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luhbo

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Everything posted by luhbo

  1. Anyway, consider an Ex-Box like solution. 2 into 1 bigger expansion chamber/collector, from there into one exhaust pipe/cone/whatever. Jaap has done it, the OEMs do it, it would be my approach as well. You could build this based on a used standard V11 collector which would provide the correct connectors to the headers and also a solid basis for your further welding. Hubert
  2. Do a Goggle search for Ducati superbikes, or Honda SP1/SP2. All used 2-1-2 with the most possible success on racetracks. Go for 2-1 if you like the look of it, that's what counts for private road use. In another thread you mentioned that F/I and cylinder selective tuning is not your thing - in this case consider a 2-1-2. Anyway, have fun, such things always are nice projects. Hubert
  3. Yes, A/F logger combined with Autotune and all neccessary diagnostic tools as dashboard, based on Bluetooth and available for Win, WinPC and Android. Have you read Jaap's thread where he described the pimping of his V11 with a Ghezzi&Brian kit? It's a very nice peace of work, topped with an even nicer DIY-exhaust. Search it. Hubert
  4. No, this is not what I mean. MyEcu is this: or this: -> and much more in this direction. Hubert
  5. I like your approach. Consider buying a MyEcu for the fueling thing. Not because you really need to make changes because of your new exhaust, just for more points on your 'things still to learn' list. That's real fun. Hubert
  6. I would not pre-fill it. It's not in the mainstream anyway, also the temp. valve opens slowly once it's time for it.
  7. You can't use a LED as fuel light, not without the help of some advanced electronics. The fuel sensor requires a standard glow bulb. I know a guy who shot his sensor by playing around with resistors. It's an expensive part I think we had a similar thread some years ago. Hubert
  8. Could be that you ruined your new battery by overtorquing the connectors. They're sensitive. That would explain why you get a rather high voltage but no current. Or you bought an old shelf warmer. As good as they are, after 3 or 4 years on the shelf they definitely need a good charge before using them. But in that case the voltage wouldn't be 12.5 Hubert
  9. It's a Guzzi thing. They do that since ever. Needless weight just gets shaken off. Maybe it helps if you don't tighten the screws too much. Just a bit to secure the lever, but then don't forget the Loctite for fixing the bolts themselfs. Hubert
  10. I think mine's worn out: Maybe. But grenaded is something different, I think, and not so uncommon. Your's is the second one I've seen so far. Those clamps may break, due to hardening faults, improper slotting, whatever. For a worn U-Joint people shouldn't need a 'specialist mechanic' to detect it. Hubert
  11. Cute. The only thing I can do is saving the picture, tho ... Hubert
  12. Define worn out, please. What exactly are the symptoms? It's not really a common fault and your's probably still well also. If you really need to replace a single joint or both, search this site: http://www.elbe-group.de/_basics/sublinku33.htm Don't tell them it's for a Guzzi, they need just the dimensions of the parts. You might also send them your shaft for overhauling, in case you can hold out some weeks without it. Hubert
  13. No, you can change nothing at them.
  14. You can look at a lot of Thruxtons/Bonnies and owners here: http://www.thruxton-forum.de/forum/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=14744 They can mount what they like, it'll never be a match for a decent pair of MIVVs Hubert
  15. Check out this: http://cocguzzi.blogspot.com/ He's the builder. Has a great blog. Search his site for Guzzi and enjoy, although he's specialised on other bikes rather. Hubert
  16. Have you looked up the prices for the components? In case you ruin something you'd better go for a used bike to slaughter than for spares from a dealer Hubert
  17. Yep, that's what I wrote. Hubert
  18. Part 19 probably also is a shim. Maybe the whole unit wasn't correctly shimmed right from the beginning. The procedure itself isn't that difficult, the mounting/dismounting of the pinion is. Making the tools yourself is doable according to the other pictures you took. Have fun Hubert
  19. Search for split-piston, u-cylinder and other terms you'll find in these findings. As you said, a standard stroker can not make any reasonable use of a blower. But looking at the pictures of the crankshaft of this particular bike I guess without a blower it wouldn't have made one single burp at all. It would be interesting to read something about how he managed to start it. Nice peace of craftmanship, nonetheless. Hubert
  20. Go again through all the steps/actions you made and reflect how they could have affected the stack of parts. You didn't forget any possible washers between housing and cover? No new gasket? Look for pos. 25 Hubert
  21. Well, that's not the Quiz section, is it? When you close the cover you're pushing the crown wheel against the pinion. Normaly this wheel is seated to the other side, to the cover. So turn around the enddrive and bounce it on the workbench so that this heavy gear will make its way back to where it's supposed to be sitting. Hubert
  22. As long as you didn't change any parts, sealings and so on, there should be no difference to before. I see a chance that once you get some load on the pinion on the first meters this spring the reaction forces will properly reseat gear and pinion. Mount the cover properly and then try to bounce down (or out) the big wheel (head over, without doing damage to the alu parts), then 'feel' again. Hubert
  23. Yes, and some slick welding, too! Hubert
  24. I know of only one bike being so sadly treaten: your's. Did you buy it knew from the factory or can you tell any previous owner who might have screwed that up? Hubert
  25. Nope. I wear blue.
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