luhbo

You just need to forget it once. Might be the case that as a pilot you're used to check list procedures before take off, might even find fun in them. Being not a pilot I prefer a fool proof system, more I definitely need it. I removed the clutch switch ('cause adults start the engine with the left thumb, and because the cable was broken) and that's trouble enough resp. scratches a bit at this pic from time to time. I don't want to look really silly because I forgot the s/s. In such moments you can't hand pick the spectators. Hubert

The side stand switch is a life saver. If it's not your life than at least the bike's one. Don't be an idiot and remove/bypass it. Hubert

Yes, indeed not to bad. Quite nice in fact Hubert

Roy, up to what voltage does this unit go on your bike now? Hubert

It's tempting, yes. But I don't know. Once they're blown off... I remember standing in the pit/prestart in 1985 at the Salzburg Ring between a bunch of BMW RS side car racers. After 5 minutes or so I was really close to a nervous brakedown, no kidding. On your pictures I've seen mufflers even on the Rudges. That was different last century. Did edit my previous post, btw. I guess 'besides' was not the 100% correct wording this time^^ Hubert

Search this site: http://www.ripca.com/ Under Blade Fuses the original part is available, for 1/3 of the official price. I don't know about P/P to the US (actually you have no Postal Service anyway, have you? ). Hubert

That was a good day out! Lots of marvellous bikes, besides standing in the shadow of the Guzzis of course. What would be my favourite? The Aermacchi perhaps? Now that you've brought the pix - this thread is even more worthless without sound Hubert

You have a picture taken from behind the bike? Turning the cans upwards is only one half of the rent. To stand the look of it the other one Hubert

The numbers are ok. And also a brand new battery doesn't make much more but maybe 10 (longer) start attempts. They are small ones. Above I was asking about the P/0. How come the P/O collected 4 of these high priced parts? What is the actual price for one, 350 USD? If you want to share them you should know the price, at least Hubert Hubert

Looking up Hawkwind, why all that stir, I found this quote .. and a short piece of Silvermachine. Man, that was '72 already Hubert

You really want to rely on the internet in this case? If so, go through the gears again and, the clutch engaged, check whether you can spin the rear wheel. That's all - I think. That's what I did at least. Had I sprawled me after that it would have been my own fault. That's the difference. Hubert

really glad you had a good day out but

You might be lucky this time and it's just the flat battery. 12.5 is not too bad, 12.8 and climbing is even better. No charge would mean 12.2 or so and falling. Had the same with mine once. Had the battery out for some other purposes and when I put it back, rather flat then, it just sucked away nearly all the work the alternator was able to deliver. It's a typical thing for this type of battery. Thanks for the feedback, btw. Another question comes to my mind: why does someone have 4 TPSes laying around? Do you know what Guzzi wants for one of them? Hubert

Doesn't the main ground go in the other direction, where the battery sits? Also it looks, as if this cable splits up into two shortly before it goes under the spine. Anyway, if it is so, the previous owner probably was Pandorra. So far I've only seen rotten ex T3 - ex Café - ex Cali - now 'It's a real Guzzi, no electronics' rape victims in this state Hubert

Still don't get it. Could you mark what you want to show on the picture you kindly reposted? Hubert

I think that's some misunderstanding. The main ground never was loose nor is it attached to somewhere else but the gearbox. Did I miss something? Hubert

The dangling mystery cable was the thick one, usually, and not at all silly, bolted to the gearbox or was it the small black one usually connected to the regulator housing? Besides that it is quite important to have numerous connections directly between battery minus and the attached electrical devices - for EMC reasons or as potential equalisations. Don't make changes to your harness unless you really know what you do. At least you should be able to read and interpret correctly the schematics provided in the manual. You better be carefull, set your harness on fire and you can opt for another bike. The internet won't help you then. Hubert BTW, do you have an Ohlins V11?

I'd be glad to have 4 instead of 2. 4 nowadays definitely is the better concept. Commercial aspects aside you could design an overall much torquier 92 HP 4-valver than what we have with our actual 2-valve anachronism. That's why you liked the last Triumphs. It's not the 4 valves, it's just what you use them for. Hubert

Nice observation, indeed. Found this picture recently. The policeman, it's the one in the middle BTW, not only is looking rather relaxed, he's even smoking. In the public and while on duty Hubert

Sorry, my fault. Just follow Paul's link on top of this page. You have GuzziDiag already? Then you probably have a proper cable. Next is downloading the additional tools GuzziReader, -Writer and also TunerPro. Next step of course will be to become comfortable with TunerPro and the bunch of maps found in a WM15. A PCIII will deliver quicker results, especially if you can go to a dyno with it. Spark changes are a different thing. Hubert

It's probably too rich. Nonetheless the WM15 is very well tuned for starting and warm up, at least in my opininion. I wouldn't change anything in this region. It's just too easy to mess things up there. I must admit, though, that I don't warm up my bike. I start it, then ride it. So I couldn't say whether it runs rough or not, it just does its job. The My15M, my regular ecu, enriches only up to 50°C. In the morning, at about 15°C, it takes 10 or 15km to reach the 50°C. You'd never have the choke pulled in for that long distance on any carburetor vehicle, would you? Actually, below 10°C, it hardly reaches the 50°C at all. In your map you should find -10.2% for 55° and 65°C oil temperature. Just paste this value to the other cells above that (the scale goes up to 125°C/-19% ^^) and things should be ok and a suitable basis for the dyno runs. That would be my approach, at least. Hubert

You have GuzziDiag I think, don't you? With GuzziDiag you can adjust the warmup line so that you have one constant value for everything above 50°C head/oil temperature. That's basically a good idea for every early KR map, PCIII aided or not. Hubert

@ Docc, did you notice that your side cover is broken? @ Czakky, did you check the mentioned ground cable as shown on Docc's photo? Was it disconnected or broken? Hubert

I like these bikes, the version you picked I like most. Things like poor horns or a cheap seat are nice opportunities I'd say. Have fun with it. Hubert

Did you read the same values at 5000 or could the alternator squeeze out a bit more at higher revs? The manual says 5000 as reference. Hubert