luhbo

Most changes I've tried so far result in a richer mixture - or, in other words, the Optimiser showing negative correction values. The best compromise indeed is the standard setup, this means the overweight and ugly standard cans When I had those long and open Mistrals on the bike the numbers showed a lot less air (up to 10%) below 5000, but on the other end of the scale and at L=0.8 the closed-loop asked for more fuel than what the nozzles could deliver on 3bar pressure. Hubert

I don't know what I could add. Keep the map between lambda .9 and .95, make changes where you think driveability would accept someting near 1 or, on the other side, would need something a tad richer, and check your progress at the gas station, watching the consumption/efficiency. Next step could be swapping other parts of the system, like pipes, snorkels, or cams if you're that advanced, and watch the effect immediately on your Optimiser's display (as you wrote, too). Next step could be the show part, means how to set ignition and fueling around idle to get the most effect out of short trottle twists while you roll in front between files of cars waiting at the lights - the bike having the correct exhaust mounted, of course This unit really can keep you busy ... Hubert

Hi Jeff, thx for showing up here. Congrats for your blogs! Hubert

Rebuilding/Overhauling the Sachs shock is a good option. I had mine done at HH Racetech here in Germany. He also mounted a hydraulic height adjustement (for going two up), a different spring and a different eye, and I'm really pleased with how this shock works now. If I remember right all this cost me around 500,- Euros. Hubert

You should not run the engine closed loop without an Optimiser (or similar) unless you have a matching map for it. Closed loop is a more or less stationary thing. Use this option for optimising given maps - together with the Optimiser or one of the bluetooth thingies. Even with a well matched map the bike runs better open loop. Unmatched maps can perform really bad when run closed loop. Hubert

It's not on their list. However, this colour normaly is an easy find. Check the colour shops in your area. Lechler for instance calls it GUZ 28, master is 193E. But that's just one type of grey. Maybe there's not much difference between them and that this is the reason that Akzo offers much less different tones. It's a design thing, that's a world beyond any rational experiencies Hubert

Check out what HaydnR wrote. I checked the supplied links, they still work. At least they show you what to look for. http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=16676 Hubert

http://www.motorcyclestorehouse.nl/home Still any questions? The beardy is the owner, so you can guess how much money is sunk in this particular bike. It's a nice film nonetheless. Hubert

Hubert

This might ruin your engine housing as well. I'd not recommend to disconnect/bridge the side stand switch. Hubert

Would you mind posting a picture of it? Hubert

Good point, Guy I'm asking this more or less often meself. It's been V11Sport.de - posted there by a Triumph lover Wait 'till the pics of the new Diavel have made it on the island - maybe the one above might come handy then. Hubert

As a follow up to the nice 'technical assistance' fred: Besides the likely fact that this guy also is part of some however technical assistance team the question came up why he's entering the bike from the wrong side. Can one tell he's a Brit only by this odd approach? Hubert

You're comparing apples to oranges. While tappered roller bearings may last rather long when used for what they were designed, they won't last very long when used in steering heads. It's not a matter of greasing them or not. The difference is the 'rolling'. Besides that I've lately seen an opened BMW 1000 RR steering head - they use a ball bearing for the upper one. On a V11 this should work as well. Hubert

Driving usually is totally overestimated as long as you can spend your time 'doing the maintenance' Hubert

Here are some pics taken while I had my engine open two years ago at 120.000km. These are just things you usually find in an engine that's doing what it was built for. Hubert

This does not apply to the newer end drives. If there's too much radial play at the shaft tip you need to replace at least the small needle bearing that supports the front end of the input shaft. Paul once made a write up here, with pics even. Hubert

Technically nothing of what you say is wrong as such. But how likely is it that the big end shells in this engine let go and how likely is a catastrophic failure as a direct consequence of this? Define 'catastrophic' Knocking big ends are annoying rather than catastrophic I'd say. Even more as you wouldn't want to visually inspect otherwise good shells as long as you don't have the experience for that. They usually don't look new, they probably don't look good even. Maybe some hint about the size of the found flakes would have been helpful. I'd regard it as totaly normal if the oil sump reminds you of glittery make-up powder for instance (hope that's a usable picture). My point is that it not really makes sense to propose always the '100%' overhaul first, based only on assumptions or as in this case on a rather loose question. Hubert

Well, if it was my bike I'd say once it's bits of shell the cheese is up anyway - and see what would happen further on. There's still a very good chance that these bits are just assembly leftovers (broken piston pin clips for instance), sealing stuff, things like that. That's a more unofficial statement, maybe, but being mechanically grown on filterless high KM Beetle engines I have seen a LOT of small bits laying around in oil sumps resp. manhole covers. Hubert

Good you could fix it.

Where's actually the oil going?

It stands for the bolt's strength resp. max. moment. Search Wikipedia, skip the "What is a bolt?" part and go down to "Head markings and properties for metric hex-head cap screws". When you want to make the slots deeper, maybe you better start with 3mm or less. Hubert

More or less. They should be clamped I think, though in most cases (on most V11 I've seen) they aren't. Tightening the screws helps a bit, but not for a long time. If you search for spare bolts you should see to get 12.9 ones and tighten them with 42Nm (loctite won't hurt). Cutting the slots 5mm deeper also helps. Hubert

Once a friend sent me an ECU that seemed to show symptoms of Alzheimer, in fact it more and more forgot whole areas of its map. In the end it only remembered one or two cells near WOT, the rest was gone. Finally it was the CPU that had gone south, nothing you could reset with a simple reflash. On the other hand selling all the options a shop has to its believing followers is good practice in the Guzzi business. Guzzi is a myth, coming near the Guzzi gods lets happen mystic things. That's common sense - and well paid. Hubert

That's not the way how this system, this spring works. Hubert