luhbo

Some hints about what had probably happend in this night can be found in the Hawker manual. If water has come out, by what reason ever, the Hawker is seriously damaged. Hubert

After all what I know the batteries found in Guzzis are of the air-acid type. Inside acid, outside air only. If you have an acid-acid one then it's the wrong type and should be replaced. The more common sealed acid-air units usually don't turn rain into something that bites. Hubert

They are vented, of course. It's described in the manual. The valves are simple rubber caps. If you can't find a leak, wash and dry battery and tray and put it back for observation. If you will find fluids again after some time make a warranty claim. If you can't see the leak, they might also be unable to find one. Then the valve mechanism is faulty and it's a warranty thing. I'd try it. In Germany/Europe we have a 2 year warranty, so after 1 1/2 years time is definitely running. BTW: I ended last season with a hands up regulator. I noticed it only after the second bulb in a row gave up early. I checked the voltage and found it going up top 18V. The interesting thing in this regard is that my 2 year old Odyssey still is dry outside. Inside hopefully not Hubert

Monday morning snow at -5° Wednesday morning sun at -25°. Hopefully April it will be V11 land again Hubert

A streetlegal 'Mistraled' LM redlines without problems. Remove the DB eaters and pimp the fairing a bit and it will still just redline. So without changing the rear drive do not expect too much. Hubert

As I understand this mechanism, the material itself is swelling. The molecular chains of the plastic are affected by the additives of the gas you have to use. If this process really should be reversible as Dave writes, then you could hope, try it out and then maybe insulate the inside with some special alcohol resistive coating. It's the same effect like oil greasing plastic bushings. They swell and render unusable. Hubert

Go for MyEcu. You'll like it. Good quality, nice price, perfectly working. I'm running one since 2005, never had a problem. Hubert

That's it. And the sand gets between the seat and your rain suit and ruins preferably the seat of course. Or between the luggage and the seatcover. That's my finding. It's not that we have the smallest plates on earth, btw. Anyway, the original look is also hard to bear, too hard I say. Hubert

Why do you buy there? There is still this great Italian shop, with another owner now, but probably still fast, reliable and not too pricey. The biggest advantage is: they do not sell products with an -Z order number. Hubert

Hey, you had your bikes at the Pros, you wouldn't want them to participate or even contribute here, would you? On the other hand: who knows how many pros leach here and then do to the bikes what they've found Hubert

Hydro followers are installed to run the valvetrain "lashless". That's the reason why they are working so quietly, and that's the reason why a very good lubrication between lobes and followers is a must. The oil enters the followers lateraly, by the way. I assume that the Hydro engines used a special camshaft. Is that true? Hubert

You ought to fill the file with chalk or wood before you start filing. And then keep it in contact to the surface also while you pull it back. This also helps to keep the swarf out. Hubert

If that's the case I could borrow you a V11 camshaft, a strip of 4 mm on each lobe still unworn. Interested? -> PM Hubert

Great. You're refering to this one, aren't you? What does he say? Get things right? That's beyond discussion. Getting things right is ok. The question is: what does it cost and what would be the tradeoffs. Hubert

Some tenths of a mm, that's a lot. Let's say 3/10 or 4/10, that's a huge bit of material. You probably thought of 2 or 3/100 of a mm. The other thing is: what will he take for guiding his grinding machine? The lobe itself? And: usually a modern lobe profile means less wear. Hotter or not. It seems as if the V11 cam is a very good one actually. Maybe better than the older aftermarket versions even. Hubert

That's a lot and probably not a good exercise. Before you let him copy the faults from one lobe to the next: have you thought about putting another profile onto the lobes? Maybe you could get a new, unused V11 cam or one of Scola for some days (of course not from Scola himself) so your grinder could copy it on your camshaft. That's what the Gurus do for 250 or 300 Euros. You've to send them your old camshaft, they give 80 Euros to their associated shop and then send back to you a regrinded one. Hubert

Based on what? Experience? Gossip? Academic studies? Come over with some numbers. How much out of balance would the system become if the pushrod was 1mm too short or too long? You have milled your heads down. How did you address the mentioned problem? Did you shorten the pushrods? Hubert

Could be things become clearer for all if you'd provide some sort of calculation, or estimation at least, how much offset would be caused by the use of a regrinded camshaft in combination with unadjusted pushrods. Hubert

Watch this: Megaton on 1000 SP These look very similar to yours. He calls them "Megaton"s. Hubert

Funny. The FBF looks as if it was at least 50gr heavier. I assume that the pins are more or less the same. Hubert

You can provide him CAD data? If not, a good rasp would be a quicker and much less costly solution. As long as you don't break a fin, of course. Hubert

I'd not replace them. Just from sight they are still perfect, and as Greg already mentioned, even "worn" like the ones of Raz they can still work well for a long time. On the other hand, they are not very expensive, so if you are a person a bit nervous ... You should definitely put those FBF aluminium lumps on a scale before you send them back. The scale probably needs not to be very accurate. Hubert

How long is -22.7C?

Taking this picture exactly against this backround is a clever idea. The reflection lines give a good impression of the radius. Hubert

.10 is a lot of wood as I would call it talking about it I took pictures of two old ones, out of the scrap box (they're coming from a totaly worn LM1 engine): Measuring the gaps would mean a major task even for a professional I guess. Anyway, something like a convex or even biconvex shape seems recognisable. Here are two others, possibly showing the ring where the ruler in the above pictures was laying on: On second sight it could as well be that the ruler lay upon the least unworn areas. In the center material is missing, and at the peripheral regions material is lost. Then, how could they've been looking once when they were new? Hubert