luhbo

Yeah, and really creepy. One dead now, one virtually dead. Strange thing. Hubert

What you think it is an adjustable compression damping is in reality an adjustable hydraulic stop only. At least if you have the early legs with compression left and rebound right. In this case it's probably normal what you describe. Hubert

TuneBoy is not working with WM15 ecus what means there are no diagnostics available for this ecu. TuneEdit works but my experience is that you should really check what exactly this programm offers and how it works. It's still under developement I'd say. Hubert

It'll have you hooked right from the moment the engine fires for the first time. You'll have built something for your bike and your bike will answer to it. And this part will not be a piezo honk for the indicators I don't think I can imagine how Cliff felt when he had his first unit incl. the software ready and the engine really started up with it. Hubert

I recently have reactivated my TuneEdit-ed OEM ecu, just out of curiosity. It works, I can alter the maps and watch the ARF meter showing different values after that. I can alter the spark map and watch the consumption going down. So far that's ok. But that's it. No more possibilities. And my experience is that working on maps without a wideband O2 probe is rather useless. Working on maps without some really comfortable logging device is useless as well. So for anybody interested what EFI means and how it works a MyEcu, an Optimiser and of course a wideband probe is obligatory - because it makes EFI touchable and understandable. It makes the world become your every days' dyno For those interested every other system is more or less wasted time only. The last based on the fact that the OEM ecu with/without an updated OEM map works ok as well. Hubert

... no, it doesn't. Hubert

Nice landscape. What camera do you use to picture it? Hubert

FalcoLion, are you using all this info commercially? For supporting your online store? Hubert

Don't take this way. Of course a late regulator will leave you stranded, but so will do broken camshafts, gone big ends or dead ecus. Such parts just have to last - and usually they do. Hubert

That's for the value

Cool! Sad I don't have friends there Hubert

That's an interesting thread. My regulator problems began with a "leaking" battery and two burnt headlamps in a row. Basically it's been the 2nd burnt bulb what made me measure the voltage. 17V at 4000 - and a sweating but quite new Hawker! This was last october after some days in rain and cold. A short time cure was to cook the regulator in our kitchen oven at 120°C for 2 hours. During winter I then cut out the plastic stuff down to the PCB. The idea was more to make it easier for the internals to dry. Anyway, once remounted the regulator was completely dead. Only then, using a 10x microscope at work I found some solder points, not only one, to be looking a bit strange. One of them had become completely loose indeed, or maybe never was soldered at all. Crap. Actually all is well now. I laquered the back of the pcb to keep the most water and debris away from it and so far this does an appropriate job. Nevertheless I feel this is a bit a week point at my bike. Probably international communism will strike when bicycle repair man isn't available at all. Hubert

I had to replace this hose on my bike in 2004 (or was it 2005?), at Jaap's first meeting in NL. The job can be done with onboard tools. Of course the tank had to be removed, and the engine should be cold Hubert

A narrow band sensor knows only 1 AFR and that's exactly Lambda 1. Else from that it can only say rich or lean. That's the type of sensor usually used in motorbikes and cars of ours' age. It's useless for tuning purposes A wideband sensor instead can give exact values, like ARF 12.0, 13.5, 14.7 and so on. About dyno or not: I say not. Especially not if you talk about Dynoresearch and Powercommanders. They're using the dyno just as a brake for getting an ARF curve as basis for the PC correction map. Basically exactly the same a My15M, an Optimiser and some days fun onroad can do. If you're keen on getting smart with EFI then the My15M might give you what you want. Hubert

Who knows. A shop normaly gets from Mandello a certain guideline how much time a certain job should take.The question is whether they're working exactly after these guidelines and the next question is what they will take from you for this. If you trust in this shop and as long as they're normaly running their business to your satisfaction I would probably not go to another one. Maybe those might fix the leaking seal better and instead forget the oil filter next time. Hubert

Not at all! Just pull the gearbox and the clutch and you are there. Don't give too much on this shop (which should be able to keep your Guzzi onroad btw). Another thing is that it's rather unlikely for the oil to get into the clutch. It comes from outside the clutch and normaly gets thrown away by the rotating wheel. Then, if you believe that sipping oil would enter the clutch it could as well be a sipping camshaft cover. Already checked? Hubert

Next time check what sealing ring you've been sold. Chance 1: wrong material (8000 min-1 at such a large diameter results in remarkable circumferential speeds) Chance 2: wrong orientation of the ring (there should be an arrow or the like on it indicating the turning sense of the crankshaft) Chance 3: mounted without using the proper tools (no hammer for such a big ring) The last and possibly most expensive thing would be that the rings have already made a small groove into the end of the crankshaft. Try to position the next ring at a slightly different position (further in/out). Hubert

It's just a tire thing. Remove or rise the pressure a bit and it will be different if not gone. Change to new tires and it will be gone also. More here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shimmy The whole thing stands still, only the front wobbles - and as soon as you put your hands back on it comes to a rest again. That's shimmy, or wobble. It's harmless. EDIT: "should be harmless". Hubert

Great car. I owned one myself, '72 or so, Matchbox die cast Later I traded it for a nail red Porsche Le Mans type. The Porsche had new wheels already and was remarkably heavier. You could let him bounce a whole evening. Lift the back 3mm and let go. Hubert

Another hour lost.

Check also this: http://ftp.pwp.att.net/w/a/wayneorwig/ForSale.html There is more on his site. Hubert

A closed system could work just as long as the clutch would see exactly one temperature only. Besides that also the clutch is wearing, not only the brakes. Hubert

You could get Tuneboy or MyEcu for the same money. Tuneboy lets you alter the trim tables for altitude and engine temperature. In most cases that's all you need. Hubert

I haven't measured currents on my bike so far. Only voltage. Then I see at the poles around 12.1 with lights and Lambda controller/heater on, no pump, and around 12.8 with the engine at idle. 12.8 is probably not really recharging the battery. Anyway, as the voltage is higher as with the engine off I assume the alternator does an acceptable job already at idle rpms. Hubert

Please explain how you came to these figures. Hubert