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Don't know what exactly I compared. Wayne sent me 3 maps, one OEM, one later OEM and one based on the dump I pulled from a Ti ECU, ofcourse also changed into the shown format. We must believe that these maps are what they've been sold for, but then - all three show nearly identical summed up values. Reading this, keep also in mind that I did this three or more years ago. Probably, but this definitely will not be the end of all AFR references. The O2 probe in closed loop (in fact closed loop is something different, strictly speaking) will still give good enough results to make a perfectly running bike! That's my experience at least, please no theory bashing here. Hubert

Use a strip of glassfibre and epoxy. Tape is nonsense because you have to screw the whole plastic cover to the lower part of the tach housing, at least on the naked KRs. Hubert

I did such a comparison. The result was that both maps are more less identical. On the first sight they look different. You must multiply the given value in the main fuel map with some strange value coming from Wayne, after that you add the correction values for oil/air temp and ambient pressure and come out with a map, as already mentioned, more or less identical to the one shown on the first picture. So, if you copy values from one map into another one, you must make sure that you copy all sub maps. I mentioned in another thread already that in my eyes the whole TuneEdit thing is a bit a suspect thing. Anyway, fuel maps are not important. Use a WB O2 probe and you'll come out with a very usable map for your specific bike. The important part of the game is the spark advance. This is where you gain or lose torque, as Ernst eg. e.a. have posted here. Hubert

...showing a legendary rock band. But life? This reunion bullshit just makes people sad. "F*#k everybody over 30, aah, oops, over 70!". Thanks a lot. Hubert

Let me add that the earlier Veglias found on the short frame KRs are built up different. Different electronics. They usually just stop working and in most cases it's not because of a broken connection or wire. And: the internals of a Tach or Speedo might be magnetic, so make sure that no metal chips and flakes get inside. Hubert

You're comming close to the point now. As I've understood the docs that came with my Hawker also this tiny little electronic wonder shown on one of the pix above will in no way be able to treat a Hawker right. The correct way to charge a partially empty Hawker was to do this really fast, with really high current, and then leave it alone. 0.6 or 1Amp is not what I'm talking off. Give her 5, 15, 40 - there is no limit set for charging current - and that's it. Everything else is just shortening its expectable lifetime. If you don't have such an expensive professional automatic charging device, then use a cheap 10A automotive unit and watch the voltage. Stand beside your expensive Hawker and watch the voltage while you charge it! As soon as the voltage goes over 14,7 it's fully charged and can be stored in a cool, dry and dark place for at least one year without risking any damage for it. The original OEM version that came with my V11 was good for 6 years. Only the last year it needed recharging sometimes, because of a long life, a bad starter and a cracked housing with a remarkable loss of acid/water. Hubert

For bikes of noblesse like the one above there is only one brand name left on the italian market.

Probably. The trick is to make the ecu send the code, assumed there is something stored that could be sent. And then, what for? The only thing that could be helpfull was a tool that would allow you to change the idle CO settings. A LED is surely not that thing. Hubert

Yes, indeed. Thank you, Ernst. That was one of the more interesting graphs, also for me. It seems that UltiMap is also not the programm I would go for. What is the problem to read the map of any Weber ecu and present its values in a readable or at least comparable form? When I got you right, then Ultimate also can not show what values your neighbour is using, right? Hubert

I'd not buy TuneBoy again. - As the WM15 has no internal series number, Wayne prefers to flash his own code into the ROM- point one. - The software comes without any really usable documentation. It gives you a lot of possibilities of maps that you can change then, but without documentation this is not really fun. I tried to get these informations directly from Wayne via eMail, this was not really fun either! - point two. - it is not possible to read other ROMS with this software (maybe this was a request of some professional tuners ) - point three - as long as it is not possible with this software to adjust the idle mixture or to do any tests it's just crepleware. Wayne promisses to make it ready for some years now. Who knows how long the 15M will be sold? - point four. - As mentioned above- it can not read and interpret the ROM of your ecu. You'll get the cable, you'll have to make a hexdump, send this to Wayne, he'll translate this into his own format and send it back and only now you can download this software to your ecu. But now the fun part begins - you will have to connect the entire bike to the internet to get the necessary code that makes the whole system working - that's not what I call userfriendly. Ofcourse you are sure, that the code you've got from Wayne is exactly the code that you've sent to him. - point five - There are working solutions available. Maybe Ernst from A. can post his experiencies with the software he has. It was not too expensive to be not a good alternative to TuneEdit, I assume. - point six Hubert

