described spitting and coughing. It's also important that you change or 'repair' only one item at the same time. Check and alter one thing, then check the result. Only then make the next step. Hubert

If you really get it to the States for that money, then it's even cheaper for Germany (I hope). You have a list somewhere where I can sign?

Make sure that the relais are sitting tight in their sockets. You can remove the whole socket bench from the bike, on the underside you'll find the connectors that grip the relais' connection tongues. To 99% those are the problem, not the relais themselves. On one of your first pictures I saw that the previous owner had opened the harness, so it's probably a good idea to check whether all the cables still go to where they should. Most important here is the temperature sensor. You'll find it sitting in blue on the right cylinder head. Another thing you should buy is a set of cables for the GuzziDiag software. Especially in your case it might be a good thing to be able to read out the ecu's fault tables and check all the sensor readings. Is that Beetle in the background a '65 (or slightly younger)? Hubert

I always wished to be man enough for such decisions, to get off the dead weight ... Selling things to a close relative looks like a good exercise for beginners

You would not really want to send your spares to China without kissing them goodby before, would you?

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Switch cable, plug and cap from left to right side and try again. Damaged cables, plugs or caps can lead to such symptoms, of course coils too, but again: simplier things first. If you have a car shop near you let them connect the bike to their old-style analog analyser and look for faults in the ignition system.

I had one broken some years ago, but then it was clearly visible that the oil came from above down the steel harness. Check them for enough clearance to engine and frame. Hubert

Look for a hydraulics shop, those making lines for fork lifters and the like. They can check your fittings and make you new ones, just in case, for relatively small money. Hansaflex.com for instance.

I think these parts are switched to ground, so while the relay is activated (i.e. the pump is running) you should see 12V at one of the injector's terminals. Check the schematics for details. Besides that you can also just pull both of them, leave them connected and press the start button. You shouldn't smoke, btw, especially not then in this moment. Hubert

It was Paul who posted a photo of this early exhibition version some month (or was it years) ago. Can't remember the context, tho' Hubert

Personally I don't change the oils on my bikes too often. I use good ones, they are rated for 10000 and more. On the other hand it's very seldom that I use the bike for legs shorter than ~50 miles (commuting), so the percentage of water in the oil is rather low. I risk it to leave the oil in over these 5 winter months. Fresh oil of course is better. It's a long time problem, I'd say. It's a bit the same as with dogs. We say a dogy year counts 7 man years. I don't know the factor that applies for Guzzi engines, anyway, in the end you'll probably not be able to tell what made you stop riding your V11, the missed oil changes or ageing in general. Hubert

Can you switch the technician? A working PF4C TPS is basically the same as a working PF3C. As already mentioned above, first test the actual one. A well known technician can do this, at least as long as people know him because of his bike business. What are the symptoms of your bike's problems? Hubert

Basically not. It's a sign of low current, maybe due to low voltage. In fact in 9 out of 10 cases high resistance is the culprit. Keep that in mind when you dig through the schematics. Hubert

The one with the cap is the communications port for reading or writing the ecu, the two bullet connectors are unused. One is a switched plus (connected to the pump, coils and injectors IIRC), the other one is ground. Maybe they're just a leftover from the times when ecus sent out blink codes (3 short, 3 long, 3 short for instance, just to get the idea of it ) Hubert

No, not on the gaskets. Only at the O-rings. Used it on old 2-stroke engines instead of the head gasket. Worked. After some years these rings might have lost all the elasticity they once had. In case they start to let the oil through they're quickly replaced anyway. Just remove the rocker bed and swap them. No new gaskets, no retorquing.