luhbo

Thanks a lot. This one was new to me. The interesting thing is that they describe in detail how the schematics should be designed. Interesting also as it appears that white Veglias seem to have different internals. I always thought they sell only one version. Hubert

Ok, we had this one and a half year ago already: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...017&hl=tach On the picture you can see (if you can get your eyes off from those beautiful ones of the rideress) a SL494 chip from GPS. First thing is: it's a 14 pin chip. All data available is refering to 16 pin chips. Second thing is: try to google for GPS nowadays Some of you mention just to take this original chip out and put any other F2P (edit: F2V of course, sorry) converter in instead. Well, besides the fact that I never thought electronics could be that easy, should I further follow this bright and easy road and just cut off pins 8 and 9 to make these chips hole compatible? Hubert

Folks, could it be that I have missed some important things of how the MyECU works? Could be, because I'm only 99.5% satisfied with it Really, I always thought that with starting is dealt somewhere else in the map file, not in the InjDur matrix. I thought SparkAdvance while starting is this: ------------------- # TDCWhileCranking=1 will fire the spark at TDC # TDCWhileCranking=0 will fire with advance from the map MyECU Cfg TDCWhileCranking=1 ------------------- If so, you should set the spark advance back to 10 or even 12 or 15 degrees in the 500 column. It helps to stabilise idle. And all that for free! Ain't that a thing, ha? Hubert And of course there are separate fields for cranking and start enrichement as well. Leave the first row alone, it has nothing to do with starting. At least I like to think of it this way, and I'm one of the happy owners.

A good mouthfull, honey Could you post it again then? But before that you'd like to count the legs of what you're talking off. Hubert

Are all other components ok? Especially the TPS? The temperature sensors? The more as you had similar problems while using the OEM unit if I've got you right. I mean, if you had to almost double the puls widths then this fact points to something different. BTW, in this case at least Raz should have experienced the same, shouldn't he? I for instance found Cliff's maps a bit on the rich side to be honest (different probe etc.) Talking about cans and filters: I once switched from "Look Through" Mistral race cans to the quite restrictive catalysed Quat-D Ex-Box. That was a huge difference in performance and driveability. My word on it! While at WOT the Mistrals demanded whatever fuel the nozzles could deliver, reving and bawling aggressivly into the limiter (in 5th at least ^^) , the Quat-D felt as if above 6000 you're running straight into a rubber wall. On the other hand the punch a Quat-D delivers between 3500 and 5500 is more than impressive compared to that of an open exhaust. So, huge differences on the road, how much of them are mirrored in the maps: Not more than +- 10% for the most affected cells. Practically this means I could switch the maps and run them open loop without any really remarkable difference in the behaviour of the bike. Midrange a bit lean, WOT a bit rich. What I want to say with all this is: the influence of pipes and swiss chees boxes on the maps is generally hugely overestimated! If you claim that your bike is unrideable with a different map from a so similar bike, than there are other things that make them uncomparable. Could be TPS (still ok?), TPS setting, sensors or generall approach to such things (with all respect for the last words). And hey, others just use whatever pipes they like together with the unmodded Marelli ecu and are very satisfied. Hubert

Hi Arbi, great to find an article like that from time to time Could you ever successfully repair the electronic part of a Veglia? The mechanic things are doable, resolder wires and things, but what if something on the pcb went nuts? I have two of those units. The coil shows a certain resistance, measured at the top of the springs and applying a small voltage makes the coil perfectly moving. Alas, somehow the ecu signal is ignored. The only more complex part on the pcb is a (probably) custom chip of which absolutely no information seems to exist. So, is this the type that makes 50% of the parts that are unrepairable or could you give a hint how to properly deal with those possibly dead pcbs. Hubert

Ok. That's a solid statement. I think it would be a fair thing to go a bit more into detail. What had to get changed to get you at least running? Being able to gain experience since the end of 2005 I can hardly believe what you say, Emry. The more as others are happily running the "OEM" (Cliff) map without ever having connected the MyEcu to a O2 probe. I'm sure you've done a comparison so that you know what you're talking of. Please let us know what was wrong. Hubert PS: reading your posting again it seems you had a problem to start the engine, hadn't you?

Hey, that's an easy one. I have no clue how it could be coded, but I'm quite sure this could be done with less than 100 lines of code. This is the one and only hurting point in my life where I think I've done something wrong - I had never learned C and I always was bored when it came to, even basic, electronics. The idea is very clear: clamp an ATMEGA to the tach signal, compare this to a fixed value and dial in some hysteresis using the TPS signal for instance. Above rpm-X flap pulls open, below X-x flap falls back, same when TPS falls to zero. Oh, if I ever could .... BTW, how much are the shown tachs? Has someone a good link to them? Hubert

