luhbo

So it's me to say sorry. I've got that one wrong then. Hubert

This picture lies! I followed the link, these are japanese people giving size to the shaft. Hubert

We will get a similar review next weekend in MOTORRAD. They'll review naked bikes, so not only the Bonneville will be compared to it, also the Honda 1300 and other "things" of this kind will be part of the comparison. Hubert

Yes, why not?? It's the stuff that makes steam locos move. Hubert

No, in my eyes it's wrong what Greg says. The picture shows clearly that the wear is on the driving side of the teeth, not on the braking side. Also the most excessive wear can be seen where the rear clutch plate engages. This could be caused by the fact that only one friction plate was working properly. If it was my bike I think I would just reassemble the whole thing (with new friction plates of course) and take the summer easy. Hubert

Mal, do you ride the bike also in winter, on salty wet roads? It looks as if excessive rust has busted this ring Hubert

I'm quite sure that it was only water resp. steam/vapor. The difference to smoke is, that once the smoke is out, something has quit working. Nevertheless, you could check the yellow cables coming out of the alternator. These end in rather cheap connectors somewhere below the stearing head, way too cheap for the load they have to bear. I could think of a scenario, where rain, mud and heavy amps could drive them right over their limits. So it could have been smoke as well, unfortunately. Check them. Hubert

I think you could give it a try. It sounds as if your goose was just boiling. Hubert

That was me, when I remember right. @ryan You've got me wrong, I'm afraid. I totaly agree with what you've written. And to make clear what 60 Watts mean, some might not have thought about such things, just touch a "burning" 60 Watt bulb. It's much less probably, 60 Watts could melt down the whole fuse holder I guess. Hubert

Nice figures, Ryan. 62 Watts - anybody out there willing to touch a 62 Watt bulb? Probably not. The only solution for those who need one would be an electronic fuse. Such a device works nearly lossless, alas it's all but cheap. Hubert

This is only partially so? About 1/3 or 1/2 of the isolator dome? Like black shiny lacquer? Then it is a normal thing. I don't know why exactly, but I could see this on all the Guzzis I had so far. BTW, if your bike runs well and strong, as you've mentioned, why the heck you thought you needed this PC stuff? Good marketing talk? Hubert

I wouldn't be too surprised if you was the only one who uses this progie, David. Hubert

You've pumped a couple of times? Hubert

I've seen this 'hiccup' reported before. I think it was the developer of tuneboy who spoke about it, but that was quite some time ago now, you know. Hubert

That's a good write up, Davey, exactly the same what I think. I'm quite confident the bike will sell as good as they expect. This 750 small block runs so smooth, no valve tickering, really elegant I'd say. This and its in fact pretty styling will find its market. Maybe not on this forum, but who knows. Besides that, have you ever heard a Breva 750 equipped with the typical italian aftermarket exhaust? At least 75 php! Hubert

Ferank, you've only 3 posts so far, you've a very nice bike, in very good condition, well runnig also, I suppose, so take this very last chance and leave everything as it is. Especially leave this and other forums As mentioned, you only have 3 posts so far and they already have started drowning you in ECU, TPS and PCIII threads. Run and hope you can hide. Hubert

Guess how I came to the hint with the welded nut In fact there is no need to remove this part unless you want to check and lube the cush drive. Do they really say the cush drive cover should be removed if one needs to change the bearings? Funny. I haven't checked this yet. Hubert BTW, it may have sounded a bit rude. That was not the intention.

Weld a hexagon nut on the rest of the bolts. The heat will loosen the glue and then you can easily screw it out. Next time you better look into some manual before you destroy something. There's no need to disassemble the whole bike just for changing the bearings. Hubert

Sorry, I don't have exact and reliable specs for the ecu, but you've bought the probably best looking and even better sounding exhaust for the V11 available. The ecu mapping is matching the cans, it's normaly sold as a bundle, the Titanium Kit (sic!) Enjoy it! Hubert

He does! He shot your avatar as well, at least there you look as brittle as your bike does What do you think a poster sized copy of it (the bike) would cost me? Hubert

Who cares. She's one living. Nice find, Tom Luhbo

Yes, for Skeeve. At first glance I thought they haven't really met the center when they drilled the rocker arm, but now it makes more sense. More sense to put the same question again. This offset is quite large. If you could be so gentle and generously take two other pictures, this time aligned to the rocker arm's axis, then things would become a bit clearer I guess. First shot - valves closed; second shot - valves open. On the first picture the bucket should be hanging over one side, on the second one now the bucket should hang over the other side. Now one other question is: what makes more miles per hour, the buckets or the whole bike? Is there a critical bucket speed? BTW, you've seen Stefan Raab speeding a wok down a bobsleigh run? http://fr.youtube.com/watch?v=mH-aMpLnVgY Critical wok speed was around 75 km/h Hubert

I found this picture, Skeeve, to refresh your memories: It's a bit small, but colourful, and it shows that you were right with the overall arrangement. More pictures here: Technolab Hubert

Could it work as indicated on this picture? Why is this offset there? Is it a manufacturing problem or more a photographer's thing? If you talk about Beetles: are you sure that the adjusterscrews were placed at the valve shafts? I think it was the same principle as on every other push rod driven engine. Simple question: how would the pushrods be fixed/centered without this ball joint? Hubert

You should have deleted the second picture as well. It's awfull. I'm curious how long the valves, the guides and seats will last. I hope I still haven't understood completely this concept, but to me it looks as if the adjuster screw balls will not only move the valves up and down, but also to and fro. Tell me I'm wrong. Hubert