luhbo

Next time try it with a northerly 'gutsy' Hubert

as you now have removed the switch, does the light still shine? I think a damaged cable isolation would be more likely than a wimpy pressure switch. Regarding the filter, was it still tight when you canged it? Hubert

Is this a Texas thing? Really keen on seeing the oil spring up?

Before you start the engine again, make sure the oil filter still sits tight. For you the easiest approach might be if you remove the pan, first having it drained of course. I would not loosen the hose at the back of it by the way. Also it might be a good idea to check the drained oil (and the dismounted pan) for metal chips. Not the tiny ones - I mean those which you can really see Hubert PS: I would not start the engine without the sensor. It IS a mess, you won't do your engine a favour and the oil will spill out even when the filter has come loose. No gain to expect here. Should the sensor be defect (what happens quite often - internal corrosion) the light will stay OFF, not ON. Pics here

don't remove the bearings, 's no need for. hubert

I have the My15M running since fall 2004, MK1 first, then until today the MK2. For me that's 100.000 km. I never had a problem with EFI during these years that were caused by this hard- or software. In fact it helped me a lot when I was facing other problems like a worn TPS or actually worn injectors (10% offset). It's exactly as Cliff says: keep it simple. The more buttons/options you have on a EFI system, the less you should use them as long as you're not 100% sure about what exactly they're doing. Nevertheless, the engines we deal with are really very tolerative. I say it's very unlikely one will do any harm to his' as long as he sticks to the standard map provided with each unit, for instance. Try it out, it's fun and it's an experience I at least would not want to miss. Hubert PS: if you don't get your bike properly running with the OEM ecu, then there is a good chance you will run into problems with the MyEcu either. Maybe because of other parts failing, maybe because it's just not your business.

The Sonny Barger's one came out here maybe 5 years ago. It sold not too bad. At least the publishers thought they could sell more of this stuff, so after a while they came up with at least 5 remakes like "I've been an Angel...", "I've been inside ...", "I've been the chief witness..". Needless to say that all these blokes still are number one on whatever dead list there might be, at least if you could trust the sleevenotes. The Barger book (only read the first, and none of the mockups) was quite interesting. If you're through with your's you might consider this one too. It covers the making of "Easyrider" as well as Altamont, things like that. Hubert

Right, but the PC above it does not so. So any faults here become multiplied instead of compensated.

Don't think you're too old for that. You have a V11 either, and being a bit slower, that means thinking twice before screwing up all available buttons, will only be helpful. So if you're about buying one, do it. hubert

I'd check the valve clearings first. Set them to .15mm/.20mm in/out or both at .22 if you want. Especially the intake valve should not be tighter than .15. As long as that's the only problem I def. would not bother with synhronisation, TPS and whatever more technical fantasy might bring up. This can help as well, especially when the unit was tuned for a completely different height elevation (thx). hubert

These switching probes can only tell lean from rich, not really something in-between. If you want to upgrade a wideband O2 system should also find place in your budget. At least you have a harness that will let you feed the signal into the ecu, maybe for two probes even. hubert

Then you better book now. This evening better than tomorrow hubert

Sorry for being a bit quick with my answer. The KR and earlier bikes don't have this 4 pin connector spliced in already. hubert

Yes, me for instance. Have planned tent and Lido (if still possible). From which side would you enter Italy?

Wow!

No, you can't. If you plug anything else but the right things into this 3 pin connector you'll probably fry the ecu. Switching to a MW15M-RC (or so) won't help either 'cause you don't have the right harness in your bike. hubert

Have you noticed the 850GT-redish one on this Tulsa site? Probably one exclusively made for your market. Hubert

Sometimes it's hard to tell an engine dying of starvation from one simply drowning. Most people are drowning their engines (it's easy with carbs). What you describe could be drowning as well. With the standard ecu. They're usually well on the 'safe' side. If the PC pump makes things even worse then this may be another hint in this direction. Hubert

No, it has nothing to do with starting the engine, although you can use this pump in case you don't have a choke (older Porsche engines e.g.) nor a starting (secondary) fuel circuit/carburetor (as featured by Dell'Ortos). Bernoulli on the other hand is "thunder-fast", what for the small distances in a carburetor or inlet duct is quite the same as the usual lightning-fast (in relation to the speed of the rest of the parts, valves, pistons,..). So basically at the same moment as you open the throttle the pressure inside the inlet duct rises, also at the same moment the vaporised fuel condenses and either falls out at the duct walls or floats around as rel. heavy dropplets, staying way behind the still lightweight and because of the now higher pressure quickly accelerating airflow down the combustion chamber. Anyway, the WM15 has a well working pump emulation implemented, so why don't you just set the PC thingy right to zero? hubert

Does "acceleration" in plain english mean "starting"? Is it a problem of language at all? If acceleration translates to what I think it should to, then 15 turns normally turn out as a rather short time. 20 is not much longer btw. Of what amount of additional fuel are you talking? Can you adjust this value as well? hubert

Pull the pushrod first. It's a not too difficult task (unless you don't strip the small bolt). Take care of how the shims and springs are arranged. Maybe it's only this pushrod that went. hubert

I'd say yes. It's better if you try this in 6th gear, and even then you need a firm grip. It comes from the valve springs. They're strong. hubert

I have, of course! I'm a grown 6V kid, you know hubert

Yes, that might be so. My point was that an alternator doesn't pump current. You might see higher than average currents in case the regulator goes nuts. What you discribe would cause a slight shift of the regulation target only. No real chance to fry the regulator or any other part of the bike this way I'd say. When my regulator quit its regulating service I first noticed a smashing headlight (at the price of two bulbs a week) and then, more annoying even, a heavily sweating but only three weeks old Hawker battery. Hubert

You could slip a piece of an old inner tube over them, under the clamps, to protect the cans. Of course this adds a bit to the "hard working dog" appearance of the bike. So if you are more the bling bike type this might not be your favorite solution.