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Come on, Emry, language barrier. That's a good one Now, what's with this 33° + 6° equals (?) 39° theory? Have you googled after it or maybe even looked into wiki posts? This might help, you know ;)GuzziMoto had posted the same: it makes no difference to rake and given trail if you add what they call yoke angle. It's just that the forks looks even flater. What else did I write? And if we come back to Greg's tales: Guzzi kept the rake constant (no change to the frames) and they kept the wheelbase constant. But they, as gossip claims, tilted the forks? Why that? This would make no sense, only problems and cost a lot of extra money what they never had. Guzzi is not Yamaha nor is it H-D which would spend money for such cosmetical gimmicks. That's why I say he's made the whole thing up. Hubert

Everybody here is allowed to write what comes to his mind, so you're welcome. Nevertheless the Yamaha homepage, it's Yamaha USA btw., is wrong. 33° rake and 6° yoke don't make 39° rake. It might look as if it was that flat, but active still are only 33°. Not a good source this one. It's meant for a different clientel anyway. Edit: besides that, it seems not to be the very common thing when they underline it so explicitely. Hubert

It's very hard, if not , under commercial aspects, impossible, to do this rake thing just because you can't keep the vertical distance between upper and lower clamps constant or as designed. Tolerances and such things you know. It's no problem as long as you have the 3 boreholes parallel to each other. If you have them tilted you've lost. There you need the shims, between the clamps, not in the top view like RH's sketch. If you want to keep your assy line running this would mean Harakiri. For nothing. It brings no effect besides a slightly variing trail under different load conditions (wheelbase kept constant, of course). More trail makes a bike more prone to wobbling. You've probably watched wobbling shopping trolly wheels or maybe also the uncontrolled front wheel of a vintage sports plane. Good examples of wobble caused by trail. Remember that with a longer trail you also have bigger reaction forces which may make a steering damper indispensable because of the risk of an overshooting stabilisation (Greg's Death Wobble). Massive wheels, fenders, rifle holders, rollers and bullshit more like this at the front fork might multiply this risk. Hubert

Changing spring preload doesn't change spring hardness (-rate). Only so much here about that. Hubert

No guys, that makes a triangle. You must add the missing upper part in your imagination of course. Do you get the picture? Ok, hold it then, and now think of all the tolerances that will stack up in this assembly. Bearing seats, height of their contact surfaces above or below the reference surfaces of the fork tube bores, distance of bearing seats in the frame, the bore diameters etc. etc. Something like that will not work at an (semi- ) industrial assembly line. You can do something like that if you build bikes one by one and one per week, no problem, but you'd need shims to get the tolerances out and to get things straight. Cutting off the steering head and weld it back correctly would take less time and cost less money. And G/M, like you wrote already, for what reason if they keep the wheelbase constant? The raked clamps thing is nonsense made up by Greg. Hopefully he at least knows why he does such things. Hubert

Of course! What else?!? Hubert

Again no suitable way to adjust the riding height? Hubert

What does that mean "bored off-axis"? In a triangle with fixed lengths you can't have just one leg differently. So shimms below the upper tripple clamp are a must if you bore them "off-axis". Just make a quick sketch on top of your workbench, it's not that difficult. Hubert

The whole thread is nonsense. Time to close it. The only interesting thing in it are Ratch'es pix and maybe its Haikus. How shall whatever raked triple clamps work at a production line like that? It's geometrically just impossible. They don't find the time to grease the bearings or to choose the right rear axle spacers. How should they find the time and interest to measure each framehead, choose the right amount of shims matching both clamps and frame and then carefully assemble all this? Do these shims show up in any parts catalog? Does anybody believe Guzzi would have been willing to spend the extra money for rather expensive special bored clamps? The more as a different frame would have cost nothing compared to all this silly scenario? That's just science fiction, bad science fiction. Only Greg Field can make up such boring nonsense. Yes, and then stamp feets Hubert

I could touch one last weekend: This is what people are looking at: And don't forget: for what this MGS costs you could get at least 4 of those beauties: Hubert

With this spring sprung you normaly don't downshift even. No spring - no shifting. Have you carefully checked the leverage? And have you disconnected the battery? Such bolts loosen easier after you've given them a single, decided head treatment (bouncing) using a hammer and some sort of round bar. And for the wisdom of the forum: swapping relais also might help... Hubert

You've checked the balancing/synchronisation? Just for having it done. It shouldn't make the bike unrideable anyway. Next thing: swap plugs, right to left and v/v. Do the symptoms swap also? Visit your next mechanic, car shop will do. Let them check the compression (cold engine) and let them check the ignition with an oscilloscope (they clamp the pickups to the ignition cables). And let the PC off the bike, just to have one unknown less. Hubert