Oh, I really like it. A very hooligan. Hubert

Ivan, take your time and take it easy. If you apply for help we should find a common agenda and look together what steps in what order showed what effect. The MyEcu stuff works pretty well as so often mentioned already, at least by me, but if you have all possibilities to change everything things can end up pretty weird as well. It's a complex thing. I suggested to try the unit in open loop first. The reason is, I wouldn't trust the LC1, I wouldn't trust the location of the probe and also it's not said that the exhaust is as tight as it should be. Also, as Raz has mentioned, an eventual correction factor implied by either an unsuitable map-cell or an unreliable O2 signal can make things even more confusing. Please try out the above step and report how things went. Before that you should have adjusted the TPS according to the book, also the valves, and a solid synchronisation would be helpfull as well. Then take the map that was sent to you by Cliff and don't alter anything besides the TPS offset. This map will work. Someone else already had it on his bike, if not Cliff himself, and your bike is exactly the same. By the way, I'm sure I could download it to my V11 and also had a well usable bike (as long as the TPS characteristics are the same). I can understand your feelings. When I got mine I thought everything was possible now, having insight and software and so. Then I had to learn that changing less is often more. What I've learned years before that was the funny fact that for fueling the same applies: less is more. One can easily make the fault to overly enrich the mixture where staying on the leaner side would have shown better effects. Hubert

They make money with it, yes, but I doubt it is much. Policemen and all the necessary equipement costs, too. Actually we don't have too much Autobahn left unrestricted. The point is: "Free Drive For Free People" still is valid, nevertheless how many speed limits the people have to respect. It's just the feeling that there is some free space, some wilderness left for them. Until today this is really a holy thing: don't touch the Autobahnen! Unfortunately it seems that we can't keep things like that very much longer. Early in the 30ies the Nazis sacked all speed limits, but could keep this for some years only. Too many deads and losses for economy and army. Right after the war the reinstallation of speed limits in 38 or so was the first Nazi law remembered by the new government and as such had to be cancelled at once! Just to show what great importance this topic always had here, and how irrational important things often are dealt by politicians. Hubert

I can recommend it. But he should keep in mind: it's just for fun, not a must. I don't think it will make the bike any faster or more reliable (has anyone ever heard of a dead original 15M? ). BTW, I totally rely on my My15M, having no spare Marelli unit left. The My15M is not on my list of parts that would eventually leave me stranded somewhere. Hubert

No, it's not. Open the zip file, open e.g. avviamento.txt (means starting up) and have a look at the first 20 lines or so in case you are interested in what the ecu does. Hubert

Such things could be solved, I guess. BTW, someone interested in a German gun debate? How about talking about speed limits and their social impacts? Hubert

Yes, exactly. It seemed to become some sort of experiment. A very interesting experiment with rather interesting content, nice ideas and well overthought statements. Such experiments shouldn't be ended by just smashing the petri dishes. This was what made me complain. The more as the realy boring part of this forum is not the one or other gun debate. Mostly it's the technical section where threads should be closed if not even erased right after the question was put (no smiley here). BTW, a moderator has also the possibility to edit posts of intolerable or unwanted content. Maybe with "erased - see forum rule xy" or similar. How about that? Hubert

I'll have a look at this log file. That's some great information. Actually you've been the first here and elsewhere who was able to provide some information of what the OEM units do. Thanks for that. Hubert

Yes, take it easy and you'll get the fun you've expected. For starting the engine try out the following values: ---------------------------- # Prime gives the fuel injection time in ms while cranking #Temp C -30 -20 -10 0 10 20 25 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100 110 125 Prime 50 40 30 30 25 20 20 12 7 5 5 5 # Crank is the % boost of the map injection times right after start # this boost decays to 0 over about 20s #Temp C -30 -20 -10 0 10 20 25 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100 110 125 Crank 80 70 50 40 30 23 20 15 10 2 0 0 0 0 0 0 ----------------------------------------------------- These lines say what happens while the engine cranks. No further relation to other values in the map. Every time the piston aspirates the ECU gives a 20 ms shot of fuel (at 20 or 25°C), regardless how much throttle you have (use WOT for leaning it out if you think the engine has eventually drowned). At -30°C it would be 50 ms - you see you've got the perfect ECU for Rimini, your average temperature range is covered For me these values work nearly perfect. Just "nearly perfect" only because the OEM ECU is unbeatable when it comes to starting. If you have idle problems then try the following values as bottom line (you are sure that everything else is ok? Valve clearance, rubber sleeves, spark plugs ...) : --------------------- InjDur 00 2672 2848 2512 1936 1616 1104 600 300 200 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 ---------------------- If you have the voltage correction table set to zero you have to add 1000 to each value. Maybe that you need higher or even lower values, just do not make the fault to dial in to much difference between cell 1, 2 and 3. Remember, starting is triggered elsewhere, so there is no need to overly enrich cell 1. This would only drown the engine as soon as it falls below 1000 rpm by some reason. Idle is at 1000, now use the optimiser to achieve a good ARF for this cell and then copy this InjDur-value to the first and third cell and make them a bit leaner to stabilise idle. It's that easy. These lines are probably all you should alter in Cliff's map to achieve a usably running bike. Then adjust the map via Autotune to your needs, but only in small steps. If you actually have it 20 or more percent richer now than there is a good chance that the map has become inconsistent. HTH, Hubert

