-
Posts
2,711 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
30
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Community Map
Everything posted by luhbo
-
I once had cracks in these rubber manifolds, did not want to believe it, then had to once I could already hear the air popping through the cracks. The symptoms were the same, some times normal idling, then a sudden backfire with the engine nearly dying, then sometimes the idle higher than normal and so on. It sounded a bit like the tweet you get when your exhaust manifold has came loose. Hubert
-
I see, you're a novice. Maybe this helps: Hubert
-
This now sounds different to "running rough", even to an English native speaker, ....NOT? Anyway, try to check the compression of the engine and then please post the result. This would be interesting to probably all of us. Hubert
-
Could you explain this, please? Does it mean, with the same equipement, means inlet - outlet, I have the choice between top end or midrange power? Hubert
-
The fork diameter might be slightly different, I suppose. Hubert
-
Pete, basically your correct with most of your statements. The Guzzi engine has not that many parts as others may have, and there are a lot of non professional wrenchers out there who had their engine open and after that these engines still worked or maybe also worked again. But that's not the point. Opening an engine is risky. You can missmatch parts, tear bolts, damage bearings, sealing surfaces and so on. Not to talk of damage done to the frame laquer or problems with the correct harness reassembly. Probably all of us have experienced nuts and bolts, maybe parts even, that either have vanished or are suddenly somewhat surplus. The point is, that a skilled mechanic as you tend to be one should be a bit more shy to tell everybody "Go and tear it apart. It's fun and easy". Especially not if you don't know the people you're writing to. Tell him to check the compression for instance. Tell him to look for a dealer that may plug the bike to a diagnostics computer etc. etc. Hubert
-
Foxy, chips in he sump mean nothing, believe it! Engines don't play dead, they are dead or they are doing their job. Worn big ends were noisy, so noisy you shoud not have any doubts whether they're worn or not. At all they would not cause the engine to behave as strange as you've written. And big ends don't throw chips. If this engine's inside never saw light so far it's quite likely that these chips still are the genuine italian factory chips these bikes are delivered with. Really no reason to worry about. Just clean and remount the sump and ask someone in your neighbourhood who knows how motorcycles and engines work what could be wrong with the bike's electrics. You've checked the sensors? The fuel pump? How many miles has the engine run now? If less than 30.000 or 40.000 it's as good as new. Besides that, the Guzzi engine may be built like a tank, don't know how tanks are built, but regardless how many parts it has or not has: if you don't have a solid mechanical background - don't open it DIY. All this tattle about tanks and "straight simple" and whatever nonsense more is the main reason for most of the stories about unreliable Guzzis. Hubert
-
Exactly! All my mechanics life I've never seen one of those filters come loose. And there were situations when I really wished the damn thing would finally give up and come loose The risk of harm for a engine caused by a loose and lousy idiot clamp is way bigger, believe me! On the other hand, those roper plated fellows of course need such a gimmick, no doubt about that. It's the sort of pros that want a torque table to change an indicator bulb, just to feel save Hubert
-
Although this curve is quite flat in the interesting area and although this guy seems to say that such a curve would be typical for all engines, well, nevertheless I've seen a lot of very sophisticated looking 3D spark maps with a lot of peaks and a lot of strange looking ditches. The main thing in this document is that the spark advance should be choosen to achieve the max. pressure at around 15° after TDC and that such a ion sensing device is capable to make sure this is the case, regardless whether the engine runs lean or rich or even gets fed with water. The benefits of such a system should be beyond any discussion, I think. Hubert
-
Indeed. Thank you. Quite interesting in my eyes is this graph: showing that there is quite a broad window for the optimal spark advance value - thus puting into question the advantage of an ion sensing system, compared to the work an implementation would mean. Hubert
-
But the fishy smell comes perfectly matched, inside alas. Hubert
-
Now when I think over this hoseclamp oil filter security solution again I think this could indeed be an experiment worth considering. But, I once learned this business working on MAN lorries and at the times then we used to treat most nuts and bolts with the help of steel tubes of at least 1,50 meters. Probably most of you already have got my point at once: to fix the clamp properly, what torque do you hose clamp gurus recommend? I mean, an oil filter coming loose is indeed a bad thing, so this hose clamp has a lot of responsibility to bear on its screw. A little to less torque and the clamp will slit down, a little too much and the tightening screw might jump over the punched grid fence. Can anybody of you give some good advice herefore? Any special tools or so? Is there any risk to damage the filter housing? What will happen if my dealer forgets that a safety clamp is installed? Will he screw up the whole thing if he uses a 1,50m tube to loosen the filter next time? Oh dear... Hubert
-
In order to give you a shift from the now must be tired right hand to the still fresh left one - have you ever thought of using and monitoring a pressure sensor in your engines? I think they exist in spark plug form, just don't know how to get one of them. They could be all what we need. Of course all pondering about thread widths, thread directions, best locations and so on would become useless, alas, but as the days already start to become noticeable longer, that would not necessarily mean a disadvantage, would it? Hubert
-
1200 Sport tested in Bike magazine
luhbo replied to Guzzirider's topic in Special place for banter and conversation
The V7 Sport was rated 72 hp sometimes then. 52 also could be found, so this could be some sort of heritage. The V11 was much better, nevertheless. That's the second test to show this lack of power. The first was done somewhere in Spain, same bad result, even with a racing exhaust mounted. Hubert -
The same to you guys over there from over here.... Hubert
-
You'd be the perfect candidate for the first V7 Classic - once they've brought them over. Hubert
-
You can't buy he new ones already, can you? Hubert
-
While you are still planning: why not code this for a PPC? Hubert
-
RPM and throttle angle. These simple bike ecus we use are called Alpha/n-systems.
-
Anyway, to get an optimised map (spark and fuel) within a fair amount of cycles/tries on the road you'd need a possibility to store acceleration over n and alpha. Otherwise I think the values would just be interesting. Hubert
-
I think I remember that N (from NOx) does react with O² and other elements only under very high pressure and very high temperatures. This would mean optimal combustion at maximum NOx concentration. On the other hand optimal combustion (and) at the right time should not give the highest exhaust gas temperature. In fact it should then be relatively low. Nogbad is the pro on this field, what does he say? Hubert
-
That makes no sense! At closed throttle most of the air/oxygen in the exhaust is coming from the back end, furthermore you don't really have a working combustion in this situation. If you now try to achieve a whatever AFR you'll need LOTs of fuel. BTW, advancing the spark to 50° helps to prevent poping with throttle closed. @ Dave e.a.: running an engine leaner or richer always needs a different spark advance. As a matter of fact the PChwatever is not able to alter the spark advance - so I'd ignore this thing in this thread. Thanks. Hubert
-
Bloody amateur photographer! There were around at least two more sisters of her, sitting in the background. Now the question is: would they do as well? Hubert
-
Ah, thanks. Now I can see the light! Hubert
-
I'd say roller bearings are only spinning as long as you hold them in your hand or have them stuck on a finger. Somtimes they spin when built in, then the inner ring would spin on its seat. It's a very bad situation and usually caused by improper tolerances between shaft and bearing. Hubert