luhbo

As you already have the PCIII I think you should try this first instead of anything else. I don't know whether you can make changes while the engine is running, but this would make things quite easy. Just lean out the lowest 3x3 or maybe 4x4 cells until the rpms beginn to fall. Then compensate this by slightly opening the bypass screws. When you repeat the CO test you should know that after starting the engine the ECU enriches the mixture for approx. 1000 revolutions. Holding the engine at higher revs for 1 minute before you start the sniffer might look a bit strange, but it will certainly help. Hubert

Dream on

Usually they corrode, build up a lot of green insulating stuff inside (brass contacts). Hubert

You can't use it in thick layers. Another typical case for it would be mounting the valve covers without the paper gasket. I used it even instead of the head gasket in two stroke engines (on a non professional basis of course). Hubert

Yes, it's a must in every shop. On the older tubes they said it comes from Rolls-Royce. Actually I don't know whether that's still the case, but in the 80ies it was. Hubert

The Optimiser tells me that I can use more fuel with the snorkels attached then without them. That's the techincal aspect why I like them. What I really don't like is the noise the intake makes without them. BTW, I'm glad you did not use the phrase 'no-brainer' others often use in this regard, docc Hubert

Check the plug cables.

The picture (one of dlaing's) shows that the mixture gets leaned out at higer temperatures. On hot days I've seen head temperatures up to 100°C and above (at stop lights, in city traffic), while onroad on colder days sometimes the temperature hardly rises over 55°C. Before you start tinkering with these values you should doublecheck that the basic tuning of your bike is correct. Hubert

The problem is to define what is normal. He's the only one to say whether it's getting rapidly worse or not. Hubert

Set the TPS with a Volt-Meter according to this or that procedure you will find described in detail somewhere else in this forum (you already mentioned the 'Micha Tune') and use the exhaust sniffer to adjust the CO Trim. Not vice versa. The CO trim can have any value, there is no specific right one. It's a feature mainly used for compensation of tolerances in the aspiration chain - what leads to the conclusion, that you should stick to the official tuning procedure based on 150mV etc. and only after that use the sniffer/Guzzi Diag for the final 'Micha' touch. Hubert

Well, some additional weight on the front wheel won't hurt. It makes the steering more reliable. You know these fat, high bling clear coated speaker cables, which, according to the HiFi geeks at least, can even turn Heino into music? Hubert

The tank is empty?

Why not. Make sure you don't forget the side stand. Never. Besides all other possible risks keep in mind that the side stand is bolted to the engine, the alu cast housing, not to the forgiving frame as it was 20 years ago. Hubert

Hmm, that makes me think, too. Some weeks ago I had a dead battery after 3 hours in heavy rain (red light on). Swapping the regulator helped, but just some hundred Km later the light came on again, no charging. This time, because the reg was changed already and the bike not fully packed (you cannot rally every day) I checked the fuses and found the big one blown. So now, what if ... Hubert

Hubert

You'll already have salt and/or acidic elements inside which won't come out again. You better keep your eyes open in case a new one might appear on ebay or the like. Good luck. Hubert

Put it in an ofen at 100°C for one or two hours. This may cure the problem for some time. These regs are insufficiently sealed, after some years moisture gets inside and does strange things to the components. The annoying thing is that you can't rely upon the red light. When it comes on as on your bike now, the charging usually works - or not Try the ofen. In case this helps you can still try to seal the gap or cracks between the housing and the green potting compound. Hubert

My guess: '67, Reseda-green. Hubert Edit: I've seen you mentioned the year already, 63. So that's one year older than mine, a 64 Standard in Seeblau Hubert

Yep. All at once. The preferred method for endurance racer you could say Hubert BTW: working through this manhole in my opinion is the main reason for all those loose oil filters. Without the proper tool to correctly tighten the filter you're on a steep slope towards disaster.

10W-60 is what Guzzi recommends in several shop infos. That's what I've been told, I haven't seen one of those letters. Tossing out 30$ of fresh quality oil just because of this would be beyond my imagination, too. Hubert

Don't ask. It depends on what actually is ageing faster, me or my actual one. The one now standing in the shed also doesn't get younger, so probably it was some sort of bite reflex only. Hubert

You probably can't proof that, Docc. All my modern car engines over the last 20 years had done well over 250.000 km when the rest of the car forced me to get another one, the last two had over 320.000 even (PSA 2.0 litres, 140 HP). I never had a problem caused by insufficient oil quality. Could be that things are a little different when we talk about air cooled big twins, usually operated with highly varying oil temperatures, with lots of short distance use and much stop-and-go. But even then this engine does 100.000 km easily. I don't see any real need to grieve for outdated and poisonous additives. Any modern oil of good quality as mentioned in the manual will do it. Hubert

Me neither, that's what makes oil freds so entertaining Hubert

I picked up a 2000 Greeny last year in Italy: 3k Euro with 6000 km. Pristine, not one scratch, unfortunately the rear tire was new already PO (and only) said the wifie didn't like it, always wanted a convertible. Hubert

Not really. The first value stands for the viscosity of the base oil, the second value relies on the quality of specific stabilisers/additives. That said, a 5W-40 indeed may be enough under normal conditions (especially in water cooled car engines), but then you shouldn't whine when at low idle/tick-over in combination with higher temperatures the pressure light starts to flicker. The more as the red light 'on' only says that the switch has contact, nothing about the reasons or possible consequencies. BTW, I'm quite sure we already have a lot of oil threads in the tech section Hubert