You're kidding, aint you? Tell me you're just kidding or at least trying to test this forum, something like that. Hubert

Yes, it was not this one But it looked similar. He did no changes at all, stock bike, stock map, straight ARF line. Hubert

Thanks for the link. I've been looking for his name since some time now. He developed an interesting frame concept Hubert

Don't want to put down the MGS, but have you seen the LM-II for 3.5 on the same site? That's tempting! Put a V11 engine in and you're through. Hubert

The last tyre test in MOTORRAD put the Roadsmart even in front of the Michelins. Only when wet the Pilot Road was slightly better. Nevertheless I bought a 160 Pilot Road 2CT rear and a Pilot Sport 2CT for front. Nice combo, indeed. Gives this funny nailed on rails feeling. Before that I had the Diablo Stradas several times, but they have a tendency to act quite strange towards the end of their life span. Which is not very long on top of that. And they're replaced by the Angel ST anyway.

Yes, you. I was just too lazy to scroll up and look who had started this thread. But I'm afraid you've got me slightly wrong. Sorry for not having formulated clearer my above posting. I was just saying that your problem as described in your first post and this ARF curve posted by Ernst probably have not very much to do with each other. He's taken this curve at WOT, your problem normaly becomes evident at small opening angles. And if this curve is correct (what I doubt) then it is from an early V11, your bike surely has uploaded something completely different. Besides that: I'm running a My15M in my KR to my great and daily delight , but even this fine tool can do nothing against a crapy running engine if the peripherals are out of tune - cracked rubbers, worn TPS, misbalanced T/Bodies, incorrect valve settings, things like that. @GuzziMoto: You're right when you say a PC is not necessary but it helps. In my eyes it's nevertheless a rather crude tool and as such not an elegant solution. More of the type "If something breaks then make it thicker, it's obviously not heavy enough". Hubert PS: Some weeks ago someone posted a nearly perfect ARF curve also taken from a stock V11. Anyone remembering in which thread this was?

The reason is, that this info is just plain nonsense. Ernst is posting an ARF curve recorded on a dyno at WOT. The other guy is complaining about misses under cruising conditions, throttle nearly closed. Do you really believe these two things have to do with each other? Going WOT below 3000 and then complain about pinging Hubert

SD. I took the 70mm version, because my bike needs only 65mm. The next length they sell is 120. Check their shop using "Lenkungsdämpfer". This shop is piss, by the way, "LSL" for instance will give you 0 results. The distance at the blue arrow is longer, so you might have to modifiy the lever length at the orange arrow. Hubert

In a car the wrong side on this island is fun, really no big thing to me. The roundabouts come even easier to me as they do here at home. But I have to admit, thinking of it on a motorcycle is rather scaring me. It must be totaly different. You're so trained how to do a right or left bend, I don't know how fast you could switch these mechanisms. Jaap, did you find it difficult or scary? Hubert

Rea apologized and said it was his fault, albeit Haga being on a rather strange line. In reply Haga said something like "Shite, he's young and that's racing" (MOTORRAD). Cool guys. Haga and Spies seem to be very close friends btw. Hubert

Valves and throttlebody synchronisation I'd guess. Maybe leaking rubber connectors between T/B and heads as well. Or is it just a somewhere loose exhaust system? And of course all the other possible hints as well, means bad relais, missing PCIII and naturally the wrong head temp sensor Not to forget the worn cam chain. Hubert

THX for your quick input. I was explicitely asking for the type of it because most retailers sell them only described as "Honda VFR" or whatever Jap bike people want to pimp. No hint about the stroke in these cases. In the meantime I've found a shop that's selling LSLs for 135,- Euros, so my question from above has become a bit pointless. Sorry. I measured my Bitubo and found the necessary stroke being something around 65 mm. Before I tried to refill it, with no real success alas. It's not too difficult to open, the tricky thing is to find the correct amount of oil to be put in. A drop to much and it becomes sticky, one too less and it's burpy again. In my eyes it really makes no sense to do this if you don't have the possibility to refill the nitro cushion. As soon as this unit is anything less but perfectly smooth your cornering is spoiled. That's my experience. In this case you better go without these 400gr of now silly balast only. THX, Hubert

Docc, do you remember for what bike your stabiliser was meant? I'm thinking of buying one, but measuring it over the net is a bit problematic They can't be as bad as what they're cheap. My Bitubo gave up after 90.000 km, so I cannot say the Bitubo is a shity thing, btw. Hubert