luhbo

I had the same phenomenon some years ago. The long bolt below the pegs and also the one above the gearbox had came loose. Tighten the lower one, but be careful with the one above the gearbox (it's hidden under the airbox). Tighten this one too much and you'll have cracked the housing. Hubert

It depends on how it looks from the outside and whether its hook will stay fixed and tight. To frickle a bit in the shop and then giving it a few thousand goes on the road are different things. Best fix so far is: go and get yourself a Greeny Hubert

Shifting lever not touching the sideplate? Moving freely, not sticky? Not too much play? The spring is a binary thing. Hubert

Kudos! Hubert

Any numbers, maybe? Other then the rod length the timing figures are still available in the new manuals, and, as usual one might say, those figures are still the same. Hubert

May be so. The real steam punk prefers the Optimiser Hubert

I can't say much about the possible root cause, but I can say that mine shows the same behaviour when it's wet and water does enter the regulator. The red light comes on, but the 'charging'/voltage regulation is properly working. As the rest of the bike is probably stupid enough to ignore how exactly the flowing Amps were produced, under red light or not, I also just ignore it - having a spare regulator laying around somewhere. I forgot to mention that I, same as you, also have some sort of a V-meter attached, otherwise I'd certainly be less ignorant. Hubert

I found that rather tough right from the first time I read about this box and its availability as a kit! Nevertheless I'd be really sorry should you decide rationaly and put it off your list. For me the DIY idea has been the biggest thing with MyEcu. Hubert

Thank you Pete. What I've heard the newer engines (Breva and up) had shorter pistons and longer rods, alas the new shop manuals don't show any details for the rods besides the bearings (don't think a rod has ever been stretched anyway). As the question actually is put more or less out of curiosity don't put too much effort into this. THX, Hubert

Does anyone know the length of a Breva rod? Are the 1200 2V rods even longer? How long are those? Or are they all the same as the V11 rods, 140 mm? Thx, Hubert

My experience with building kits of any form, but mostly with electronic kits as the MyEcus, Optimisers and the like, was that, that a matching pair of reading glasses combined with a thorough reading of the supplied instructions always stood for a more powerful set of tools than any multi-meter or oscilloscope could ever become. Hubert

A theory not very far off I think. As mine is still good I say the advantages to be be gained are less than the effort for building one Hubert

It's been done quite often, with good results, means it works as the OEM part works.

Consider a DIY solution. An Italian friend tried to get one for his Scura, but only got the reply they'd not do any V11 parts any longer. Besides that it's also possible to replace the bushings only - if you can source them, though. Hubert

Or, for trying another approach, call it 'A Horse!' Out there you might get what the secret is Hubert

Exactly the same way as the stock cans, just on the other end of the scale. They've become sort of standard at my place now, being cheap, light and road legal. Search Ebay Germany or Italy to get better offers. I've seen them for smaller figures already, and those were in Euros. Hubert

Be careful when you pull this assy apart. The tiny shaft brakes easily. Hubert

If it is the Stucchi fairing then you would remove the clamping bolt at the upper tripple tree, insert the bracket end with the welded/attached bushing into the T/T and clamp it again with the delivered longer bolt. It's in fact self explaining. If not, you might have bought the wrong parts. Can you provide a picture? Hubert

Well, don't have one on my bike, but I'd say (or remember) sneezing, rattling, poping, strange vibrations, O2-sensor confusion, unexpected side effects so to say . Or, quoting old Donald R., 'unknown unknowns' might happen. I'd just fix that first. Don't try to tighten it, someone over here stripped the bolts trying this. Go for new sealings. Hubert

Fail! That's disappointing, man!

For Roy many things are working somehow differently I suppose. Remove the two bolts and the engine will find it rather heavy to hide its true weight. It won't fall down, there are other bolts at the other end of the block, but surely some sort of jack will do the whole system a big favour. Hubert

What if you visit the reputable shop again? It's probably closer to the bike as the whole internet. Besides that I bet it's just some connection, as the failure is intermittend and 'self-healing'. For the relais it's enough to pull them once and then push them back in again. Also check the connection of the head temperature sensor, it's the blue thingy on the right head. Everything else would cause the engine to stop, I guess. Same for the relais, but a little whiggling them wouldn't hurt. Hubert

Some try it, and then decide to further go on with Beemers .. Hubert

What if the teeth are going just by age reasons? Hubert