luhbo

Personally I'd keep the Centauro as a Centauro, it's a nice collector's item and the engine IS outdated anyway. Isn't it possible to adapt an actual, reliable and really powerful 8V to the 'old' gearbox as well? They might be a bit harder to get, that's true, and don't have as much of the older 'steam punk' look, too. But they really have the grunt. hubert

Maybe something in this direction: Hubert

I'm glad/relieved you like it. Despite being great bikes they don't work for everyone, can't say why. Quite recently, in a German forum, a former forum well known problem V11 reapeared with a new owner - who just loves it. The PO gave it away for getting closer to a SLK Convertible. Hubert

Could be a DAES tail. Some Germans/Suisses/'Bade-Wuerdebercher' might pay for it. Paul could cross-post the pictures if you want to sell something. Where does it come from? Was it a German one? Hubert

Check out this: Valeo Repair An easy procedure to test the solenoid is some careful knocking on the solenoid while you have the starter knob pressed. Don't knock on the starter motor itself, resp. the mag housing, as these parts are delicate enough and do not need any further stressing. The solenoid itself is hard to damage, but its assembly obviously has some tendency to become sticky from decade to decade Mine is a 2000 and last week it was time for this the second time (lost the mags 4 or 5 years ago) Hubert

No, it's the last way to go. It's for those that go for bling. Hubert

Check and clean the solenoid. Hubert

Mine goes smooth and easy from 2000/2500 up to the limiter, so it could be exactly your bike. It has a stiff driveshaft and a flywheel worth its name. That makes the difference to the Ducatis, those sporting a "rubber like" chain combined with a low inertia engine. You'll like the V11, go for it. Hubert

Big engines in small bikes are nothing extraordinary. Big Vees in small Tontis would be extraordinary, or better extraterrestrial. Hubert

No need for that.

On second thought: why should roller tappets be a quieter solution as the actual harmonic cams? Maybe something like combined roler/hydraulic tappets. But then don't mention the weight of such parts. Hubert

Thx, Paul. A lot of work probably to check the net for GMG snippets If it's only this vague picture, all in all about 2 seconds, then the V12 is as coming as a V14 would be. Would be the first big engine in a small frame ever, anyway. At least one can say that it's not only the internet that has the Guzzi ideas, or that Guzzi is following the world leading forums

I don't want to subscribe there. Is the video available somewhere else, too?

Funny, we were talking about snowy Majola crossings just on Saturday With the Spluga closed you had not much options left then. I caught a hefty cold for the rest of the week btw. I didn't expect this on Friday

... as you wrote: it would need two complete heads to be swapped, probably. I meself would look for a 1200 Sport engine, just in case I would look, you know. I'm still so far away from the new engines Actually, as winter is near, I think of swapping the standard 2V tappets against wider/bigger ones. This would give some pretty nice camshaft options. The actual 22mm are used since the first V7 engine was built. That's no longer up to date with so powerful springs existing now. Would be nice if I could find some car based alternatives (meanwhile probably from a vintage car also). Hubert

Where was the snow, Paul? With all these trees around it was not that high. On Sunday I erratically took the way over the Bernina, coming out at the bottom of Stelvio. Already soaked and cold I made it up to the Umbrail crossing and there I chickened out. Car drivers coming down from the peak told stories about at least 10cm of snow at top of the route, so I went down again via Umbrail and decided to go home in one sweep (2am on Monday ) I had the option of staying overnight at Vipiteno at a friend but was glad I didn't because later he called me and said that on Monday the Austrian side of the Brenner was closed due to heavy snow. Funny now, sitting outside and expecting another last at least 20°C day. Hubert

NOISE sounds good. Why could you already hear one of those new engines? Are the roller tappets an update even for the smaller 8Vs (another new engine)? Besides being quieter these parts are a good piece heavier as well so they're no real option for a high output sports engine Hubert

Yes, the same and pretty stock.

As Gavo said already: brute force in your case. Normally it should slip out rather easy. Be careful in order not to deform or widen the tube. It must always go through the upper and later on through the lower bearing. To get off the lower bearing normally is the real task. Sorry in advance for not having a good hint for that. I usually flex those down. Hubert

I don't see a real need to challenge my statement. Aluminium has this tricky behaviour, even the expensive alloys are not free of it. The Young-modulus and the resulting 3x bigger deformations are a fact, too. If you don't follow very special design rules or even avoid the material completely for certain applications it will give you problems. Now I don't see where the design of the steel wheel and the light alu one differs. Using such a bodgey flywheel for racing purposes may be something different, very similar to aviation if you like. But then you should keep the same maintenance intervalls as they have them for racing - or for aeroplanes. I at least wouldn't want to open my bike every 2.500 km just to check whether things are still fine, the more as 'being fine' is not clearly defined. Will you then change it as soon as the smallest crack is visible or only after the first small parts have come free? Hubert

The coils are switched against ground. Positive is the Red/Black wire. Check whether it's alive at the coils as long as the pump runs. Also listen to the fuel pump when you press the starter button. It comes on for a short while when you turn the key to on, then it should come on again as soon as the engine starts turning (you pressing the starter). Can you hear the pump come on again? If not it's probably the phase/timing sensor or any of its parts (cables, connectors etc.) The relais should be ok, because the ecu obviously is able to initially trigger the pump. Hubert You have no flywheel sensor on a V11, by the way...

I don't use it either, rather by the same reasons you mentioned. Nevertheless I would be very careful with statements as the one above. I never heard anything about the need to tune a bike to accept E10. This is surely not a known issue. Why did you do this? How did the bike behave with E10 and no special tune up? Hubert

The relais are fine. The contacts at the socket are weak. Swapping the relais often improves the contact enough for for the relais to work another season. Go riding this weekend. Hubert

You see it everywhere on your engine, so far it's ok, but not for such a high stress connection as on the flywheel. The steel one is fixed with 12.9 screws, the corresponding torque and glue for security. It's the nature of aluminium to creep away under such loads. That's also the reason you don't find it very often in electrics/electronics for bus bars and other elements that have to be screwed down. The connections will come loose. Next thing is the Young modulus. It's one third of the steel one. As the flywheels have very similar dimensions you could estimate the deformations under load to be 3x the ones of a steel wheel. For a flywheel I think it's quite an edgy solution. Hubert

You might try Enzo's solution posted in another thread. He lifted the whole back of his V11, at least 2 cm I think, and claimed a big improvement in the direction you're searching something. Hubert