I'd prefer European if you prefer such modern classifications. And yes, they prefered to stay. What I know is that they assimilated with every new tribe coming over them, Germans, Romans, Normans, Saxons, no problem for them. Hubert

At least as interesting as the rest of the words written in the mentioned thread I found these lines: " ...but as a real American I do understand and appreciate the strong element of “wilderness” here that many of my fellow citizens value... " also from OBND. It's so interesting because here, where I live, we actually have some very interesting discussions and broadcast features because of "90 Years Revolution in Bavaria - Kurt Eisner and the 'Freistaat Bayern' " There were some good points about Anarchy as an idea of freedom and very basic democracy in this concern. The above mentioned lines are saying quite the same thing in my eyes. For me this is another point why a forum like this is essential. Just like Baldini and Martin have already mentioned. Thanks, I'm feeling well hosted here (at least from time to time ) Hubert

I'm verry sorry that Paul closed the election topic in such an offending way. For me the choosen argumentation shows a serious lack of political or even democratic selfconsciousness. Topics should be closed because of content of bad taste or offending words or style. I don't bow to the privileges of a moderator. He closed the topic, so it's closed, but I don't like to respect this. There was no reason given for this action besides that Paul obviously didn't like the topic. Hubert

Hi Kadavere, I'm one of those having only pure fun with the MyEcu. I had the My15M Mk1 for 3 years or so, 2008 I finally switched to the Mk2 - also a smooth and flawlessy running unit. I had problems sometimes, but every single time the fault was on my side. Faults can be made in the map (an "O"utch instead of an "0"-Zero e.g. - one of my favorites ), on the PCB (not looking good enough on the schematics when you assemble it) or in the flash or programming process. Once you have these things sorted the easy part begins. Your map shows this: RPM 500 1000 1322 1520 1750 2011 2314 2663 3061 3521 4045 4658 5357 6058 6756 7470 Flags 14 (O0) (O0) (O1) (O1) (O1) (O1) (O1) (O1) (O1) (O1) (O1) (O1) (O1) (O1) (O1) (O1) Flags 13 (O0) (O0) (O1) (O1) (O1) (O1) (O1) (O1) (O1) (O1) (O1) and this: MyECU Cfg O2=0.00V,0.00V,0.00V,0.00V,0.00V,0.00V,0.00V,0.00V, MyECU Cfg 2ndO2Sensor=no This could mean you're running the unit in a somewhat open loop. To avoid questions like that write a value into the second and the following cells. Lambda 0.9 will perfectly do. Don't ask how exactly the ECU interprets every single cell of the map, you won't get too much answers The better strategy is to avoid unnecessary questions. If this will not give you better results then download the maps exactly as Cliff had sent them to you and run the MyEcu in "defined" Open Loop mode (using the switch). Don't forget to dial in the correct TPS offset. If this won't work then you have a problem somewhere else. Find it before you proceed. Remember that the +5V at the Optimiser are coming from the MyEcu. I don't think you should hook to much other devices to it. This might negatively affect the CPU (just an idea). BTW, I've heard from some people of having severe problems with the LC1 units. i don't have one myself, so it's pure gossip, but I'd give the open loop idea a try because of that. Also make sure that you have set the TPS according to what the book says (and that you have dialed in the coresponding TPS-offset in the map). Still no success? Then try the diametrically approach: download the original map from Cliff again and set your TPS to reach the offset value which Cliff had sent you with his map. Again try it open and closed loop. Tonight I will post the values for starting up your engine. I don't have them at hand now. Starting actually is a very easy part of the game, you just need to have the proper values in the map. Hubert

Get down on your knees and look from below at the mechanism. You'll probably see at once where adjustments can or should be done. Anyway, this idle lever doesn't affect cold start enrichement, so it's neither the problem nor the solution. Don't buy a PC, makes no sense here. Hubert

That's probably right as long as it sits perfectly (within allowed tolerances) perpendicular over the axis of the wheel. And also the software must be stable enough to work properly with signals of different or maybe even variing strength. It's a bit of guessing, sure, but nobody so far ever mentioned this part. I know from cars that it's very often the cause of problems and break downs. TUV never was a problem. "Wer viel fraecht, ged viel irr" as some say. And not only in a forum. Hubert

I'm not intending the Guzzi staff is a bunch of thieves. It's just a fact that there are nice parts floating around and if you kinda like this form of business they might come down at your place and some money will float off from your pockets to someone else's instead, that's it. Hubert

Yes, who knows what. The manual at least says the phasesensor has to be adjusted when it's getting mounted, some even say it should be cleaned from time to time. The manual even shows a picture for that. Don't ask me how it works with this sensor, my KR doesn't ping, regardless what colour the fuel has that I get for it. So I had no need to check this part of the signal chain so far. Hubert