luhbo

In my opinion it's just an unnecessary risk of stripping one of the long anchor bolts. Retorque them after the first 50 miles or so, after the engine was well warmed up and all parts have settled, and that's it. I never had a problem with leaking head or cylinder seals. On the other hand: I'm a firm believer in Hylomar. May be that this helps a bit...

Don't fix it until it's broken It's a pity that we can't make such great sentences in German. Hubert ... what might also answer the other question further above: don't retorque the heads

This is not how it officially should be. Running the system with extra relais and grounds usually brings the regulator voltage down below 14V, to something around 13.8. In case you have a stabilised or switched power supply unit at hand or in your neighbourhood go and check your volt meter. Those modern cheap ones may not be the most precise ones, especially once the internal 1.5V are fading. Hubert

It needs cleaning?

Just another reason to keep his fingers away from that stuff.

Check out what chip is inside, then try different driver versions, then open the connector and check the connections and solderings, then buy a different brand. That's what I did some years ago. Or call the buyer and tell him the China crap he's selling doesn't work. It will not surprise him and he'll send you another one. This is also a personal experience I made. Hubert

From time to time it's the phase sensor. All parts on a bike can fail, unfortunately also the less cheaper ones. If all else is ok, consider this part to be the problem. In this case the pump primes when you turn on the ignition, but then stays dead. Normally it comes on again as soon as the engine turns and triggers the ecu via the phase sensor. My personal experience is that the relays are rather seldomly making problems. Keep their terminals clean and make sure they find enough grip in the sockets. Hubert

No, I'm saying in case you could spin the rear wheel by hand then you could act the Hercules in some Freak Show

Your bike seems to be quite normal. In case you could spin the wheel easily in 6th, even start it, you should try to make money with this show. For jump starts use the 3rd gear and use all the weight you have. On dry roads only. When wet you can try 4th or 5th even. The point is the jump start. Let it jump over the compression only once, then push, then jump again. Jump, clutch, push, jump, clutch, and so on. This engine jumps quite willingly this way. Don't do this when over 56 Hubert edit: bump start, if you wish. I feel jump start being the better expression.

Ok, so it's pulses. Just pulses. No spikes, pulses.That makes no difference. You know that it's the average that counts. There's no need for statements like the one below:

There's no need to care about spikes I'd say. They're just spikes. Melting things needs heat and time. Hubert

You checked the fuses?

Look here for the PF3 output curve (read carefully ): http://www.guzziclub.fi/foorumi/index.php?topic=4127.135 and for comparison: http://ca-cycleworks.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/750x500/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/p/f/pf09_printout.jpg Similar enough to give it a try. You would have done so anyway, wouldn't you? Hubert

I'm not sure whether the PF09 and the 15M will work together properly. Have you checked the TPS characteristics? In case they're different you should adjust the 15M maps. Great bike, btw. This engine is made for Hooligans Hubert

Exactly. The company behind it usually is one of the well knowns like FAG or INA anyway. Way more important is the right spacer length. You checked this probably, did you? Hubert

I saw something similar years ago on a friend's Laverda with a selfmade break reaction rod/lever/whatever. The lever had play and hence wiggled the pads/pistons back into the caliper, quite the same as if the disc had been warped. Hubert

Does this happen over night too, or only after some miles of driving? How long does it stay solid? Hubert

Before you dig in deeper, after having done the easy things first, consider that blown off boots happen quite often. So often that one could think that's just normal. Watch it, and then try to keep the flaps open when in risky conditions, such as interrupted warm starts for instance. Hubert

They don't just come off, usually they're blown off. I guess glueing them on next time would only cause an even bigger bang. Try a proper synchronisation, it helps. Hubert

Does anyone remember the days when enriching a certain map area just made this particular map area richer and didn't @#!#$# up the whole ecu (not to mention the neighbour's dog)? Hubert

That sounds interesting. Do you have an explanation for it? Does it affect the cast's grain structure, or is it surface related? Hubert

Try this link: Cycle World At least a lot to look at. Google found some Guzzi and fair content there, I wasn't so lucky.

Still no EICMA pics from '97. Instead I have another interesting one: 'Road Tests' Hubert

And I thought the girl in the background, on your profile pic, is your pretty daughter @ Docc for 1997 I found this: the Ippogrifo A most interesting bike in my opinion. Hubert

Temperature sensor? It's the blue part on the right cylinder. Look for disconnected cables first, then measure the sensor's resistance both hot and cold. You'll find the correct values in the shop manual. Hubert