luhbo

Try this link: http://www.powercommander.com/downloads/706/maps/m706-ALL.exe It's just a selfexpanding zip file. Hubert

You should not do that unless you have a special, in this case voltage regulated charger. A car charger will ruin the Spark or Hawker even more if not completely. Hubert

You guys are pressing Pete into a tough role. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U01xasUtlvw Hubert

Hold it for a moment. Is this really what is happening at the injector nozzles in my bike? The model Roy used does not apply I think. Not in this context. Make the same thing again and vary Inlet Pressure and Atmospheric Pressure. The pressure loss then should be a result of the resulting flow (velocity, length of nozzle, design of flow channel and valve needle etc). Not vice versa. Hubert

The same with mine. I can easily pull her up from 2.5 going out of tight bends, but round and above 5k is the area where the engine volunteers. Hubert

Subforums usually are counterproductive. Regardless whether you look at it under the aspect of "part of social network" things, lost information because posted in the wrong forum, or simply unnecessary internal rivalry. Take BFG's CARC problems. In fact they were nothing else but Guzzi problems. So why not posting them under one of the standard categories? It's the same with "Old Guzzi" topics. No other subforum please. Hubert

One pic once a month - this thread really had seen better times once. If you post pictures like this you should reconsider your signature. Hubert

Welcome. 3 days ago I heard from some bloke who's light came on right 10 minutes after he had changed his oil. Light on and el. pressure gauge down to zero. With all his forum background the only reason that came to his mind was "catastrophic oil pump failure". It took two days to convince him that a bad switch might be the fault more likely. In fact he only changed it after turning the engine with one valve cover removed had shown there was enough oil circulating for at least 1.5 engines. Nogbad called this "Guzzichondria". Hubert

What is a "Saturn"? You probably don't mean a "Saturno", do you? Hubert

These switches have a small ventilation hole on top of them. It's small, but as the internals of this part are moving, water, cleaning solvents etc. are sucked into it. Either go and search for the mentioned small black rubber condome or glue some sort of labyrinth on the housing. I found this rubber part and never had a problem again. This doesn't mean the switch won't become leaky one day. Don't know how to fix this. All I can say is: it makes a huge mess once it happens. Hubert

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I84A_oCc8Mk After two weeks you might get some good lap times - if they don't bring you out right after the first heat already

Like what rednecks talk? Hubert

That's not enough. They need 14.8V, no current limitation, and of course no trickle charging. At least if you want to treat them correctly. For the regulator: try putting it in an oven at 120°C for 1 hour. This might cure him. Hubert

Use a 5 pin relay. Easy fix and even failsafe. Hubert

I disagree on both. It's not the wiring, it's usually the switch and the poor fuse sockets which are causing the losses, and not the drop itself is the problem, it's the heat at those points which causes (or may cause) problems. Just touch a shining 20W bulb and feel how comfortable 20W can be Of course I agree that something should be done against those losses ;) Hubert

That's a standard modification since the early days of 6V car electricity. Guess why Hubert

First I'd get rid of the PC. You don't know what the previous owner did with it. Then, when the bike is properly synchronised/tuned and running well you can swap from standard to Mistral and vice versa without any problems or even dangers for the engine. The standard map usually is rich enough for everydays' street use - or, in other words, the main advantage of Mistrals is an adequate sound only. Hubert

Mistral pipes don't make a bike run rich. How should they? Hubert

You missed the point. You don't need CA's schematics as long as you have an owners manual. Hubert

THX. I had the pan down only once in 100.000km - didn't find anything interesting in it. I remove the manhole cover using the rear axle nut BTW. Hubert

Excellent, Roy, really! Thank you. One question: I never understood how this diode after Relais 4 should work? Personally I would place it somewhere else and especially the other way round. I forgot to mention: I'd draw the neutral light in the same de-energised state as the rest of the wiring. Maybe this would make the function clearer. Hubert

rsully, if you are worried about support and warranty and things like that you should probably go to your next well sorted and trained Guzzi dealer and let him flash the OEM ecu with an actual map and do a good maintenance and tuning job on your bike. Then you'll have a perfectly running V11 what's probably all you want. I suggest this not because MyEcu wouldn't have support and warranty - exactly the opposite is the case - I suggest this just because you're obviously a bit afraid of the whole thing. The MyEcu is not a competitor to the PC, in my eyes at least. I'm not sure whether a PC really has any competitor. The MyEcu is different. It can be your entrance to EFI, to Fuel Injection in general. If you're keen on something new, or maybe just feel offensed by this silvery blackbox which doesn't let you in regardless what you try, then you're a candidate for a My15M. This may sound a bit pathetic, ok, anyway my two My15M are on the road since the end of 2004, a MK1 for 4 years, now a MK2, for over 60.000km in total with no problems. They always brought me home. Very unpathetic. Both came as kits and were assembled with nothing more than a standard 20W iron, a pair of tweezers and a small side cutter. I still like them. Hubert

As long as it doesn't stall at 300 kPa it should work. You don't have specs for 3 bar? I found this: "For what its worth the fuel pump I/we use is a fuelmiser brand (made by BOSCH) part no.FPE 240 and they cost between 240-280 dollars specs are 70psi fuel pressure and 250 litres /hr if you are using that much fuel I want a go in your boat!" BTW, I'm still running the OEM pump on my KR - since over 100.000km. Hubert

Sorry, the puritans write it this way I guess : RT(beep)M Hubert

If All Else Fails (- RTFM)