Velf, buy one if you are interested. There are enough people around here and elsewhere to help you, just in case, you know The My15M is an absolutely elegant and most skillfull solution for those who want their EFI system transparent and open. The fuel economy is satisfying (around 5.3 l/100km). All is as it should be, I'd say. As if the bike had carbs, maybe. Smooth cornering with revs going down to 2000, then linear accelleration 'till 8000 and above, should I feel the urgent need to act the proll. A software update for your OEM unit, a good mechanic that is able to adjust the flaps properly and also the valves, will most likely have the same effect on the perceived overall driveability. The difference is, you will never get an insight how and why it works. This is why I am so happy with my My15M (with Optimiser and wideband O2 probe) If you are not willing to invest into an Optimiser and a wideband probe, then the My15M won't show it's true potential, that should be mentioned I think. Hubert

Yes, Dan, a modern system can do such things, especially in cars that are operated most of the time in a more or less static load and rpm range.

The bikes you mention, have they wideband sensors fitted? Probably not. A standard sensor will not allow an optimisation of the maps. They don't deliver the signal an ecu would need for such a purpose. All they know is rich or lean, nothing technically usable inbetween. Also they are not at all fast enough. All these probes can do is to keep the AFR around 14.7 and this only under certain conditions. Do you know what type of sensor the bikes you've mentioned use? Hubert

Closed loop or not, narrow band sensors switch at lambda=1 and this is not the best value for driveability and power output, so there is probably no autocorrection function implemented. It can't work. Hubert

I have one as well, since autumn 2004 if I remember right. 20,000km without any problems. This autumn I finally switched to a Mk2, the actual version is Mk3 as you probably know. I use it in combination with a WBO2 sensor unit. I like it. Hubert

Don't remember, but also don't remember any surprises as "ah, look - that's the trick". Always keep in mind, that probably all what's around here about the Ti-map is based on this first posting we've done. I never saw the map coming out of my ecu. If you get Wayne's software, the software only makes an image of the ecu, you have to send this to Wayne and he sends back another image to be downloaded to this one particular ecu. Next time you connect your ecu you'll get maps on the screen, but all the values seem to be transformed to fit the requirements of Tuneboy/TuneEdit. Hubert

I once bought a TuneEdit promo pack from Wayne McDonald and he delivered a Ti-map with it as well as two other maps coming from some other V11. The Ti map looked sort of photoshoped compared to one of the other two, the second V11 standard map looked quite the same as the Ti did. This was some years ago now, and I'm not sure what was what. I never really used the Tune Edit software, cause it was slow, it had and still has no option to change the O2, came without any usefull documentation and above all Wayne was not really willing to share his knowledge of how things work in these maps. You have an idle section e.g., but what is this for and so on. In the ecu thread dave and I have posted different pictures of what the maps look. Hubert

The sticker is laying separately in the box somewhere. Check the plastic bags. You can probably take every WM15 that comes handy and flash it with the approriate software to turn it into a Titanium unit. Hubert

I can't believe it. You know the saying: If all else fails - read the fucking manual! ?

No, they do not write that the TPS should be adjusted!! They give a perfect description of how the throttle bodies, the blades, should be tuned, step for step and at least in a very clear and pointed Italian. What it says is that in case you're not able to tune things right it might be neccessary to check the TPS baseline setting and bring it eventually back to the correct value. A TPS is nothing that can be adjusted. It knows only one correct position, given in the manual. It's just a replacement for Bernouille's Law, and as such it is not subject to adjusting to whatever needs. Try to see it this way. BTW, what the manual also says is that it might be neccessary to adjust the CO value. For this you need to go to a shop that has the appropriate tools (software). Hubert Never!

Go and get you one, if you're looking for a bike you do not only ride. Hubert

TPS are an important product line of the company I'm working for. All the other information you want to see is available here on this forum, just do a search, or make the whole long way through the ECU thread. You might find usefull also this link, the same as previously posted not only once: CTS Corporation Hubert

Think of what you've written here. In the map you can only see the amount of injected fuel, or, even more correct, the basis for the pulsewidth calculation at this map point. You cannot see any sign of how much air is delivered to the engine at this point (depending on balancing, exhaust, airbox size/shape and many more). Even a wideband O2 sensor can't give a 100% correct answer to the question of how much fuel gets correctly burned and how much of it gets lost. And before we forget mentioning it: of course the PF3 and the PF4 are different sensors. They may be cheap (in production), but such a difference is never caused just by tolerances. Hubert

Now, Orson, what did he want?

Well, I think the trick was not only the tennis ball, also the smile looked important. This could make for a good youtube entry, indeed Hubert