luhbo

Harder or softer, in any case I wouldn't grease or oil these points. This stuff just will catch any dust and rust particles and develop to a most effective abrasive paste. The same is valid for the rear wheel splines. On my bikes I usually keep such points dry. Hubert

Could be so. I've heard similar stories, about 'exploding' CCs, but also about a totally weird Maico suspension layout which would have caused other marques to disintegrate as well. BTW, what is Fox Shoxs? Is this the brand actually equipping mountain bikes ? Hubert

This is an interesting theory, or observation even. I think you implicitly say that the torque coming from the crankshaft winds up the whole drive train and as soon as you pull in the clutch the stored energy makes the two pressure plates snap in one direction, releasing the clutch then makes them sort of snap in the other direction. Why not, at least it sounds reasonable. Anyway, below you find pix from my clutch at 125.000 km. Actually the same parts are above 170.000km, still 100% functionable. I additionally suggest not to wait at red lights or similar in first gear with the clutch pulled in. I think, that's not a defined operation mode and therefore I'd call it 'misuse'. Hubert

Be carefull. Stainless usually is much softer than standard steel bolts are. And stainless is not always stainless, so keep an eye on those new bolts. Hubert

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Yes, so it is. The only thing still loose then is the transmission input gear. Wear between this and the plates should produce noise I think. Hubert

The company originally was Corte&Cosso, so it could well be that the transfer of know-how was exactly in the opposite direction. Hubert

Or they just translate 'shop manual' to 'shop' manual Anyway, you can find a (not complete) list of torque values somewhere on the first pages of the manual. Hubert

Gælic, I guess that's beyond what any Non-Gælic can imagine ^^ Nice try, anyway. I've been searching for 'Platt' and other German dialects, also with no success, unfortunately. That'a real gap in the internet, isn't it? Hubert Edit: you can try Irish, alas also no speaker available

Ageing I'd say, especially the play between the discs and the pinion they're running on greatly increases over time. That's why you can calm down the rattle with short clutch 'airings' - leading to one disc leaning to the left and one to the right shoulder of the cogs. I recently had the exquisite pleasure to listen to a 2000 KR with under 6000km on the clock. Besides a faint valve clicker and the chain wining a little bit this engine runs astonishing noiseless - when new. Hubert

You might check the (electrical) contacts on the other end of the cylinder, too. Hubert

Thx for the link. Rather unspectacular then Before I looked it up here: dict.leo.org This produced more imaginative results Hubert

Once the bike is warmed up the bike should hardly tick over with the bypass screws closed. Close the screws (count how wide they were opended) and test it. If the bike still idles then turn out the left stop until the engine stops. Open the bypasses again and adjust the idle with these screws to something a little above 1000, or, as you cant't count on the counter here, to something what sounds comfortable. That's what I would do. I believe that it's important to have the flaps as closed as possible to achieve good overall results. Hubert

Man, I had to look it up, this word. Does it translate to something like "Mud Hoppers"? Hubert Edit: what happended to this Latin teacher that hung around here some time ago?

uuh oh uh go here: Translator and press the little speaker in the right bottom corner of the left window, then listen carefully Once it goes fluently try the next step: Motorcycle Don't underestimate the correct melody: "Emozione", albeit in particular this word would be pleased by a little more of itself. Maybe they didn't want to get sucked in an endless loop here. Do not press the button in the other window. Hubert

Hi Steve, welcome aboard. Check your tyre pressures (and post in the right subforums ) Hubert

I start prying at the front, still without praying, though. But the KRs are coming into the years as we would say. This or that broken once you've touched it could happen now from time to time. THX for the info. Hubert

..keep us posted, Martin, how the trip goes Hubert

Well, at least I wish I were Super cool story. Is the whole site of this style? Hubert

Do a complete basic tune-up. That means checking TPS when flaps are completely, totaly closed (that means without linkage, stop screws turned back, the flap laying directly at the intake wall), then go through the synchronisation procedure 1:1 exactly as it is described in the shop manual, then check how the bike's running now. Once you're used to this procedure and have understood what step stands for what you could try other methods. If you're a beginner you should stick to the manual. Before you start push back the manifolds that come from the airbox so you can look at the flaps. In case they're open let's say 1,5 or 2mm you've found the reason for your problem. We had the same story over here some weeks ago. Bike came from the shop, did idle quite acceptable, but the owner said it was nearly unrideable. Flaps open, bypass closed, bike #@$&@#@ up, bill payed nonetheless :finger: The above described tune-up procedure helped him. A friend of mine owns nearly the same configuration. Pistons, cam, porting, twin plugs etc. The bike starts and idles absolutely flawless, maybe better than OEM even. Hubert

Did I say anything bad over the Mistral part? Just follow the links, all the arguments and maybe possible reasons for whatever you want you could probably find there. Personally I don't use any of them. I'm happy with my moded Ex-Box or, alternatively, from time to time, with the OEM crossover and a set of MIVV 'Balotellis'. I'm not a friend of the hard bang those 'race' crossovers produce, regardless what bawlers you put behind them. On a side note: the hickup around +-3000 usually points to a lean spot in the map. In case the Mistral can cure this it obviously reduces air flow enough to give a proper AFR in this region. To each his own I'd say. Hubert Edit: just came over this link, basically the same, a tad friendlier to you guys maybe

Ritratto, check out also this site: Doug Lofgren, and in detail this and this. In short: go original or go Stucchi (in this case), but don't go Mistral. This guy was or is not a Guzzi Dealer and had no reason to promote any parts laying around here or there. Hubert

1100? Hm, can't see any need for jugs much bigger than what they are now. Hubert

Yes, yes, go for it. It gives that bit of extra thump you Brits are dreaming of in typical cold, wet and foggy mornings But thanks for the correction. Indeed it should have been a capital o Hubert

In the meantime you can get them online, too. Look here (same link as once given further above) Hubert