luhbo

Glad you liked it. Come through if you come here again, you'll be welcome Servus Hubert

That's exactly what came to my mind, too, when I initially read the above question. More bite than the stock Brembo pads offer can deliver Lucas Sinter ones. I had them in once and found them on one hand very progressive, but also rather temperature dependend and, very annoying, rather unforgiving in case you had your eyes elsewhere and therefore screw in a bit in a hurry. Compared to the Lucas the Brembos feel dull but very linear. Take it as some sort of mechanical ABS Hubert

Probably. My manual says the same at least. I thought one could try .1 for the inlet valve and .25 for the outlet, or maybe vice versa, means .15 for the outlet and .2 for the inlet. Basically I try to adjust the valves as tight as possible, so if the positive effects on idle and transition could be achieved with only one valve a bit wider this would do also. Hubert

Try running it with the inlet tight, the exhaust wide instead. It should give you both, stable idle and uncompromised top end. And only one valve tickering. Just an idea, actually. Those running timing gears could try to advance the timing 2 to 3 degs. Works quite well what I've heard. Hubert

Interesting pictures. Thank you. I never was too happy with the Buell solution because the put my feet to much to the outside. Hubert

If they really dribble then you need new, at least different/overhauled ones. Last winter I checked mine because of one exhaust port being white, the other one sooty, and I found that one delivered 170ccm/min, the other one only 140ccm if I remember correctly. At least the difference was in this range. Later, after 'endless' cleaning, I searched after specs for them and the lower number was the right one, the bigger value just a result of a worn nozzle. Testing them is quite easy: pull them, bridge the fuel pump (at the relais socket), apply 12V to the injector and let it spray for a minute (or 30 sec only) into a suitable pot. Despite the fact that one was worn and needed replacing they did not at all dribble by the way. If it is only because of this one drop hanging at the bottom side of the ducts I wouldn't worry. Also it is totally normal that from time to time after some fruitless attempts of starting a cold engine the fuel might really pour out of them. The ecu is flooding a cold engine very much like you did it on 50s/60s bikes (20ms/cycle compared to 12ms at WOT/8000). Hubert

I'm with you with the "sell what sells" thing, but for what a RBW system? Launch Control? Hyper smooth rain mode? Hubert

They went one step further even. What I heard the plan was to sell them in the first place to urban based maxi-scooter folks. No wonder that those aggregating at motorcycle forums in most cases react a bit undercooled. What I do like at the small blocks is their simplicity compared to the new 1400 engine shown on the pics above. It's the simplicity what makes a motorcycle engine. Hubert

Would be interesting where the owners went. For most of them Guzzi was sort of a one night stand probably. The biggest problem with those small ones might be that you can't upgrade them. As my 750S was already a big and heavy motorcycle it was just a natural transition to a LM engine and later on to a LM3. Buying 800+ cylinders for a small block won't bring the same satisfaction. With a small block you're stuck and forced to make a decision sooner or later. Hey, you small block owners, have you seen the new black W800 special edition already? Hubert

You were also down in Mandello at the GMG this September? You probably won't find many people which would count the Stelvio as one of their favourites. For most it's for sure just something you gotta have under your belt.

Hm, this might be based on a very common misconception of the Alps and the streets there. The point is NOT to be very fast on the straight parts. You normally start low down, in warm and green landscape, and end up very high in a totaly, at least very different environment, cold and rawboned. In-between lays no racecourse but constant search for the correct line, timing the overtaking, smooth shifting, listening to the engine,things like that. Take the hair-pin bends in second, the straights in third, max. fourth. With this concept and on a Guzzi you do a favour to yourself and to the landscape. Besides that you won't be the last one at the top - mostly because of the second gear in the bends. Hubert

Some say that is so, some say it's not. So far no one could show me a drawing or the like to proof the first or the latter. In my case, that means in my very special case because I did that on my own bike and not on the net, and important as well, for free, my colleague had to take down rather much material because of the inevitable pitting. For me that is good for 15.000 kms now. The entire experiment was well worth its costs. Anyway, if you had to pay for grinding and on top of that have a set of probably weak tappets anyway, of course you better buy a set of new ones. They shouldn't ruin the budget. Hubert

Your gasket is and was ok. Search other forums or engine shops in your neighbourhood for shops specialised in regrinding cams. I had mine redone after 120.000 km for about 100 USD, incl. hardening and S/H. You need a template, though. Maybe one of your US fellas has one laying around to help you out. Regrinding your tappets is no option unfortunately, as one is crap anyway. I had mine regrinded at the company I work for, just a plain cut of 0,1 mm, without rehardening, and they do well for another 15.000s km in the meantime. Hubert

Could you show a picture of the worn surface, please? Hubert

Any brand name?

Where do you find your quotes? The above would legitimate a slightly more acurate description than just that rather skinny "from a couple of places on the net". Hubert

Thx for answering. Mine passed at 56, leaving me a SR500, now owned by my elder, 21 year old son, after standing around for 25 years +. After what you write about your technical background I'd just buy a new battery (as previously mentioned already), preferably a Hawker product, and ride on. All you need to know about that special bike you will find written down in the Users' Manual. It's not much what differs from any other motorcycle. Hubert

How old was your father?

The linkage is not up to the task you overload it. The engine will run rather badly synchronised this way. I like the idea, though. Hubert

Why don't you take her out for some more sweet rides before the clutch surgery? I mean it's always nice to have some sweet memories of yesterday. Field surgery is a risky thing and will always leave scars no forum can wipe off just so hubert

Yes, were 2 great days. The event and the journey to and fro, especially the fro I really had enough and took the car for the rest of the week. There was a little bit of discussion between this guy and another one crawling across the path in front of his bike when he arrived on Friday evening, as if the bike wasn't loud enough to give him a warning. Hubert

Ask him why they see no need for lowering the compression ratio. If I'm right than these Beemers are already at nearly 1:12 or so, static. Can't think of how this should work then. On the other hand, this Dacar seems not to be a Togo based internet fake. Where does their money come from? Hubert

Another question: the efficiency of the whole process will stay nearly the same, means you'll still have about 70% losses dissipated as heat. If he claims 70% increase of power output he should also talk about roughly 70% additional heat output. Hubert

Yeah, the mule. It's always been the cause of hassle and a big selling handicap. Good to hear that they swapped to a more business oriented type of give aways now. I'm not sure whether this will help in your particular case, being a married teacher, at least it'll make it easier to shed it at your neighbours'. BTW, are you sure the mule in your dream is not yourself? Hubert

Take the PC out or download a zero map and your bike will go very well enough to go down the street, and back even. Don't worry. Hubert