luhbo

Do you have the possibility to alter the spark map? When have you repacked your cans the last time? Do you think you could cheat them if you add some exhaust nozzles pointing to the left side or straight upwards? Hubert

1) I for myself define idle as a static running situation. Your background are big V8s, my background are old VW beetles and TWN split piston engines, so we both tend to define idle as well below 1000 But that's not relevant. The relevant word here is "static", no load. 2) I define the air bypass screws as an instrument to compensate the always existent flap and bore tolerances as well as other deviations caused by wear for instance. That's why the Guzzi manual says you should balance the flaps (adjusting linkage length) with bypass screws closed, at 2500 min-1 or higher. The idea behind it is that at higher revs and corresponding flap openings the influence of diameter, roundness and wear deviations is already very small. Besides that this is the region where the transition from idle to load and most of the "cruising" takes place. So for me the easiest way to adjust the flaps is: stick to the Guzzi manual. I bet in nearly 100% of all cases this will give usable results. If one wants more he should know what he does. The forum will not be able to give him usable advice in this case. Hubert

If the linkage play affects the balance (and the complete linkage itself is still in good and usable condition) then the synchronisation was badly done. I say this not as a fact, just as an advice. If one has problems with how his engine behaves, then always and only in driving situations when the flaps are off the stops. Not at idle and not at WOT. If one uses the idle stops during the balance procedure in order to get correct readings on his clocks or mercury sticks then he does himself not a favour. Hubert

There's no reason to say this. What you say is wrong. Turning the idle screws, or in other words, adjusting the idle revs to one's personal gusto, is exactly the same as pulling in the idle lever, just in the opposite direction. It has nothing to do with balance, synchronousity or TPS base settings. It may be not a good idea to have the idle set to too low revs, but again, this is a different thing than just turning the stop screws out or in. Hubert

Exactly. Don't splice in anything, don't check here and there this or that. You say it's running smoothly. In this case the only thing to check regularly is fuel and tire pressure. Maybe also the oil level, but then it's enough. Anyway, turning out the right idle stop screw a little (after you've finally found and recognised it) is nothing you need to document in every detail. Hubert

I once had them mounted, too. Indeed they're obviously sounding quite dark and mellow - for those standing besides the bike. But ask your neighbours - they'll tell you that they hear them in their hummin' cupboards They were great fun, really. The performance at higher revs was very much better as with the OEM cans. You can see mine on my actual avatar. Hubert

At least two reasons come to my mind and I think I'm not too far off with them. My model is that as soon as you open the throttle the pressure inside the manifold rises and a lot of the former vaporised fuel recondensates and falls out of the air stream (you can watch this effect nicely on open carbs btw). Second reason, or maybe the same, these droplets are remarkably heavier as the air around them. So the accelerated, sober air just leaves them behind. Countermeasure against the resulting hickups is a decent pump emulation. I tried it out with the MyEcu, running a firmware with the emulation set to zero. It works, but the engine behaves critical when cold especially, and even warmed up it looses a lot of crispness. Cliff helped me with such a version after I "complained" about similar "fat" spots when I opened the throttle. Hubert

I have the sags set, spring checked, pi pa po, nevertheless the standard Marzocchi is a slow thing. It works satisfying above 15°C minimum only. Better internals were a good option in my eyes too. Hubert

My reply was too short to give correct readings, I'm afraid What I wanted to adress with "false readings" were false readings as a result of where the probe is located and also false readings as a result of valve overlap in combination with low revs and wide throttle. These ARF readings furthermore are a result of two different probes. The one built in, a cheap switching probe working in closed loop and located somewhere far behind the combustion chambers, and the one connected to the dyno, located somewhere in the open muffler, obviously wide band and a lot quicker in response. Add the small time you need for one sweep going from 2000 min-1 to redline and ARF numbers from a dyno are loosing a lot of their charm/importance. At least that's how it works for me. At second sight the ARF curve doesn't look too weird. I think I can recognise some sort of pump emulation when you open the throttle, then the internal O2 probe kicks in and brings ARF back over 14, waves a bit around this official target, then finaly quits its service above 140, letting fall the ARF into a very rich condition. It seems that at low revs leaner gives more power (of course, same fuel but more air). Hubert

I'd go even further and reply "No, at full throttle the ARF readings are crap...", the more as the bike obviously behaves quite satisfying. Hubert

Must have something to do with where you live.

In Germany for several years the importer suggested Castrol RS only. Full synthetic and really expensive. I think to remember it was 10W-60. At these days they claimed it was the only oil good enough for a LM engine. Don't use a special motorcycle oil. Hubert

So, what if I say some Americans have nervs ... Hubert

See through is ok. That's the point of view thingie. When you stand besides the bike, not on on your knees, you don't look through, instead you have to look at, as I think, less attractive parts and details of the V11 basis. Hubert

Where have these interesting pink pictures gone? Those taken at Agostini? The interesting thing was, in my eyes, that from every other angle but those the official pictures were taken from, the kit looks somehow incomplete. Tank and fairing cut too short, no airbox to hide the worst parts of the frame and so on. That's what I'd do first: find someone to make me some really big airbox to close the hole in the center of the bike. I think that makes the biggest difference between the two bikes shown above. Hubert

Italian invention? Hubert

Why don't you just sit on the bike, bow down, get the dipstick out, try to read it, get it in again and you're done? Hubert

A pic like that you're getting seldom enough Hubert

If you'd look more carefully at your pix you wouldn't have copied two of Ralph's

You have bobhomes, too? Hubert

Dave, what batteries are used in V11s? You can have them 2 years and more on the shelf without them loosing much charge. Hubert

Now when you say that... I've never noticed it before Besides that, the german forum has one bloke who was not too shy to give a long report how lovely it was in the alps last summer with mummy up on the highest and nicest passes - with his huge new motorhome. This being a very friendly forum he got friendly comments only, of course. Hubert

You're welcome

The rubber caps/valves are below the plastic cover below the words "Odyssey - the extreme battery". Hubert

Sounds funny if you read it in this form. In fact it can be fun, of course. Quite often there are bikes behind the cans, pressing on them at least the same way as the cars try to press on you. Oh, and white flashing lights are not the police or rescue cars, btw. Their lights are blue, all the same as your's. There's not much real Autobahn left nowadays. Most of it is limited to 120 km/h. Add the dutch campers and you're not really save, but slow at least. Hubert