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Everything posted by luhbo
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Can't say. It isn't mine. Hubert
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Hawker says that for buffer use (what I think we have here) 13.8V is totaly appropriate for charging. 13.5V woudn't be bad either and would, of course, also give a 100% SOC, it's just a matter of time. The state of charge can be told by measuring the 'idle voltage'. Anything above 12.6 after sitting for 12 hours indicates 100%. Anyway, a Hawker Odyssey or one of its relatives should be the best suiting lead based battery actually available. But as any lead based battery likes to be stored in a completely charged state a proper charging action before winter for instance surely won't hurt. Hubert
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... and do you have the lower handlebars,too? I quite sure the fairing wont work with the standard bars (or vice versa) On the pic you can see both the bars and to what purpose the tube was meant. Hubert
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You know that your frame has the wrong colour? Could it be that the previous owner cut the tube off before the paint job? Hubert
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There should be welded a short, about 4cm long, piece of tube across the stearing head. I have pictures at home, but actually I'm not sure about the level of detail. Anyway, I should be able to post them during the weekend. What I've heard this tube is not on every frame. Could be that someone knows why that's so - but if so then he probably wouldn't want to talk about it Hubert
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welcome back to character
luhbo replied to silverback63's topic in Special place for banter and conversation
and you'll end up on the rich side anyway. Hubert -
Disconnect it and watch what difference it will make. This would be a quick answer to your question. Fiddling with the head temp. sensor often leads to further pain - as the plastic parts of it are rather brittle. Hubert
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How about a "Forum Hero Of The Month" award? It will be interesting how the new and freshly hardened gear will go along with its already worn in counterpart. I hope the new gear wont eat through the old one all in one bite. Hubert
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You checked the "Repairing The Ti Cans" in the How-To section? Hubert
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I could, yes. But I'm afraid that "cut the housing, disassemble the internals, unwrap about 10m or more of 'invisible' copper wire (four chairs in the corners of your livingroom might come handy), rewind the coil so that it's as small as before, resolder, reassemble, recalibrate, install the needle with the correct angle and finally glue together the two housing halves" won't make the most liked posting for the "How To" section Hubert PS: forgot to mention: 'repaint the needle'
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The Veglias at least. They are fragile, indeed. On two of them I found broken coil wires. Hubert
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Mmmmmmmmmh ... beeeeer!
luhbo replied to helicopterjim R.I.P.'s topic in Special place for banter and conversation
Cornish Rebellion, it wasn't that bad. Hubert -
Maybe it's in fact easier to identify the maps themselves. Hubert
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Check out the 'Oil-Temp' tab or however it's called in your XDF. Compare the % correction factor at for instance 70°C. Probably the big difference you mentioned lays there.
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Have fun
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You can think of TunerPro more like a sort of comfortable Excel Sheet. You open the .bin file you got from the Reader and TunerPro will interpret the values into a readable format. With the XDF files TunerPro is told where in the .bin the information is stored and to what those hex-figures should be translated. Once that step is done you can work on your map yourself, make percentual enrichments of certain areas, adjust temperature correction tables, fix spark advance oddities, things like that. It's realy a powerful tool, yet you hardly can do anything wrong or even risk an engine with it. On some site is written: "Maps are sort of software and should be treated as such" - meaning: make a backup of each version, comment your changes/baselines, check whether the changes did what you expected, change one thing at a time, ... Stick to that and you'll have fun with it. And don't expect to much. It's only about driveability and PHP - it won't really help you if your aim were to lift the front wheel Hubert
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Have you also downloaded 'TunerPro'? Got a suitable XDF File? Hubert
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Funny finding Hubert
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I think that picking up a used gearbox, on the long run at least, would be the better solution. Loosing teeth is not what I'd call proper ageing for a gearbox. Have you noticed the pitting that has already built up? Unless you haven't been really rude to your example I'd say you just hit this one box that shouldn't have passed the quality checks at the suppliers. Having your F/F make a new wheel nevertheless is a good idea. Those normally like some challenge from time to time Hubert
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Good job so far. Move on, you'll get it going again soon. Alas the parts probably will be everything but cheap. How many miles/kms has the gearbox done so far? Hubert
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ANSWERED '02 V11 Sport Inlet manifold rubbers
luhbo replied to The Pilgrim's topic in Technical Topics
..alas their stuff's a bit behind, usually. Especially rubber parts. Most of which I got from them were worse than the worn OEM parts. I'd recommend this guy instead: HMB-Guzzi Manifold Hubert -
Boeing used LiCo based cells, something like this. They are the lightest cells, having the highest energy density. Alas they are the most sensible ones. Search for LiFePo4 based batteries (or single cells, maybe). They work. You should nevertheless install some sort of voltage monitoring in case the regulator goes through, delivering 17V and above. This ruins an expensive Hawker as well, but I'm not sure now how LiFePo4s would react to this. I think they just quit. Hubert
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In fact the Lithium technology is a complex thing - lots of variants and different specs. Nevertheless an actual Li-Fe based battery is closer to a Hawker as the Hawker is to a Chinese lead-acid cheapo. They are a plug-and-play replacement now. Hubert
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That's not the point. Lighter is better - louder is faster - and a Sport is Green. You should have known this Anyway, the weight is just a nice add on. The real advantage over the Hawkers is the smaller voltage drop under load. This is a nice improvement unless your bike is starting well anyway - what V11s usually do. So personally I actually would not bin my well working Hawker, but if I were in doubt about it's performance I surely would. Hubert
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It's a good battery and it fits perfectly, nevertheless it seems as if the new Lithium based cells are the upcoming thing. Small, ultra light weight and incredibly strong. Around here more and more of my buddies are using them and they sing marvellous stories about them. Hubert