luhbo

The electric petcock opens easily enough as soon as the pump begins spinning. I once had a broken one, too, and the bike run flawlessly with it. So don't expect too much of your new petcock. If the pump sounds weak and squeaky the problem definitely is a vapor bubble. The solution is easy: switch on and off the kill switch until the bubble has found its way back into the tank and the pump sounds normal again. For me it always works - even if it may take up to 10 on/off cycles. In case it does not (in the US some things work different) you could slightly and carefully loosen the hoseclamp at the pressure regulator in order to let the "gas" out. As fuel spitting over a hot engine may sound weird to the one or other I'd call this an IAEF-measurement. Hubert

Make sure you don't loose the knob after you have things together again. The trick is to find the right "Locktite", anything too strong and you won't get it out ever again. Saying this I suggest to leave the tachometer as it is. The water/vapor looks more as it really is. Some even say it's a typical thing. Hubert

I second this. Hubert

That's not the common fault. If this was true the bike wouldn't have made one single meter after the fault had manifested. You're probably one that hit the resistance trap. A TPS is not a potentiometer as you find them in radios or DIY spare boxes. If you try to measure the resistance of single components of a TPS you should know what you do. Stay to the signal, the output voltage, this is easier to handle and the how to is properly described even. Hubert

Don't check the resistance of a given TPS if you are in doubt whether it still works or not. It's a tricky thing. Stay to the signal. This can be done by every average noob. The signal rises from around zero to around 5V continuosly. If you still have one then take the old analog device for this purpose. It makes reading/interpreting the signal a bit easier. Measuring the resistance is possible, of course, but with 400 USD/Euros in the back you should avoid any missreadings. Hubert

That's the point. On first sight they look as if they were the OEMs. Hubert

Sad story (because it's a quite typical one), sad pictures. Interesting exhaust, though. Hubert

I experienced the same with my bike. Regulator got wet inside, voltage rised to 17 and more (the second bulb in one week made me susipicious), and the Odyssey pissed its tray. After baking up the regulator (120°C for one hour) things are fine again. Even the battery doesn't seem to be too hardly damaged (it's a long time problem probably ) Hubert

Is this some sort of Heli-Coil for valve guides?

Forget it. No chance. Your shop can take any guide they have in stock and adapt it, make it fit. Anything else is crap. Hubert

BILD said our hero was back in the pit. How can it be boring then? Hubert

You'll not regret it. The MyEcu really brings you inside. Hubert

Fine that your bike is fixed. Even better that it was just a cheap relais. Hope it will last. The weather thing is, just talking about it is no problem and of course always interesting. Problems might occure on some forum I don't want to mention here would I answer that we still have no spring, instead snow, cold and salt on the roads Just don't ask why this is as it is. Hubert

Really great stuff. Go and buy one. Rukka is so cute. Hubert

Sorry, no comment on this Hubert

Relais are fine probably, phase sensor is dead probably. Check the manual where to find and how to check it. It's often the case that they fail when hot. Cooled down they may work for another five minutes etc. Listen to the fuel pump when you don't have a spark. After turning the key you should here the fuel pump for one or two seconds. Then press the starter button, after that you should here the fuel pump again for another one or two seconds. If not it is the dead phase sensor. Hubert

You did an inspired job with your cans, so why don't you buy a My15M? Less money, better solution. Lambda sensitive for both sides, closed loop capable, self tuning, alter spark map, offset map left to right, bluetooth logging, analysis software etc. etc. Development ongoing, developer listening to you as well. Hubert

It's not because you made a misstake, Docc. Who has not done so so far. It could be a reference thread for internet use in common. Anyway, I don't think Mick would have spent real money based only on a quick forum question/answer. Nevertheless, the "Hey, PM me, I'm real" idea makes the difference Hubert

Charles, before you beginn welding things together you should check whether it's possible to make the original ends turnable. Weld the pipe directly to the bomb after you've cut off the front plate of the OEM can. This would allow you to mount the cans in different positions (like the Titaniums for instance). Hubert

The internals of the stock cans are weighing a ton or so. They're made of steel, you know Hubert

This is really cool! I like the idea. Why are these parts so heavy? Hubert

Looking at all the luggage you had packed on the V11 this morning, it seems as you have moved there as well now ^^ Hubert

I think we should make this the "Reference Thread" for this and in general for other forums as well Hubert

I'd try retarding or advancing this single cell at 5000 and a probably very small opening. I guess you wouldn't notice this "weak" cell under normal use. BTW, English/Scots, does "wee" come from "weak"? Hubert

No, no fiddling or testbench necessary. And a PCIII wouldn't help you anyway. Hubert