luhbo

The stock crossover is as loose as a goose. Should this contribute to the "sneeze"? .... We might be talking about different things. The stock crossover below the gearbox doesn't come loose. The one in front of the alternator does, on a quite regular basis what I've heard. I don't know exactly what other effects besides a nasty rattling this could cause, however, as long as it's loose a lot of funny things can happen. Hubert

I have those NGK Iridiums in for 25.000km now. They deliver just what you expect them to, nothing more. Maybe they're better in a worse or worn engine, or under extremly lean conditions, who knows. BPS6.. is your choice once you've installed 'resistored' caps. One resistor is surely enough. Hubert

Man, you've a brain like an elephant, haven't you? How could you memorize this one? You must have stored it somewhere. Hubert

Does THIS fit this dark thread? Found it when I searched for Kawasaki seals matching Ohlins forks. Try to push a very thin gauge blade, or a piece of celluloid film (for idea's sake), between lips and tube, then move it around the tube one or two times, and hope you've now shoved out all debris what caused the leak. Forums say this works as long as the rings aren't worn.

Of course, I've been just lucky, I know. Last year we had one bike in my neighbourhood suffering the same crack, reason unknown. He bought it that way. Could have been a Scura, too, by pure incident.

MIVV on high hangers, no extra ecu. It's the actual way to go. Cheap, light, and delivering exactly what you and your neighbours ever wanted. About keeping the bike upright: I've trown away mine twice over the last years, with remarkable impact on the surroundings, I'd like to add. So far no housings have cracked. Perhaps it's a colour thing ... Hubert

I wouldn't spend time nor money as long as I could read values like these. Did you have the lights on while you measured them? The charging light on this type of regulators is not a reliable information about whether your battery get's charged or not. Go riding, this summer's is nearly up now. Nice bike, by the way. Have you posted photos of it somewhere? Hubert

Best option in my eyes is to get you an airbox online. Second best probably were to let things as they are now. Your last comment 'sounded' as if you were quite happy with the bike now. Third best would be to cheat the air temperature signal by using a resistor instead of the sensor. Air temperature has not much effect on the mixture what on the other hand makes cheating easy. Besides that, pods usually restrict air flow, so your actual mixture might rather be rich than too lean. Hubert

I'm very happy with my stock crossover. Regardless what silencers are mounted, stock, MIVV or the long and open Mistrals. Seriously no joking. Hubert

Shifting goes smoothest without any clutch at all, upshift at least. So why should a working clutch be the reason for your problem? What you could do is remove the gearbox' sidecover and check whether the shifting forks/pinions move freely. From friends I've heard of 'dog tranny from factory', so that's not too unlikely. In good ones the internals begin to move as soon as you tilt the box a little bit. Having the side cover down you can check this one as well, whether the shifting wheels (and the mechanism behind them)turn smoothly or not. Stop fiddling with the clutch, you've lost one year already. Hubert edit: if you believe it's Redline that keeps the world spinning, you could fill that drained from the gearbox into your rear drive.

Of course they did! They raced it even, albeit without very much success. Also look up Protar Models and the man behind it. What's weird about the pictures? Just one link Hubert

Very nice solution!

You're dealing with the cheapest Veglia units they ever made, the working principle is a hundred years old probably. You have a rotating magneto working against a single clock type spring. Together with a more than cheap-don't-know-what-damping gimmick at one end of the needle's axis it has to wag. Some do it more, some do it less. That's rather typical for cheap devices. Hubert

furthermore check whether the screw that activates the sidestand switch has come loose and so has become too short. Hubert

Ducatis are standard on V11, albeit in two versions. Early ones with charge light, later ones without. For this 2 colour LED you could also go the Wayne Orwig route. He kindly provided schematics for even two versions. The one-LED version you can see here (below the tach needle, near the Zero): Hubert

Well, that's necromancy anyway

Sorry, no clue about that. I can forward your question to someone who knows it. You won't get the plate for free, but the sum you mentioned is just ridiculous. hubert

... what is perfectly true. The internals are totally isolated from the housing, being mounted into a plastic cage. Adding a ground wire to the housing so actually cannot cure anything. The illumination maybe. Hubert

You could as well put it back into the sump again, and two more if you like. What was the reason for the retarded oil light? Have you found it, too? Hubert

What you could do is to ask the one who did the remapping whether he changed the spark map. You could eventually ask him/suggest to download the spark map of a catalysed version. They have a bit less advance under load, I think, but remarkably more in the cruising region. Best option of course is to keep the bike as it is now and make no further experiments. Have fun! Hubert

Yes, good point. Mine was rather where to pick up the temperature, with what instruments and with what accuracy. Best solution probably is to rely on good quality oil and to skip any guessing devices. 'Was ich nicht weiß, macht mich nicht heiß' Hubert

Don't use a tender. They're just aging this type of battery, nothing else. You can store a fully charged Hawker for two years and more, the cooler the better. I don't know about the fuel issues. It's not an issue here, at least not in the forums I know. Besides that, in case you worry about fuel issues, it's probably better to have the tank empty as it's plastic and so not prone to rust. Also an empty one is easier to handle, just in case you're getting bored during winter and then want to check the air filter for instance. For the combustion chambers you could use 'Fluid Film Liq.A'. http://www.fluid-film.dk/. It's used against sea water with very good results and they recommend it for engine conservation as well. Just in case you can't resist. BTW, is it really time for hibernation action up there already? Hubert

Then you might ask for the little Honda behind the V7. That looks good, too, if not better Or is it a 650 Yamaha even? Maybe you should be a bit more direct in this case. Hubert

Again, what do you mean with '...when I unplug the TPS, the backfire goes away...'?

Answering directly to your last post I still wouldn't worry. I have a Quat-D installed with rather thin and light headers, and they tend to glow nearly as bright as cigarette tips, if I want them to. It has very little to do with lean or rich conditions (your's is running very fine as I could read). Headers start to glow when fuel still burning enters the exhaust, something typically happening at idle or more generally at RPMs not matching what the cam, what the whole system was designed for. At idle and low speeds the missing/insufficient cooling adds its part, too. About oil temperature: I'd become nervous at 100°C. Keep in mind that this measuring device never will show the oil's temperature, it will only show it's own one. From the tip down in the sump up to the gauge it's quite some distance and you don't know how much heat is lost on its way up there or how accurate this gauge is at all. Besides that the sump is the coolest place in the whole engine. The temperatures above the heads, below the pistons, in the big ends are higher, probably much higher. So some reserve won't hurt. Answering indirectly to your first question: why don't you just take the bike back to the dealer/mechanic and say: "Well, it runs really fine now, but I asked a internet forum and they told me your work is probably not that good for my engine, want to say: your work is crap!" This could make a good first scene for a interesting short movie Hubert