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Replace parts 30 and 31 and the play will be gone. Hubert

This air insulated GM unit will never measure, or more precisely, indicate the head temperature better or quicker than the brass one does by one simple reason (as said above already): it's insulated from what it should measure. It's as easy as that. This 10 gr brass unit, properly coupled to the 5 kg aluminium head with the help of some heat conductive stuff, is perfectly up to the task. An air gap is not what you want to have in this system. Hubert

This part is obviously meant for Tontis. Even for those the 80% improvement, and the rest he's promising, too, are things he most likely won't be able to keep. Commonly the rating of automotive parts is done for 12V, by the way, not 14V. That's quite close to cheating. Hubert.

It's nice to read that you're onroad again. A single mechanic knowing his business often helps more than a bunch of groundcables Hubert

How will you do that? Will you go for Ethanol free distributors or can you really remove it? Hubert

I think the P has something to with 'Palle' Hubert

Leaking or in this case probably seeping injectors are quite common. Their moving internals are rather small and sensitive. I had this some years ago, the left header inside was white, the other side black, caused by a worn injector on the right side. Pull the injectors and pressurise the system (turn ignition on so that the pump primes). Having them outwards bent you can even press the starter button. A seeping nozzle should become visible that way. Leaking O-rings shouldn't affect the fueling/running. Hubert

You could look for the 'Spring Has Sprung' threads for getting an idea how to remove the sidecover of the gearbox. It's no big task and will give you a near to perfect look on all its internals. Anyway, regardless whether the gearbox, the clutch or other parts in the drivetrain have failed, it will rather be nothing you could fix by swapping relais or with additional ground cables (unless you use them for towing). So opening the gearbox will probably be just another complication on the bike's way to the next shop. Nonetheless make sure to report back once you know what sort of shit happened this time. Hubert

It's weldable, but you need a pro for that. Nothing for the 'home office'. Does your version have the front cross-over? Some say, it's the cross-over pipe that induces these bad tensions. Hubert

It's dangerous only in case you have a dead battery. Dead does not mean flat. Even a flat battery can buffer the dangerous voltage spikes that can occure when you remove the jump cables or in case one of them just falls off. Not so a dead one (broken internals or other effects that push its internal resistance through the roof). So removing the ground of the bikes battery is a real risky thing (your battery's acting dead in this case) and on the other hand taking the engine, a footpeg or other well grounded metal parts as the negative pole is a good idea, because such parts usually offer much better and safer grip for the clamp as the small battery pole can do. Nonetheless a lot of 16M units gave up their ghosts during jump starting, but as so often, who knows what the owners really did to them. Hubert

Is it a Veglia unit or does your bike already have the ITIs? I don't know their internals, they could be completely different. I still should have a picture of an opened Veglia, somewhere, means I'll post it once I found it. Hubert

Could be both. First define 'shaky'. Next thing is that in these tachs Veglia had money for one coil only. This coil works against a simple spring. So, while damping is marginal, a little shakiness can also be just normal (for this type of instrument). A bad ground of course could also be the reason, as well as a dying coil. Hubert

Yes, had open one or two of them. As docc said, the housing ground connector is for the bulb only. The electronic's ground comes with the harness, but I didn't check from where this 3-wire harness comes. The single pole AMP leads the signal pulses, so you might check where this cable leaves the harness and trace down the ground from there. Hubert

Be carefull! Zerks are brittle. They snap really easy! Hubert

And how they change the colour This fuse shouldn't be blue. Hubert

How old is the brake fluid? I think that a well sorted car shop can measure how much water it holds already. Brake fluid on at least my list is something very close to the end - your post reminds me to look up when I changed it last time. Hubert

Besides that you need the typical mishaps parts: plugs, caps, a hand brake lever maybe, tape, tape and cable ties. And fuses, of course. Tools depend on what you can do with them, or in other words, you would know wich tools you may need on the road. A small socket set, a long screw driver and some decent universal pliers (water pump) for instance can always come handy and still are not to heavy. Hubert

Spain? On an Italian bike? I'd say this needs different spanners. Consider this: Proteggimi Hubert

Use the upper eye of the lever for generally shorter ways and make sure that the front and rear lever in neutral build a nearly right angled parallelogram. If this parallelogram is tilted, you'll have different ways for up and down shifts. Tilted to the right will give a shorter way for down shifts, tilted to the left will logically shorten the way for up shifts. Hubert

They're not so hard to find. The picture below is taken from the battery faq, for instance. It often helps to search for pictures btw, Google is better with pix than with letters. Resistance is not explicitely shown, anyway it's easy to calculate from U and I with the shown curves. I didn't give any formulas leading to 24 or 48 Amps. The mentioned relation of P1 / P2 works without any resistance at all. You'll end up with 14,5²/13,8². I also edited my previous posting to make the quote a bit clearer. Hubert

No need for beeing a math champ. You can do most of the typical sparky business with Ohm's law, in this case I'd try P=U*U/R and compare P at 13.8V with P at 14.5V. The resulting 1.1 won't make any difference for a regulator, the more as we have to talk about power dissipation only. Battery questions you can have answered here: http://www.batteryfaq.org/ Look it up and you'll find that cell resistance is all but constant. So is to easy I'd say. BTW, do you still promote your compensation diodes to get the voltage over 14.5V, to avoid undercharged batteries? Hubert

Not a real problem. Take Breva ones in combination with Breva rods. Better than stock, albeit the rods cost extra, of course. Hubert

Roy, better than 'sort of exponential' would be an example based on figures/calculations which will help to clarify how these things depend on each other. Hubert

It's a long time, 7 years, but for a Hawker not really extraordinary. It should be able to start the bike and provide a reasonable buffer for voltage spikes and ribble in general (in an automotive environment), that's more or less all for what you need it. Everything else is managed by the alternator/regulator combo, to my understanding at least. So, I'd say the battery probably's not your problem. What have you done with your regulator in the meantime? Are you sure it is ok now? Have you measured the battery voltage during yesterday's control light show? Hubert

I hope this will do the trick. Can't you check it yourself at the next car shop? In case it's just the starting enrichment I would leave the ECU alone. The engine should be hot when you check the CO, a head temperature of 80°C will help (if CO still is critical). But, as I never had this problem, I never really proofed what I wrote above. Hubert