luhbo

Breakfluid is hygroscopic. So the dry boiling point applies as long as the fluid is freshly filled up from a sealed container only. When the B/F will have become wet depends on several things. The climate you're located in, how well sealed your brake system is and so on. I think changing the fluid every two years or so is a proper interval to keep you on the safe side. But remember - the B/F is hygroscopic also in the can you bought it in. The water saturation level can be determined by a good shop, by the way. Hubert

Have you ever tried out one of their instruments? Perhaps this is a good comparison. The instruments they build are more or less perfect, at least very well done. The point is, they are all equal to each other. You have to take what they offer. It makes no sense to try choosing between 5 examples of the same type, they respond and sound all in the same way. Try out some of equally well done european make and you'll immediately feel or sense the difference. Good instruments answer to you. The Japanese ones basically do that also, the problem is you have to like this single story they can tell. If you don't you can't become friends, they won't learn your language. About Pirsig: he wrote this book in the early 70ies, didn't he? I read it in the early 80ies and can remember a certain fascination I felt then. This memory was what made me buy it 2005 when I had 6 weeks off time and read it again. This time it was a real boring experience. Interesting, obviously another example that every thing has its time. Coming before its time people won't accept it, coming after its time people will reject it. BTW, this book never was motorcycle literature. Hubert

At least this is a very good spot to thank you for sharing these informations. I guess I did forget this the last time I had the oportunity Hubert

Today these bikes indeed are "end-cool". Here is the one I recently revived after some 20 years for my elder son. 20kw - yet it moves. Amazing! The only problem is: you really need space if you're a messy like that. Besides that, I'm sure a Clubman like yours would still fit in some corner. The times when this was a bike nobody wanted definitely are history. Hubert

That's a pity, Raz. Don't know what next year will be. Hubert

Then what's your affinity to this special avatar? Hubert

It probably would. The thing is, normaly you don't carry around a piece of vacuum in your pocket, and if you had it then how would you connect the hose to it On my bike the bubbles go out when I turn the key or kill switch on and off for a few times. In most cases they then find their way back into the tank through the left side, the petcock. Anyway, if you hear the pump whine instead of the usual noise it makes it makes no sense to start the engine. Swich on and off until the pump sounds normal and only then go on. Another hint: start the engine WOT when it's so hot that you suffer from vapour lock. It helps to keep the throttle bodies attached to the cylinders Hubert

This is the Carl Allison Standard Reference HIH, Hubert

No, there isn't. And at the lever isn't one as well. It's the same system as on the front brakes. No need and no possibility to adjust something. You always must have a little play between the lever and the main cylinder piston. Hubert

Hi Dan, acting the smart ass again or what? Please keep things fair and quote other members correctly. Thank you. Anyway, here's another one out of my "My favorite quotes" collection: Hubert

Are you a pylon racer, Lukas? Hubert

In fact it were A0 types. Actually I have an A8 laying on the table, labelled Supersport750 - DUCATI_004. When I put it in my V11 the pump stayed dead - a V11 ROM then brought it to life. So it's obviously the way as Cliff described it. As the OEM ecus probably have all pins connected to the controller it's just a question of different I/O layers in the different ROM contents. On the other hand it's quite tricky with the available tools to alter a V11 ROM to suit a different pressure sensor (in this case the one used in the A8 versions). THX for sharing this info. Hubert

It's not a shame, it's a must. Because 98% of this entire thread were nonsense. As GuzziMoto said: it might be ok to cheat the ecu by altering one or more sensor signals, simulating a cheapo PC this way. Some resistors and a switch will do for that. But everything else in this context, in these postings, was as I've already said just plain nonsense. Hubert

That's funny. I bought at least 2 900S ecus for small money, switched the flashrom from Duc to V11 and never had any problems with them. The V11 engine also starts and runs with a Duc900 ecu without any modifications. So to me it seems as if the differencies between Duc 900 and MG V11 are not that big. Hubert

Punch, what is the difference between V11 and Ducs regarding the pinning? THX, Hubert

This may be. Titanium ecus f/i are often based on Cali ones, don't know why. Hubert

That's only the housing. "California" says nothing about the uploaded map. Besides that the Ballabio should be rideable even if it was a genuine Cali map. Hubert

Forwarded it to our chancellor. Actually she's a lot on duty doing patrio campaigns due to the soccer W/C. Now, on second thought, I'm afraid it may lead to unpredictable results... Hubert BTW, do you know who's the girl in the center of these pictures? Edit 8.7.2010: 0 to 1 - she probably did it

A light grey, silvery finish similar to how it's actually pictured would suit the bike quite well I think. Where does this megaphone come from? And I like the blackened "Ex-Box". Hubert

They are controlled by the ECU, yes. The ECU is grounding them, Plus comes via one of the relais which is also triggered by the ECU. The fuel pump hangs on the same line, so this part should work I guess. The phase sensor is sitting on the upper left part of the timing cover, near (below) the oil pressure switch. You can't do very much with it besides checking its resistance. My initial question was: after the pump was priming for the usual 1 or 2 seconds, does it come on again for another few moments after you've pressed the starter button? In other words: does the ECU recognise a moving engine, signalled by the phase sensor? Hubert

Nice one, really. It'll also help to keep yourself mounted during your race days. Hubert

I'd check the phase sensor. An easy test is to listen to the fuel pump: does the starter trigger the pump? Hubert

Not.

That's absolutely normal. You probably don't have a temp. gauge installed, but having an Optimiser installed I have seen that above 25°C (shadow) moving the V11 in urban traffic quite quickly leads to temps above 120°C. This being just a number the feeling for this is not just hot - glowing or cooking hot is more appropriate. Oil temperature then might be not far below that. So you shouldn't screw up the whole bike just because the engine feels hot when used inappropriately and because you have this PC thingy at hand. BTW: an open exhaust makes the AFR some 5% richer at midrange and some 5% leaner at the top end. Nothing the stock map wouldn't cover. BTW 2: a PC is totaly useless if not even counterproductive for addressing running conditions as high engine and high ambient temperatures. Hubert

No no, better keep the ball going low. The latter rather was some sort of virtual suicide I'd say. Hubert