luhbo

Yes, "Rest In Pieces", that's only natural after most of them have become just too big over the years. Hubert Or was it "Resold in Pieces"?

Totally! How much risk would be induced by dealing with your avatar, eh? Hubert

So I have mine. One is for ventilation, the other one shall keep the area around the tank lock dry. If this one is blocked all the water collected around the lock will immediately poor into the tank as soon as you open it for refueling. It's a good mouthfull. I experienced this once but it caused no complications at all. Let me mention that we're obviously talking about different bikes. Mine, a KR/2000, doesn't have any insulation below the tank anyway. Hubert

These pistons would be best in combination with dual ignition. Then you could probably see gains also at higher revs, reduce the risk of pinging and use the average premium fuel. While you have the heads off, think about this twin-plug conversion. If you still have some money left, then a My15M with adjustable spark advance would make things perfect. Hubert

Both of them could suit you well. You only had to accept the one you choose. Anyway, good luck Hubert

To connect the tank ventilation to the pressure adjuster is an interesting idea This would lead to the ultimate tank suction, I guess, but not necessarily to symptoms you'd mentioned above, with fried relais and such things. With "two rubber nozzles" I meant those two inlet nozzles at the very front end of the airbox. Some call them "Lids"? They're bigger than those nipples you've mentioned, although some think they're the same Hubert

Guys, I hope you'll get him. After you're through with him, have his testicles shared or nailed down or whatever, please, I urgently need a tach, should be a white Veglia. So if this poor fellow should have some parts with him he wouldn't need any longer then, would you think of me and save me the tach? Thx in advance, Hubert

Fuses generally behave so lazy. Talking about your sooty plugs: black or oily does not always mean rich (hold on!, Dave, hold on!), it could be as well just a sign of bad or insufficient combustion, caused by electrical problems. Why don't you check the harness for damaged insulations? And remember the two small holes provided by the two original rubber nozzles. That's all the air this engine needs, and I can't imagine that the loose insulation strips had choked the engine more than these nozzles do. It would surprise me if the symptoms would be less now. Have you tested it already? Hubert

S.p.a. => Aktiengesellschaft => AG (Two words) S.r.l. => Gesellschaft mit beschraenkter Haftung => G.m.b.H. just in case you'd have to deal with "Made in Germany" Hubert

5 Speed box is a fault. It's not possible to transplant the old gearbox into a V11 frame. BTW, I'm used to clip-ons since I first sat on a Guzzi in the early eighties, and I still find them the best and most comfortable solution - for hours of easy Guzzi driving through the mountains or hours of German highway bulleting, laying over the tankbag and having only one hand at the grips, just to keep the throttle open, wide open! Buy the bike that talkes to you, the one of which you like the color or even just the name. Buy the bike you want. When I read all this talk about bars high or low or bent or not, I somehow think you've found your wifes by comparing wedding offers in the local newspapers. Hubert

The Quat-D Ex Box gives a very unique look, unique sound, superb welding lines, a real weight advantage.... BUT - it will totally ruin power output above 6000 - it seems as if it's designed for another bike (very poor fitting below the gearbox) - the adaption of the exhaust manifolds to the heads is very poorly designed. I own one and I know what I'm talking off. Hubert

You should glue a good portion of this insulation stuff to the 5 times fried relais and fuses as well. It shouldn't hurt at least. Hubert

My money is still on a blank piece of the wire harness, although a defect or just dirty phase sensor could also be the problem. Anyway, you've posted the most interesting problem since quite a while now ( I'm not sure whether this helps you a little bit at least ) Hubert

Or you just switch off the sensors (dip switch 2 ON ? - RTFM). But I bet you'll come up with a damaged wire harness, once you'll have looked for that. Probably between relais and injectors. At low loads they're on only for milliseconds, producing only very short shortages, nevertheless enough to fugg up the ECU. At higher loads the fuse finally sees enough energy to pop and make an end to all that. Everything else makes no sense to me. It's an interesting question how the ECU will react on such a massive and regular noise. Hubert

Those sparkplugs are looking as if the engine runs rich enough. I wouldn't buy a Power Commander either. I know nobody here in Germany who uses this PC, nevertheless nearly all of those guys have open exhausts, rubber nozzles removed and cut open airboxes and well running V11 engines. This PC is a very typical US thingie. Hubert

order one at Agostini. It won't cost much postage, it's a small part. Hubert

15V is ok for a Hawker, the more as you're pobably not always running your engine at 6000 and above that. Read what is printed on the batterie's label. Hubert

I think you've already spent enough money on this bike. It ran well before you gave it to TLM. I can't imagine of how much the bloke one must be to "synchronise" for one complete hour and then finally give up. They claim to be pros, they have an Axone, they have the connectors and cables. And of course they should have the experience to see after at least 10 minutes if something is really wrong with a bike. Did he flash your ECU with the latest OEM software/mapping. At least this should have been done I say. Get the TPS properly set, the TBs properly synched, the lastest mapping flashed down to the ecu and then mount whatever exhaust you like. There's absolutely no need to go and pay for an expensive custom mapping just to make the bike idle stable and run without coughing. That's really one of the more interesting threads I could read for the last weeks. Hubert

You're sure you had the right answer to the question? Hubert

This is not fun, these were answers. But I was wrong, the answers should be: No/No - Perhaps - No Hubert

No/Yes - No/Yes - No hUBeRT

Make a circular cut on half height, use a thin metal saw, remove carefully all the little chips which have fallen inside and now stick to the magneto, then do the repair which you think it's appropriate. When finished, glue the two halfs together again. Aluminium tape is probably the best material for this step. Search this forum, it's been explained severall times already. Hubert

Could you provide a picture of what they've repaired/soldered? That would be most welcome on my side, thx Hubert

To speak in MyEcu figures: 60 engine off - 56 engine running. I see no problem here. I think the plate gets sucked, on the other hand it then should be blown open when the engine pops. That's not the case either. Why don't you just measure the 5V support to the TPS. As long as this is stable it's just a mechanical problem. Measure these 5V to the battery ground and then compare this to a measurement between 5V and ECU ground (cable at TPS), engine on and off both times. This should give you more correct answers. Hubert

No need to change the working alternator, I think, but remove the rust before reassembly. Iron oxides have a remarkable bigger volume than pure steel. Maybe that some suitable antirust primer could further improve the situation under salty conditions. When I tore apart the clutch of my 750S the first time, those teeth were only half of what they were when new, and the clutch was still working OK. Hubert