luhbo

Today's the last day for getting the free ballooned Union Jack. No Wax Cotton, oiled silk instead. Hubert

Landini makes quite versatile engines: The compression ratio/pressure thing is not that difficult as you don't need to answer on how much work or energy you have to bring to achieve the given results. You can go with p*V/T=constant. Then you get the mentioned 11bar = 160psi with a temperature rise from [Edit:]20°C up to 30°C 293°K (20°C) up to 455°K (182°C). Some time ago I came over this link: Shell Thuet and his tools It looks as if he used the thing a lot Hubert

Due to the open inlet valve you should start your calculation with a CR of 7.6, maybe 8. Heat I would neglect because the engine is a huge cold lump and will keep the temperature quite constant during this short procedure. Hubert Edit: if temperature was constant a Diesel engine would not start

... that's why they call it death-wobble I guess But no need to argue here. When I checked lorry wheel bearings on a weekly basis once this was the proper method. Screw in the bearings until you feel the wheel going locked, then loosen 45° and fix the nut. Easy thing. Some good time ago we discussed here what adjusting method the fellows down in Mandello would use for this task. Besides avoiding any grease in this process they obviously get the rest of it working astonishing well. One had the idea they might use a spring balance attached to one fork leg and then torque the bearing down until moving the fork shows the proper force (or responding hinge moment). I mean, you normaly can't tell a badly paid line worker "just make it right", they need some objective guideline. hubert

Binding is a bit vaguely defined with the above. Therefore, if you want to have a little chance to get it right you should first remove everything what is similar to binding, means snakes, cabel harnesses, heavy wheels and brake shoes, things like that. In theory the above mentioned is right of course, in fact I always had too tight bearings this way. One reason can be that the bearing seats are not necessarily perfectly round, or parallel to each other, can't say. These at least are the places where the 'frame doctors' start their voodoo stuff. Having the thing a little bit on the loose side for me worked perfectly so far. But as always: to each his own. Hubert

They shouldn't be tight. Loose them so that you can hear or feel a faint movement, then you're on the safe side. A loose head bearing will ruin the bearing, but not your driving. Hubert

Falling into the curves is just and only a matter of inapropriate steering head adjustment (broken frames, nearly lost engines and other bullshit excluded). In 2006 I 'lost' nearly a complete season until I finaly got there. Or of a well worn Michelin, maybe, but not of the red frame geometry itself. If one thinks that this frame was nervous he should let down the rear (reduce preload) and rise the front by pushing down the fork .5 or even 1cm. It's a smooth bike, also even highly packed at WOT in long bends at +-200. That's how I experience my V11, it has nothing to do with 'Guzzi is faultless per se'. And for 1100 Sports going straight - I know of more but 1 people who exactly that do not like and either went for short frames or cut/welded the heads of the long ones in exactly the opposite direction. Hubert

No, normally not. Their China stuff usually is crap, and OEM parts you can get for the same money at HMB for instance (Guzzi only). Anyway, there's not much what could go wrong with these Duc shims, so why not there. Keep us posted, so far I only could read about it. Consider also the possible need to shorten the valves a bit to keep the kinematics at least in range (tools at hand?). Don't know how thick these shims are. Hubert

No idea, sorry. I thought it could hardly become worse as it was already, and as the 2.option with the $$$s was not an option I just did it. So far (25.000km) all is fine. I will make a picture next time I look after it. Actually I'll loose a finger or two should I touch anything 'frosted' outside Definitely. There is not very much movement between the mating surfaces, so nothing bad should just fall out of the blue. Just watch it, now as you're sensitised for it. Next time you pull the bearing pin you might want to mark its orientation and compare that with how the pin itself is wearing. My experience says that these rockers always look like that after 'some' time. I had 4 or 5 engines over the years, all with 100.000 at least (never bought a new one so far), so I don't think it's really a matter of batch. Hubert PS: this mug has done 125.000km. Would be nice if I had a picture of it at 50.000

In case you're after something weird: Free Download until Feb-18 (scroll down a bit) You may like this one, too: Of course he has a Union Jack, too (Feb-18), especially for the Scots here

I noticed that over the time the valve train became remarkably louder and I thought this particular point could be part of the emissions. It was not. Anyway a smooth surface there could take off some stress from the valves' endings, as you wrote already, otherwise the valve guides will go even quicker (bigger lateral forces). If you still have the heads off you could consider the Guzziology idea of arming (and enlarging) the valve ends by putting Ducati shims over them. Hubert

Mine would make another 50.000 with these, probably. You can regrind and polish the rockerarm using an oil stone. Pitting is not a matter of oiling and not uncommon at highly stressed parts (gears, reardrive e.a.). Hubert

As you own a 2001 you should have none. Funny. Hubert

These days' freebies: Hubert

Use easy Locktite for the cover screws. Hubert

That's wrong. They mean 'mechanicaly disconnected', means flaps completely closed, zero degrees. Would be interesting to know what butcher made these photos then Hubert

Remove the plugs, put in 5th or 6th gear, hold the thumb on one of the plugholes and push the bike forward/backward. It's easy to notice the piston blowing. TDC is reached as soon as this stops. Look into the hole and you'll see the piston. Maybe you want to wait for warmer days, as a frozen engine is really hard to turn over. You don't need a degree wheel for setting the valves. There are markings on the flywheel nevertheless. Hubert

Today's the last chance to grab your Flying Fortress Hubert

Scotland, of course. Nevertheless you should have something at least of what could be called Winter. Hubert

I like those short V11, they're always good for nice pictures. Is that an actual one, by the way? So green the landscape already? Makes me a bit nervous. The filled up tank is a good thing, you can let it stay closed a bit longer then Hubert

Update: actual freebe (until Jan.20.) Vought Corsair F4U Hubert

Hi co-hibernators, Just recently I received an email from a guy who's trying to make a living out of card models and other art things - and this since many years. Somehow this works it seems. At least it used to, obviously he actually thinks that a bit more public attention for his business could improve things for him a bit. Check out his site: http://www.fiddlersgreen.net(with free appetisers) and, maybe, do him a little favour. I don't know how many of his kind still are around nowadays. Not too many probably. Besides that, his site is nicely done and really interesting to read. Lots of pics, 3-views, technical background and more. Enjoy Thanks Hubert

She's a nice one, Roy. Hubert

Don't worry about the ramps, they're 'endless'. Dial in .3mm and you're still well within the ramps. Hubert

...like your signature. Let the stories come Hubert